Using boat polishes and waxes (1 Viewer)

Oct 25, 2012
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has anyone successfully used boat waxes on the grip sided Motorhomes? Seems to make sense that it would work? Meguiars do a decent range?
 
Dec 12, 2010
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I've done my toilet compartment out with this.(y):LOL:
2018-03-17-12-59-46--1097140396.jpeg

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Chipster

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Yep. Use the one recommended by Frankia. Far outlasts others ive tried including Colinite.
 
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Oct 25, 2012
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I was going to try this

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Charlie

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I use Farecla marine finishes for the grp front of my Hymer. I can’t remember exactly which ones on the linked page and it’s too cold to wander up to the garage at the moment to check; the profile products I think. They work very well.
https://www.farecla.com/product_categories/marine-surface-finishing/

You must be aware each of those polishes varies in cutting ability. Take and use the wrong one and permanent damage can very very easily be done.

All Farecla polishes require water misting while the polishing process takes place. Miss this out and severe permanent damage is likely.
 
Jun 30, 2011
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You must be aware each of those polishes varies in cutting ability. Take and use the wrong one and permanent damage can very very easily be done.

All Farecla polishes require water misting while the polishing process takes place. Miss this out and severe permanent damage is likely.



Good info, what's the best one a novice can use, polish first then wax, without a machine, just cloths. Or is that not possible without a polishing machine and more knowledge?

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Oct 29, 2008
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Good info, what's the best one a novice can use, polish first then wax, without a machine, just cloths. Or is that not possible without a polishing machine and more knowledge?
We use this, and have sold it for many years
Its mild cutting action means that you wont immediately damage paintwork. We also do a resin wax
 
Jun 30, 2011
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We use this, and have sold it for many years
Its mild cutting action means that you wont immediately damage paintwork. We also do a resin wax

Ordered some of your polish Jezport, hopefully its decent stuff will let you know, wife ordered me some colinite 476 yesterday so will use yours first then the colinite.

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Charlie

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Good info, what's the best one a novice can use, polish first then wax, without a machine, just cloths. Or is that not possible without a polishing machine and more knowledge?

The golden rule when polishing especially for a novice is to use the least abrasive cut polish first. Then increase if required.
It’s worth remembering that a low cut polish is safe and will give the desired results it will just take longer. Those of us who know and understand polishes get to know what to use pretty much straight away and for which surfaces. But don’t worry just ask and advice will be gladly given.

There is a thread on polishing machines here on this forum so have a read and again feel free to ask.

Polishing by hand is a wee bit out of date and very arduous. Simple relatively cheap machines will empower you and produce a finish way better than by hand.

None of this is complicated. But the safe approach which I encourage is so much better than potentially causing damage to our expensive vehicles in which we take great pride..
 

Bobby22

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has anyone successfully used boat waxes on the grip sided Motorhomes? Seems to make sense that it would work? Meguiars do a decent range?
Beware, the handbook for my motorhome says not to use polish or wax on the hab area.
I use fenwicks motorhome cleaner and bobby dazzler and don't find i need polish or wax.
 
Jun 30, 2011
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Beware, the handbook for my motorhome says not to use polish or wax on the hab area.
I use fenwicks motorhome cleaner and bobby dazzler and don't find i need polish or wax.


Not heard that one before, wonder if its because it is specially treated by them prior to buying with some sort of polish/wax.

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Bobby22

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image.jpeg
Not heard that one before, wonder if its because it is specially treated by them prior to buying with some sort of polish/wax.

I don't know but i would err on the safe side and follow the book rather than someones opinion.
 
Feb 21, 2016
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View attachment 222944

I don't know but i would err on the safe side and follow the book rather than someones opinion.
I’ve been dithering about,wondering what to clean and wax the van which we bought last year,and there seem to be lots of opinions on this.
Do you think Rapido’s need different treatment from most,and if so,why? With better weather around the corner Im keen to make a start,and was going to use Colinite until I read this thread.
Don’t want to hijack the thread,just asking
 

AXO66

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Use mer high shine shampoo and then mer wax. Seems to work on the metal cab and grp habitation area.

