Who can get me through my MOT?? (1 Viewer)

juliandavies

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Having been off-road on a seasonal for 5 months so I was amazed at how well my Chevy Sea Breeze drove (thanks for all the tips telling me to drive it round regularly etc)...sadly I failed my MOT.
Were they extra strict because it was Croydon Council (Stubbs Mead)?

Here's what it failed for (my comments in CAPS):
1 - Nearside (idler arm) Ball joint has excessive play (PARTS? REPAIR?)
2 - Offside Rear fog lamp missing (HAS NEVER HAD ONE! AND HAS PASSED MOTS FOR MANY YEARS IN THE UK)
3 - Nearside Stop lamp not working (UNACCEPTABLE OF COURSE BUT IT PASSED WITH THIS LAST YEAR - ITS NOT THE BULB OR THE FUSE AND NO-ONE SEEMS TO BE ABLE TO FIX IT!)
4 - Offside front Brake hose excessively damaged (VERY STRANGE - IT LOOKS LIKE SOMEONE HAS CUT A SMALL SLICE ACROSS IT - ARE THESE EASY TO REPLACE?)
5 - Offside brake pipe inadequately clipped (PRETTY FUSSY I THOUGHT - SHOULDNT BE HARD TO CLIP IT UP)
6 - Exhaust emissions carbon monoxide content at idle excessive (HE RECKONED THIS SHOULD BE SORTED WITH SOME TWEAKING)
Advisory items: Nearside and offside Track rod end ball joint has slight play (NOT FAILURE ITEMS)

Two questions for my MHFun gurus:
1 - I'm at Alderstead Heath (Surrey) for 3 weeks now - anyone know anywhere I could get these repairs done near? Any idea how much I might be looking at? Are there any places that might still pass my MOT?
2 - Never even considered this before but how outrageous is it to keep moving from site to site every 3 weeks untaxed/MOTd? (I EXPECT TO BE TOLD TO NOT BE SUCH A FOOL FOR THIS QUESTION!)

Many thanks in advance
Still gutted it didn't pass! :cry:
Jules
 

JeanLuc

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I can't answer the technical stuff, but don't even think about trying to get it passed by another test station. As I understand it, they are all linked online now and as soon as the next tester inputs your details, they will see that it has just been failed. I stand to be corrected by others with more knowledge, but it seems to me that you have just got to 'bite the bullet' and get the items fixed.

Philip
 

JJ

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Hi Jules... Bad luck with the mot... it is always a nervous time... not up with the American spares/repair scene but some Funster will surely know a sympathetic mechanic/enthusiast.

As for the "other" item... there people who always obey all the rules what ever and others who don't always. In an earlier life I used to run a motorhome on one mot every two years by clever timing of buying the tax disc. I was caught twice without an mot and the police let me off... once when I was stopped and once after the "producer" phase. Once I was fined (£20) (no points)

I always had tax and insurance (and the debate whether you are insured without an mot is still "open" in my mind) but on a practical level, these days the police cars can run a computer check on your number plate in seconds and life is much more risky!!!

Thanks to my current (probably tempory) situation I have been 100% legal for years but I still get all nervous when in the vicinity of the "Boys in Blue"!!!!

JJ

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Fatalhud

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So if I read this right
You want to know where to get a dodgy MOT and you want us to praise you for driving around with no tax, MOT, or insurance that will most likely be null and void

:thumbdown::thumbdown::thumbdown::censored:2

Alan H
 

teensvan

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Hi.

No 2 The fog lamp must be on the O/S to pass UK MOT

No 3 It may be a bad earth connection on the bulb holder clean all connections.

No 4 Yes you can change the pipe but you will have to bleed the brake system.

steve & ann. ------------- teensvan
 

madbluemad

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I agree with JeanLuc, Your fail notification will now be on computer and if you submit it elswhere they will know.

I woudnt drive it on the road until it had been retested and passed. Most police cars on the road today can tell you what you had for breakfast.

My mh failed last year on a broken fog lamp. Less than two weeks after it broke again. I fit a new fog lamp every year just to get through the mot. I know take it off as soon as the mot is done, put it back on next year.

