12v/240v T4 Komet (1 Viewer)

cheekymole

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just had our first night out in our new camper and think the 240v isn't working but then being new to all this, what do we know!!

Do you have to have the aux battery switched on on the zig panel for the 240v system to work ?
 

aba

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somewhere in the van will be a breaker box similar to whats in a house but smaller this will be fairly close to where the mains plugs into the van make sure these are all switched on.
if they are already on then the problem could be elsewhere like a faulty hook up lead.
 

dshague

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just had our first night out in our new camper and think the 240v isn't working but then being new to all this, what do we know!!

Do you have to have the aux battery switched on on the zig panel for the 240v system to work ?

check your 240v fuse trip is on .check your control /zig panel is on 240v .check the cable is ok wire could have come lose .did you check to see that site hook up had not tripped out .
 
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cheekymole

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somewhere in the van will be a breaker box similar to whats in a house but smaller this will be fairly close to where the mains plugs into the van make sure these are all switched on.
if they are already on then the problem could be elsewhere like a faulty hook up lead.

All the switches were "on" on the breaker box. The were 3 trip switches named "all circuits", "sockets" and "lights, charging, frdige"

The kettle worked so we know the hook-up was ok and "sockets" worked but not sure if the other part was working and that's why we wondered if the aux battery switch needed to be "on" for lights etc to work

Blimey, I'm confusing myself here :Eeek:
You see, with it being our first time we didn't want to put the fridge on and use all the aux power so don't know if it was working or not!!

I'm going to by a UK converter tomotrrow so we can plug in at home to test it all out properly :winky:

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cheekymole

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check your 240v fuse trip is on .check your control /zig panel is on 240v .check the cable is ok wire could have come lose .did you check to see that site hook up had not tripped out .

All trips were on and site hook up had not tripped. From what I can see there are no loose connections

When you say "check your control/zig is on 240v" I don't think there is such a thing???? We have two option rocker switch engine battery or auxillary battery...
 

aba

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the option switch selects which battery you draw power from in most cases and on some panels it also selects which battery is charged by the zig unit although this is rare.

also you dont want to run the fridge on 12 volts as that will very quickly flatten even the biggest batteries.
 
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cheekymole

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the option switch selects which battery you draw power from in most cases and on some panels it also selects which battery is charged by the zig unit although this is rare.

also you dont want to run the fridge on 12 volts as that will very quickly flatten even the biggest batteries.

Thank you. I am trying to establish whether the option needs to be selected to aux battery when hooked up in order for the llighting/fridge etc to work

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callumwa

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All the switches were "on" on the breaker box. The were 3 trip switches named "all circuits", "sockets" and "lights, charging, frdige"

The kettle worked so we know the hook-up was ok and "sockets" worked but not sure if the other part was working and that's why we wondered if the aux battery switch needed to be "on" for lights etc to work

Blimey, I'm confusing myself here :Eeek:
You see, with it being our first time we didn't want to put the fridge on and use all the aux power so don't know if it was working or not!!

I'm going to by a UK converter tomotrrow so we can plug in at home to test it all out properly :winky:

Your first post said you did not know if the 240V was working but you then say you boiled the kettle and your sockets worked so you did have 240V. Now I'm getting confused too. (easily done I know):RollEyes:.

So what actually did not work?
The lights should run off 12V via the battery or charger.

Did you run your fridge at all, and does the fridge not also run on 240V as well as 12V and Gas?

If you are on hook up the fridge should be manually switched to 240V , if it does not have an automatic changeover. As you just got the van it's best to test "Everything" so you know where you stand.

Lights should run off 12V from the aux battery which should be charging as you are on 240V. Sometimes there is a "on/off" switch by the hab door, or you just have to switch it on at the control panel.

:thumb:
 

callumwa

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Thank you. I am trying to establish whether the option needs to be selected to aux battery when hooked up in order for the llighting/fridge etc to work

Did you try to switch it to aux battery, that should give you your lights.

Most fridges only run on 12V when the engine is running. When parked up you will need to run on 240V, or gas if not hooked up.
 
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cheekymole

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Oh no! Now I'm confusing everybody!!!! :Eeek:

I think my best bet would be (as I haven't got a clue and the manual is crap) to buy this UK converter tomorrow and hook up on the drive to test everything out and then come back and talk to you lovely people on here when I know exactly what is/isn't happening :ROFLMAO:

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cheekymole

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Did you try to switch it to aux battery, that should give you your lights.

Most fridges only run on 12V when the engine is running. When parked up you will need to run on 240V, or gas if not hooked up.

Yes the lights worked on aux battery but at the time we didn't know that the lights are only 12 volt and it's the 240v that charges the aux battery rather than the lights running directly off 240v :ROFLMAO:

I'm sure we'll get the hang of it eventually :Blush:
 

callumwa

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Yes the lights worked on aux battery but at the time we didn't know that the lights are only 12 volt and it's the 240v that charges the aux battery rather than the lights running directly off 240v :ROFLMAO:

I'm sure we'll get the hang of it eventually :Blush:

Don't worry, it's a learning process, we have all been there, but this is certainly the place to find friendly help. There is always someone who will help you out with the answer or a fix...

At least you know your lights are working and your 240V sockets are as well.
Just need to try the fridge on gas as well as 240V.


Cheers
Callum
 

pappajohn

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when on hookup all 12v circuits will be powered by your battery charger which doubles as a 12v power supply.

as others have said, the fridge will not work on 12v unless the engine is running as the current drain is rather high and your battery will last but a couple of hours

the problem may be your charger isn't working and the only 12v charge is from the engine when driving.

if you have access to, and know how to use, a multimeter/voltmeter then check the battery voltage at the battery terminals OFF hookup, note the reading (probably around 12.4v) then plug into the hookup.
the voltage should now read around 13.6v if the charger is working.

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cheekymole

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when on hookup all 12v circuits will be powered by your battery charger which doubles as a 12v power supply.

as others have said, the fridge will not work on 12v unless the engine is running as the current drain is rather high and your battery will last but a couple of hours

the problem may be your charger isn't working and the only 12v charge is from the engine when driving.

if you have access to, and know how to use, a multimeter/voltmeter then check the battery voltage at the battery terminals OFF hookup, note the reading (probably around 12.4v) then plug into the hookup.
the voltage should now read around 13.6v if the charger is working.

I will certainly try that tomorrow when I've got a converter. The battery reading today was 11.99V :thumb:
 

pappajohn

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Battery charge state chart .......you should never discharge below 50% or the battery could be damaged if not charged straight away
 

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