But having read previous posts is it doing any harm?

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Oct 30, 2010
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@Charlie, the front cowl, the bit over the cab, on our Carthago has got very dull and feels as if it is 'chalky'. The van is only 3 years old and is only washed with Autoglym car wash and polished with Autoglym super resin polish. Following your recommendation the whole van has also had a coat of Colinite wax.
Don't know what I have done wrong but I always take great care to keep my vehicles looking good but this is bugging me. The rest of the van looks great.
What do you recommend I use to bring it back to a good shine and to protect it please?

Richard.
 
Jun 30, 2011
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@Charlie, the front cowl, the bit over the cab, on our Carthago has got very dull and feels as if it is 'chalky'. The van is only 3 years old and is only washed with Autoglym car wash and polished with Autoglym super resin polish. Following your recommendation the whole van has also had a coat of Colinite wax.
Don't know what I have done wrong but I always take great care to keep my vehicles looking good but this is bugging me. The rest of the van looks great.
What do you recommend I use to bring it back to a good shine and to protect it please?

Richard.



Autoglym is no good for the GRP fronts on A class vans, it did the same to our Hymer. You need specific RV or Boat polish for GRP although its more complicated than I first thought. Have used the 3M range with decent results but not brilliant but I am a novice at it.
 

Silver-Fox

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I would only use S R P on non Gel coat applications.

If used it still needs a coat of wax to protect the body work.

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Bobby22

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I’ve been dithering about,wondering what to clean and wax the van which we bought last year,and there seem to be lots of opinions on this.
Do you think Rapido’s need different treatment from most,and if so,why? With better weather around the corner Im keen to make a start,and was going to use Colinite until I read this thread.
Don’t want to hijack the thread,just asking
Reading other posts with people using products they get 'recomended' then having chalky or decal problems make me stick to the book. The stuff i use is made for motorhomes and states it is good for all surfaces, if it let me down i might have a case.
What might be good on one gel coat might have a completly different affect on others.

If in doubt get in contact with the manufacturer and do as they tell you.

I had a three year old Swift ( from new ) and never polished or waxed it. It looked like new when i traded it. ( apart from faded dark blue plastic extrusion ). Using only Fenwicks washing products.......i still have the original bottles more than 4 years on.
 

Charlie

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@Charlie, the front cowl, the bit over the cab, on our Carthago has got very dull and feels as if it is 'chalky'. The van is only 3 years old and is only washed with Autoglym car wash and polished with Autoglym super resin polish. Following your recommendation the whole van has also had a coat of Colinite wax.
Don't know what I have done wrong but I always take great care to keep my vehicles looking good but this is bugging me. The rest of the van looks great.
What do you recommend I use to bring it back to a good shine and to protect it please?

Richard.

AutoGlym SRP is one of the lowest cut polishes on the market. So it will take longer and be harder to achieve good results. It’s a polish that is popular with car dealers as it contains fillers which hide swirling marks but not for long.

Try a different polish but still use a low cut one. Have a look on Ebay at the Menzerna range of polishes. Not the cheapest but excellent. I use only Menzerna when polishing. It’s a quality German brand. It maintains cut and is predictable and easy to use.

Edit.
This would be the one you want.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Menzerna...166439&hash=item3d44199c9b:g:b80AAOSw4yRZi4U6

Beware. Always do a test on a panel out of sight before polishing on ALL MH surfaces.
 
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AutoGlym SRP is one of the lowest cut polishes on the market. So it will take longer and be harder to achieve good results. It’s a polish that is popular with car dealers as it contains fillers which hide swirling marks but not for long.

Try a different polish but still use a low cut one. Have a look on Ebay at the Menzerna range of polishes. Not the cheapest but excellent. I use only Menzerna when polishing. It’s a quality German brand. It maintains cut and is predictable and easy to use.

Edit.
This would be the one you want.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Menzerna...166439&hash=item3d44199c9b:g:b80AAOSw4yRZi4U6

Beware. Always do a test on a panel out of sight before polishing on ALL MH surfaces.
Many thanks Charlie.
I assume that is OK for GRP. It is the chalky effect that was worrying me and I was wondering if the gel coat (whatever that is) had been damaged.
If I use the polish you recommend should I just finish it with Colinite wax?