Its difficult to say whether the tester is picky but I doubt it. He has a check list to work to and thats it.

For the amount of bits and pieces wrong, if you cant do it yourself, take it into a garage. Cant the test station garage do it for you ?

Jim
:Smile:

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johng

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repairs dont sound terrible to me... i would do them myself but have no time.
Redhill MOT guys seem to be a nice place to visit, for my old chevy. I dont know how else to put it, it will fail there if there's something wrong, but they tell you to go to hell in such a way you look forward to it :ROFLMAO:

Driving these days without legal stuff.. dont...
 

rainbow chasers

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Firstly - drive it without docs and it will get seized. For a car, this would cost £115 release fee, £12-20 per day storage fee and you will have to get them to MOT it and get it taxed BEFORE it will be released. Then you kust have the court fine/ban for driving without valid docs, which will be around 8 points £250-1000 fine, and possibly ban 6 months- 1 year. You are also an RV i beleive, so this will come under heavy recovery - this will cost alot more...could be anything up to 1k.

That out of the way, the bits needed.

Idler arm - parts can be gained from RV spares, grab a brake pipe while you are at it.

Brake light - probably a bad connector/earth Clean connectors and run an earth wire to a good point and see if it works. If you really cannot suss it out, you can do one of two things.
Firstly, run a temporary repair from the working light by using a couple of lengths of wire. This will them run from the otjer ones' circuit, and as long as it doesn't dim the original light, should be fine for mot purpose.
Second option is to cover the rear lights with gaff tape, and use a trailer board, secured to the rear and plugged into your towing electrics. Assuming they are working, would give you a new set of working rear lights suitable for mot

Fog Lamp - car accessory store - around £5. Bolt to the rear skirt, wire to fog system or on switch - job done.

Insecure brake pipe - cable tie it.

Emissions, wind back the fuel pump 1/2 turn. Make sure the vehicle is ragged to the mot station!! If it has been standing a while, it will need a good clear out. Warm engine and turbo...this may be all that is needed.

It sounds alot, but your only major thing would be the emissions, but they said they will adjust that, so get them to do it! They barke hose may need fiitting too if you are not competant at that - all in it should not cost too much in labour.:thumb:
 
Aug 27, 2009
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Two questions for my MHFun gurus:
1 - I'm at Alderstead Heath (Surrey) for 3 weeks now - anyone know anywhere I could get these repairs done near? Any idea how much I might be looking at? Are there any places that might still pass my MOT?
2 - Never even considered this before but how outrageous is it to keep moving from site to site every 3 weeks untaxed/MOTd? (I EXPECT TO BE TOLD TO NOT BE SUCH A FOOL FOR THIS QUESTION!)Jules

Google has to be your best option, here is one to start.
http://www.yanktanks.co.uk/carpartsales/partsUK.htm

If you go for option 2 then you will end up in a compound with huge release fees and still requiring an mot before it is released. Not as if an RV is low profile.::bigsmile:riving2:

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Geo

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Feel free to get a second opinion/test, it wont pop up its already had a test somewhere else:thumb:
We can not get any info on previous tests without going to look for it
Id be interested to see what figures he quoted on your idling Co fail
Most testers get it wrong on RVs, and apply incorrect test limits:Doh:
Geo
 

Carol

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I am pretty sure (and I m sure someone will correct me if I am not) that the only safe way to drive your RV is to the MOT & Garage you have chosen with a MOT booked in.
That way I think you would be safe, but as already said to many implications to drive it when it has failed and the current one has run out.
 

madbluemad

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I am pretty sure (and I m sure someone will correct me if I am not) that the only safe way to drive your RV is to the MOT & Garage you have chosen with a MOT booked in.
That way I think you would be safe, but as already said to many implications to drive it when it has failed and the current one has run out.

Thats the info that I was given by the DVLA.

