Ducato idling too fast (1 Viewer)

Aug 27, 2014
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One that I'm putting up as it may help someone Googling this problem in future.....

Ducato 2.8JTD, suddenly started idling a bit faster than usual - 1000 rpm rather than usual 800-ish. A steady idle. No fault codes when I plugged my reader in, and nothing else was untowards. I was very uneasy though as this happened just after I'd changed the oil pressure switch - maybe a coincidence but had I done something to cause this whilst I was under the van?

Turns out I had. When changing the switch, which is underneath the engine in a very tight spot, I accidentally brushed a spanner against a connection on to the alternator which gave a spark - I didn't think much of it at the time, other than "don't do that again" and that it was a bit dodgy that a live connection to the battery was that exposed.

Anyway, trying to google the symptoms and I came across someone who had their alternator light on the dash on as well as the fast idle. No alternator light for me, but I stuck a multimeter across the battery and realized it wasn't being charged. Turns out the fuse in the bank on top of the positive battery terminal, where the lead from the alternator joins the battery, had blown - so the battery wasn't being charged.

So, if your van is idling a bit faster than usual for no obvious reason - stick a multimeter across the battery terminals and check it's being charged. Not sure why the battery light didn't come on on my van - maybe because the alternator was still working, or the battery voltage hadn't dropped enough yet? I've a battery master that trickle charges it from the leisure battery whilst parked up, and a solar panel that keeps that topped up, so maybe that was why.

New fuse for £1.99 off Ebay (it's not a normal blade fuse) and hopefully all will be well. Oh yes, and a rubber boot ordered to go over the connection where the positive lead joins the alternator, make sure it can't happen again!
 

PeteH

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Not sure why the battery light didn't come on on my van - maybe because the alternator was still working, or the battery voltage hadn't dropped enough yet?

Just a thought have you checked that the "battery" light does come on at start-up?. When normally all the dash lights come on to prove they are OK?. I found the hard way that on a relatively modern vehicle one dash light not lighting is easy to miss!! and is usually a "blown" bulb or led. Ergo not warning!.

Pete
 

GWAYGWAY

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My first Fiesta suddenly started doing that, it was speeding up to run the Aircon, that it did not have. Had to pay a wadful to a Ford Dealer to reset the ECU. Trouble with modern vehicle is that you need the electronic gizmos to rest things.
 
Jul 13, 2008
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Unclamp the battery and slide it towards you so you can get to the +ve connection cover
My leisure battery not charging and fridge not working on 12volt, could it be one of these fuses?

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OP
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Aug 27, 2014
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Just a thought have you checked that the "battery" light does come on at start-up?. When normally all the dash lights come on to prove they are OK?. I found the hard way that on a relatively modern vehicle one dash light not lighting is easy to miss!! and is usually a "blown" bulb or led. Ergo not warning!.

Pete

Yep - battery light comes on when ignition switched on, goes off when engine starts, all normal. That's what makes me think that maybe the van monitors the output at the alternator itself, rather than the battery voltage.

My leisure battery not charging and fridge not working on 12volt, could it be one of these fuses?

I agree with Pete, unlikely if the rest of your leisure circuits such as the interior lights are working OK. It may be the point at which your converter has tapped into the van's power supply though. Easy enough to check the fuses if you've got a multimeter or continuity tester though, so worth a look. They're bolted in but you don't need to remove them to test them.

My first Fiesta suddenly started doing that, it was speeding up to run the Aircon, that it did not have. Had to pay a wadful to a Ford Dealer to reset the ECU. Trouble with modern vehicle is that you need the electronic gizmos to rest things.

I was suspicious of the aircon at first on my van, it has it fitted, but all was OK, revs dropped and rose as usual. Electronic gizmos can be a pain - I've just rebuilt the front brakes on my Audi due to a seized caliper, but I can't do the rear brakes. Why? Electronic parking brake - you not only need the laptop and software to tell the car to retract the brake mechanism all the way in order to change the pads, you also need a gizmo to supply power to the battery to keep it alive during the process - a trickle charger is not enough, lose power and you'll have all sorts of problems apparently. Various internet bodges to get round it but also lots of warnings that they leave the brakes out of adjustment and are dangerous. So, it's off to my friendly independent Audi specialist when they need doing....

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pappajohn

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I'm surprised the revs were high on a JTD.
The idle revs are ECU controlled partly to counteract stalling when a heavy load is first applied to the engine at idle. ...power steering pump, cold engine start up etc or a heavy electrical load....electric aircon etc.
It should keep idle revs at a constant warm idle speed
 

Techno

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I'm surprised the revs were high on a JTD.
The idle revs are ECU controlled partly to counteract stalling when a heavy load is first applied to the engine at idle. ...power steering pump, cold engine start up etc or a heavy electrical load....electric aircon etc.
It should keep idle revs at a constant warm idle speed
The revs go up because the voltage at the ECU is noticeably low. Did the same on my later 3 litre, rise to 1200rpm after a minute followed by the battery warning light
It was regulator failure on mine

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OP
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Aug 27, 2014
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New fuse in for me, all is well, on this bit of the van at least - idle speed back to normal and battery charging nicely. Phew! :)
 
Oct 2, 2014
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I think I may have this problem developing. Yesterday the revs on idle were at 1200 rather than the usual 800. We did about 20 miles and when stopped I turned off and then to level up I turned back on and all was normal. Tried it again this morning on tick over remained steady at 800 rpm.
No battery warning lights or anything. I am hoping yesterday was a one off as I am currently in the Mosel valley. I'd prefer to get back to home first but that's over 2 weeks away, I'm never so lucky. Suspect I might need to visit a Fiat technik somewhere.

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Techno

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May just be the alternator regulator on the way out. Cost me under £20 for one on eBay.
 
Oct 2, 2014
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May just be the alternator regulator on the way out. Cost me under £20 for one on eBay.
Not sure I'll be able to get one here in Germany, I've no idea how to fit it if I did so probably at the mercy of a Fiat specialist but will certainly try to get them to look at that first before the expense of an alternator. Hopefully won't need to (fat chance).
 

Badknee

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Not sure I'll be able to get one here in Germany, I've no idea how to fit it if I did so probably at the mercy of a Fiat specialist but will certainly try to get them to look at that first before the expense of an alternator. Hopefully won't need to (fat chance).
If you can find an auto electrician rather than a main agent it will help the wallet. (y)
 
Oct 29, 2008
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My first Fiesta suddenly started doing that, it was speeding up to run the Aircon, that it did not have. Had to pay a wadful to a Ford Dealer to reset the ECU. Trouble with modern vehicle is that you need the electronic gizmos to rest things.
You were ripped off. The older ford's ecus can be reset by disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes.
 
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This fixes most Fords

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Oct 2, 2014
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Just to update. Carried on without problem, down to the Black Forest and home again, idling revs always spot on.
My theory is some sensor or signal from a sensor just upset it the once.
 

Steve jackson

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Just to say thanks to Techno, I had the same problem 3ltr revs creeping up then battery light coming on after a minute, replaced the alternator regulator and hey presto it's back to normal.
 
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@Boringfrog I cant see on your avatar what your base vehicle is but we have a 2010 Burstner on a Fiat Ducato. Our fridge stopped working after having a new starter battery fitted and after much head scratching, I found that a 20A fuse was missing from its holder near the +ve terminal on the battery, presumably dislodged, when fitting the battery . I fit a new fuse and fridge worked!
On ours, battery is under the floor on N/S footwell. The yellow blade fuse is he one I fit. Is it possible yours has blown?

IMG_20180328_190248.jpg

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