Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear Brake Problem (1 Viewer)

[dazzer]

Hope someone on here can help me with this one.

Just took our 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee to have new brake discs and pads all round (the old discs were warped and worn). Garage did the job, paid them and took the car home.

When I got it home the rear brakes were smoking and extremely hot. Took it back to the garage who have had it all day and replaced a pipe they said was perished and may not have been alowing the fluid to run back (I thought it sounded like bull oh: as well!!!).

Anyway took it for a little drive and then stopped and checked...all ok :thumb:.

Then went for a longer drive and when I got home same thing smoking, very hot rear brakes .

Anyone got any idea what the garage have done to my car?? Apart from the worn/warped discs the brake have always been ok and never overheated before. Need to get this sorted as we are going to France on Sunday to see some friends

Thanks as always in advance :thumb:

 

[Road Runner]

Cant help but had one till recently and brakes were an issue.

 

[pappajohn]

definately something wrong......

were the new pads/discs original manufacturer parts or did they manage to source them from a motor factors?

my advise would be to get the brakes smokin' then immediately, and cautiously, take it back to the garage and insist someone take a look then.

insist they change them again once the problem is resolved as the discs and pads will now be glazed and wont be as efficient as they should be.

could also be the pistons arent retracting properly if they were rusted due to spending a long time expanded with thin pads or the load compensator valve could be sticking on the back axle.

Vauxhalls were a bugger for warping new discs if they got to hot when new.

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[laneside]

Laneside

Hi

Had very similar problem with a Ford Explorer a while back, its a fair chance that it is getting ready for new brake calipers.

This doesn't always show with part worn pads, it only shows when pistons are pushed all the way back to accomodate the new obviously thicker pads and the very outer edge of pistons are pitted or corroded. They come out under the high pressure of braking but will not relax all the way back in.

Alan

 

[Dodgey]

Sticking calipers sounds plausible, some Jeeps are known for caliper issues, usually fronts, but I'm not so familiar with the later ones.

Worth a good google, I have a niggly feeling I've read of these exact simptoms somewhere before, usefully without obviously reading the resultoh:

 

[dazzer]

Its back to the garage today they have had the calipers off again and ive inspected them and in all honesty they look fine, no signs of scoring or corrosion and the cylinders go in and out really easily. The garage has spoken to Jeep main dealer and they think it is a fault with the master cylinder (they have sold 143 of them in the last 12 months!!!) so we are now waiting for a master cylinder to come from Chrysler (tomorrow am delivery!!) to find out if that fettles it.

Bloody annoying though I only sent it in to be done as there was a slight judder when braking hard and thought it would be good to get it sorted before we head off to France oh: Wish id left the bloody thing alone :Angry:

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[mgriffico]

Hi,
Did the master cylinder replacement solve your problem?
I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee and have been living with the same problem for well over a year now.
My circumstances are exactly the same as yours...after i had all the discs/pads replaced the rear N/S brake can stick on when travelling on longer journeys. I too have changed the flexible hose, taken it back to the garage and am at a loss what to try next.
Any help would be really appreciated.

Mark

 

[rainbow chasers]

Seized Calipers.

The floating rods seize fairly easily, a common problem. They should slide out easily, sometimes they grow in. If you can get them out, replace them -if not new calipers.

The brake lines today on 4x4's are very strong, as they are built to withstand rot and knocking about - this does mean that they will rot on the inside first. This usually becomes noticable when the fluid does not return (imagine a flap of rubber acting as a valve) or the pipe becomes blocked with rotting rubber (black fluid is a sign of internal rotting)

In your case, I would say that the sliding pinds have seized up - meaning the caliper cannot open fully to allow the width required of the new thicker pads.

 

[wivvy's dad]

Holy resurrected threads Batman - this ones over 2 years old.........

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[stcyr]

We had same problem on a Transit lwb van (2001) we had last year ... front caliper seized on. 2 garages said caliper was stuffed. It was actually the flexi-pipe which had rotted inside as mentioned above.
New pipe off ebay, £8, 10 mins to fit it, sorted.
A year after selling the van it's running fine, the problem has not reoccurred.

 

[aba]

when they re bled the system after fitting the pipe if they just pushed the brake pedal to the floor it can damage the seals in the master cylinder and in some cases almost turn them inside out so then they will apply the brakes but not fully return to allow the fluid back thus appearing to be sticking callipers.

 

[rainbow chasers]

Holy resurrected threads Batman - this ones over 2 years old.........

Another poster has resurrected it with a similar problem!

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