Jim
:Smile:
 

pappajohn

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I am pretty sure (and I m sure someone will correct me if I am not) that the only safe way to drive your RV is to the MOT & Garage you have chosen with a MOT booked in.
That way I think you would be safe, but as already said to many implications to drive it when it has failed and the current one has run out.

must be pre-booked and not just turning up 'on spec'

if stopped the police WILL check with the test station and if you should have an accident on route, then you may still be prosecuted for any 'unroadworthy' items.

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Snowbird

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Regarding the brake hose, Change both of them whilst your at it.
These flexihoses are notorious for giving problems when they are over 10 years old.
They coase caliper drag,then NO brakes at all,I have had this happen twice on 2 different RVs.
 

Fatalhud

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must be pre-booked and not just turning up 'on spec'

if stopped the police WILL check with the test station and if you should have an accident on route, then you may still be prosecuted for any 'unroadworthy' items.

I think if you read the post again the original poster has no concern about driving the vehicle just to the MOT station
He finds it amusing that when he moves to a different caravan site every 3 weeks he does so with no tax or MOT:Angry::Angry:

"2 - Never even considered this before but how outrageous is it to keep moving from site to site every 3 weeks untaxed/MOTd? (I EXPECT TO BE TOLD TO NOT BE SUCH A FOOL FOR THIS QUESTION!)"
 

dave newell

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Go ahead, drive your RV with no tax, MOT or insurance between sites every three weeks. When you get caught, which you will, the vehicle can be siezed and crushed, yes CRUSHED!! Unles you're a Itinerant of course?

D.

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ourcampersbeentrashed

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Hi Jules

Redbridge council do mots and repairs. They are excellent and thorough. We dont take our motorhome anywhere else now. They saved us a fortune on our car recently which needed a new sensor fitted.

Never used stubbs mead but used to use LBWF. Our experience is all councils that have MOT stations inspect to the highest of standards. If its wrong they will tell you and especially with anything relating to brakes, none of it is petty - after all no brakes at the right time, means you could end up totalling your mh which you dont want.

Good luck xxxxx
 

American Dream

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Feel free to get a second opinion/test, it wont pop up its already had a test somewhere else:thumb:
We can not get any info on previous tests without going to look for it
Id be interested to see what figures he quoted on your idling Co fail
Most testers get it wrong on RVs, and apply incorrect test limits:Doh:
Geo

Interesting point Geo....

They remarked my idling CO emissions were just over the limit on hydrocarbons....:Eeek:

That is why I'm spending so much time on the ignition. carb calibration and fuel side....:Doh:

Where do they get the reference data from?
 
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juliandavies

juliandavies

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I think if you read the post again the original poster has no concern about driving the vehicle just to the MOT station
He finds it amusing that when he moves to a different caravan site every 3 weeks he does so with no tax or MOT:Angry::Angry:

"2 - Never even considered this before but how outrageous is it to keep moving from site to site every 3 weeks untaxed/MOTd? (I EXPECT TO BE TOLD TO NOT BE SUCH A FOOL FOR THIS QUESTION!)"


easy now - I only asked the question, I havent done it.
I just wanted to gauge the reaction and I see that it would be a highly foolish thing to do (as I suggested it would be)

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juliandavies

juliandavies

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Dec 12, 2008
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Hi Jules

Redbridge council do mots and repairs. They are excellent and thorough. We dont take our motorhome anywhere else now. They saved us a fortune on our car recently which needed a new sensor fitted.

Never used stubbs mead but used to use LBWF. Our experience is all councils that have MOT stations inspect to the highest of standards. If its wrong they will tell you and especially with anything relating to brakes, none of it is petty - after all no brakes at the right time, means you could end up totalling your mh which you dont want.

Good luck xxxxx

many thanks - do you have any contact details - I cant find anything for them on google
 

American Dream

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Interesting point Geo....

They remarked my idling CO emissions were just over the limit on hydrocarbons....:Eeek:

That is why I'm spending so much time on the ignition. carb calibration and fuel side....:Doh:

Where do they get the reference data from?

OK ....Can Anyone answer/help me on this issue?:RollEyes:

What DO I have to do to keep her on the road or do the bodies in question finally get their way and make us Social Lepers ....?

