DIY water system forced drain down (1 Viewer)

[Techno]

After investigating a branded drain down system I discovered it would cost me £54 for the kit to do European motorhomes with flexible pipework

So I made my own for about £16 :Cool:

 

[chaser]

After investigating a branded drain down system I discovered it would cost me £54 for the kit to do European motorhomes with flexible pipework

Have somthing very similar on the overflow on the water tank , used to start off with a full tank but when we got to site, found a large amount of it had swilkered out of the overflow so got a garden inline hose pipe tap at pound land and put it on the overflow pipe because if you block it up you get blowback and difficulty filling , so turn it on till the tank is full then turn it off, result, full tank when you park up:thumb::thumb::thumb:

 

[Techno]

Home made inflater from bicycle inner tube

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[mick noe]

Mr techno more pics and instuctions please impressed with you improvisations so far:thumb:

 

[Techno]

Just watch the appropriate video at Floe

 

[Techno]

I've been reliably informed that the schrader valve will be happy to be in water permanently and thus the black isolation valve is not needed at all!
Conclusion........... cheaper yet!!

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Reallyretired]

I just blow down the shower hose after gravity has done its work, seems to do the trick.

 

[Techno]

For you yes

 

[TheBig1]

Mr techno more pics and instuctions please impressed with you improvisations so far:thumb:

its a very simple principle. you cut into the cold water supply pipe from the tank. then plumb in a valve followed by a Tee piece. on the branch of the Tee fit a schraeder tyre type valve.

to use, drain down as usual, then turn off valve and put an airline or footpump onto the new tyre valve and blow any residual water out of an open tap ....make sure a tap is open before blowing air with anything like an airline to avoid damage. when no more water comes out the taps take of airline and open the new isolator for the tank

if you dont want to or cant fit an isolator valve, a non return valve will work just as well and does not require you to turn on or off. personally i would fit 2 non returns, one from the tank and one on the branch of the Tee to prevent pressure building up on the tyre valve or the rubber perishing due to being constantly in water

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[JockandRita]

I just blow down the shower hose after gravity has done its work, seems to do the trick.

For you yes

And for us us too Andy. :thumb:

In 25 years of caravan and MH ownership, the only problem we've had as a result of frost damage, is to the flush solenoid built in to the Thetford bowl, in what was considered to be the hardest winter since 1963. It was a bu##er to replace too. :Sad:

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[Techno]

Well I gave it a wizz today and I'm impressed, Despite my usual drain down it found at least a pint in the pipes

It's great for checking for leaks before filling with water too :thumb:

Having proven it I now just leave the compressor running as long as there is one tap open all the time i.e open the second tap before closing the first. Most water came out of the pipe to the garage shower.

 

[Techno]

By request
I bought the T here
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/320817841...eName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

The Isolation valve here
Broken Link Removed

The schraeder adapter I made so just copy

Obviously choose the correct sizes to suit your van! e.g. my T is 12mm and 3/4 BSP to suit the tap connector/schraeder

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Techno]

All clipped and permanent now

 

[jezport]

Looking at this, does it leave the pump and its strainer at the isolated side of this system?
Will water not be left in the pump and strainer?

 

[Techno]

No
It comes from the tank to the red tap shut off valve then to the Schraeder then the filter pump and pipework

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[jezport]

No
It comes from the tank to the red tap shut off valve then to the Schraeder then the filter pump and pipework

Is the pump OK with air being pushed through it.
Would it not do the same job but with less bits if you just put an air line onto the end of the water pick up in the tank through the inspection cover?

 

[Techno]

The pump is 20 psi rated wet or dry.
Question 2 why don't you try

 

[jezport]

I've not had a problem with draining down, but if Im bored I may give it a go.
Is the pump OK with the pressure coming from the wrong side though?

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Techno]

If you re read what I said it isn't coming from the wrong side oh:

 

[jezport]

If you re read what I said it isn't coming from the wrong side oh:

Yes. But you are forcing 15psi through the pump from the tank side which is iusually at no pressure. That's what I mean when I say the wrong side.

 

[Techno]

Yes Floe do that too

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Techno]

http://www.keepfloeing.com/products-motorhome.html Watch the video if you can stay awake through it :Sad:

 

[bunter492]

or push out both ways using

Broken Link Removed

 

[JockandRita]

or push out both ways using

Broken Link Removed

Which part of the Reich or Truma water system, would you be able to attach that to?
Removal of the pump from the tank outlet pipe perhaps? I can't focus in enough on the magazine image, to be able to make head or tail of it.

Cheers,

Jock.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[bunter492]

On the vans I have used the pump connector (in and out) is a 1/2 (BSP) thread. So its a case of simply unscrewing the side that goes off to the taps and heater and screwing in the connector and then using a pump or mini tyre compressor to pressurize . This may help - its the article

 

[John and Jo]

I like the look but with the Techno Andy super funk system you can leave it all in place I assume. Less faffin.

 

[bunter492]

Wow - new to this forum and some great stuff here. Agreed a system left in place is preferable but some people do not like cutting into the plumbing - especially if the MH is new / under warranty - a dealer may try to wriggle out of a repair if they see bolt ons and could blame a pressurization for another unrelated leak) or tap fault --- so an (undetectable) quick unscrew one side of the pump, connect up using ebay adapter and drain then restore is a useful option imo. That said - I will still probably fit a permanent system in my new Rio 340 when it gets delivered in a few weeks - just need to check the dealer is cool with it. Just sourced all the parts for a fraction of the cost of a commercial kit too.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Daveo2006]

After investigating a branded drain down system I discovered it would cost me £54 for the kit to do European motorhomes with flexible pipework

So I made my own for about £16 :Cool:

Is the drain off going to be alright after the pump as it will decrease the diameter of the pipework? What i mean is would this affect the workings of the pump?
Sorry just read Jetport posted similar question.

 

[Daveo2006]

Ive been looking at those floe kits and they are a bit pricey for what they are.

 

[bunter492]

spot on Dave -bottom line is its just a schrader valve on the end of some hose fittings - let me grab my bits together and i will take a pic and upload - I may help you out

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}