Richard.
PS. After your previous tutorials on vehicle cleaning I have completely changed the way I wash and look after my vehicles. It has only taken about 55 years for me to learn how to wash a car correctly. I always was a slow learner. :D

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cornish boy

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Many thanks Charlie.
I assume that is OK for GRP. It is the chalky effect that was worrying me and I was wondering if the gel coat (whatever that is) had been damaged.
If I use the polish you recommend should I just finish it with Colinite wax?

The chalky residue is pigment from the GRP and is almost always a result of UV damage.

To rectify it needs to be polished to remove the damaged surface and then a wax protective coat used to provide good UV protection.

As for recomending products to use, the simple answer is, I can't, because it completely depends on the type of gelcoat, depth of damage and amount of retification required as to the products I would use.

However, I would use a light grade polish and go over at least twice to bring back a flat surface rather than going near it with a course polish and hitting the crap out of it which will only provide a very short term solution.

GRP needs high quality UV protection and in the marine world it is getting more normal to use technology such as THIS from gtechniq but it can start to add up to some big numbers as the preperation and application is very labour intensive.

Somewhere on here is a thread with some drawings I did to try and explain the UV issues with GRP, I will see if I can find them again.
 

Silver-Fox

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@cornish boy how good is the gtechniq.
I read the blurb about lasting longer etc etc but in your experience what sort of time scale do you get out of them.

I’ve used their products before on interiors but not used exterior products.

Thanks

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cornish boy

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@Silver-Fox To be honest, I rate it as it certainly is so much easier to keep clean and dirt just washes off with no effort.

But....

It is one of those things that you need to go 'all in' with. Its not just the preperation and the application, but buying the wash products and using them as recommended and sorting out any small areas straight away when the coating has been damaged.

In terms of the marine products, lots of people are getting somewhere between 18 to 24 months but what I have been seeing is a distinct yellowing of the gelcoat at around the 18 month period. Mind you, without it the gelcoat will start to yellow at around 9 to 12 months so it is not a probelm as such.

There is quite a lot of work to re-prep the surface again for a new application but I really believe that the benefits outweigh the costs on a yacht (motor or sail) of 50 foot plus.

However, I haven't used it on our motorhome as the GRP is lightly textured rather than smooth and the C1 would be near impossible to apply at the tiny amounts required/stipulated.
 
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The chalky residue is pigment from the GRP and is almost always a result of UV damage.

To rectify it needs to be polished to remove the damaged surface and then a wax protective coat used to provide good UV protection.

As for recomending products to use, the simple answer is, I can't, because it completely depends on the type of gelcoat, depth of damage and amount of retification required as to the products I would use.

However, I would use a light grade polish and go over at least twice to bring back a flat surface rather than going near it with a course polish and hitting the crap out of it which will only provide a very short term solution.

GRP needs high quality UV protection and in the marine world it is getting more normal to use technology such as THIS from gtechniq but it can start to add up to some big numbers as the preperation and application is very labour intensive.

Somewhere on here is a thread with some drawings I did to try and explain the UV issues with GRP, I will see if I can find them again.
Thanks for the info @cornish boy.
The van is only 3 years old and I only use AutoGlym shampoo and polish on it. The front cowl is a bit of a bugger to get at so doesn't get the attention that some other parts get. It has been polished a couple of times with AutoGlym Super Resin Polish and then topped off with their Extra Gloss Protection. I realise that the Gloss Protection isn't a wax and seems to be some sort of spirit base. Could that have damaged the GRP finish?
Would a couple of hand polishes with SRP and finishing with Colinite wax do the trick do you think or do I need something more specialised?

I really do appreciate the advice.
Richard.
 

Silver-Fox

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@cornish boy thanks for the quick reply.
Looks like I’ll stick with what I do at the mo with my vehicles then.

It amazes me how many people get sucked in by the main stealers with their car coat add on and the cost.

Thanks again

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