I am entering an era where no-one seems to understand original technology....or really seems to care.

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barnybg

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MOT...looks easy and cheap

Hi mate,thats not a bad failure,stick with them,instead of looking round for another.
The bad lights sound like earthing problems do as suggested,if changing the flexi brake hose, do all, as they are pretty cheap (under a tenner) and the system will only need bleeding the once,so saving money and dodgy brakes,loose flexi,clip back in or cable tie.

Emmisions......diesel or petrol ? first new air filter and clean housing out,secondly if deisel maybe check or renew fuel filter,and add a fuel additive for combating high emmisions ? dont go to a dealer,go to a corner shop/factors.....and not Halfords,expensive.
As suggested,beast it,on the way to the MOT station,get it hot,go down the motorway or dual and blast the cobwebs out ! then as quick as you can,without parking up for ages,straight into MOT,usually they will give you a time to take it in,if it still fails on emmisions,let them tweak it,if they do...
To be honest,you have to spend a little money on upkeep of your home or pride and joy,if done regulary,then it will last and go through many MOT's,when you have time ,paint all underneath with metal paint (cheap if its industrial for factories)better i reckon than that glop,called underseal.
Fog light if working (on wrong side) buy for around a fiver,bolt on otherside to an earth/body,run wires back to otherside original/connect...take out original bulb.
 

American Dream

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All the faults sound easily fixable....

It must be worth it for peace-of-mind and legally driving the vehicle on the road,

Personally, I have got to the point of thinking of fitting a Cat...as it was not original fitment, but tend to run fuel octane booster as she doesn't like our unleaded "super" petrol....So I think that'll destroy the cat in a short space of time.

It should be no prob when I get the lpg tanks in as I have heard there's no emission problem with lpg.

Is that so?She's already got a new air filter and I'm calibrating the carb for best performance/running mixture.

New electronic distributor should help burn the fuel more efficiently and lower those unburnt hydrocarbons that are reading high.

CO is ok apparently.
 
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juliandavies

juliandavies

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The quote has come to a lot more than I expected!!...

I have worked out some approximate costs for the motorhome repairs.
Replace left side steering idler assembly
Replace right side front brake hose and secure pipe.
Supply and fit rear fog lamp and switch and wire up as necessary.
Investigate engine high emissions.
The emissions can be a problem I would suggest replacing the spark plugs and leads first to see if that solves the problem,but it could be more than just that.
Labour to do above work 9 hrs £468.
Parts
idler assembly £289.90
fog lamp £10.95
Switch £5.95
Cable/fuse etc £15
Brake hose £46,75
Brake fluid £9.50
Spark plugs £20.40
Spark plug leads £64.93
Total £931.38.
All costs are plus vat
If we then take the motorhome for mot it would be an addtional £262.00 plus vat.
Gary

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Geo

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I did ask in a previous reply what figures had been given and what criteria was used for the emissins to apply a fail as most testers get it wrong
But you didnt reply so I cant be of any help
you may not have an emission problem or failure and dont need to spend on plugs leads etc
Geo
 
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juliandavies

juliandavies

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Dec 12, 2008
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I did ask in a previous reply what figures had been given and what criteria was used for the emissins to apply a fail as most testers get it wrong
But you didnt reply so I cant be of any help
you may not have an emission problem or failure and dont need to spend on plugs leads etc
Geo

apologies Geo
If I remember I had a figure of 4.2. They do seem like quality testers (being Council run).
I had the spark plugs, air filter, air pump changed at the start of 2009 - I've prob only driven 4000 miles since then.
 

Geo

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apologies Geo
If I remember I had a figure of 4.2. They do seem like quality testers (being Council run).
I had the spark plugs, air filter, air pump changed at the start of 2009 - I've prob only driven 4000 miles since then.
Ok if your figures are correct then your 0.7% over the 3.5 max, depending on year
unless you have a missfire new leads and plugs will add nothing in your favour
What year is your RV? does it have a cat fitted?,are you carb or fuel injected?
Geo

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