Hymer B564 basin tap (1 Viewer)

Periscope

Free Member
Jul 14, 2016
33
3
France
Funster No
44,086
MH
A class
Exp
Newbie
How do I get the old one off?????????

Doesn't seem to be enough room to get at it and the easy solution seemed to be to take the basin off. That is, apart from the waste pipe and a seeming hidden fixing at the left hand end?
 

Flamenca

LIFE MEMBER
Jun 21, 2013
1,266
804
Europe
Funster No
26,598
MH
Hymer 564
Exp
Since 2010
Do you have a combined hob/basin assembly? If you do it is necessary to remove the dowells at the ends of the timber rail at the front. If that is the case with yours I have hand written instructions produced by the previous owner of mine which I can scan.
 
Jul 6, 2016
1,547
1,264
West Sussex
Funster No
43,954
MH
Carthago Chic A clas
Exp
Since 1990
Can I ask why you want to remove the complete tap ?

You can sometimes undertake repairs whilst insitu.

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Periscope

Free Member
Jul 14, 2016
33
3
France
Funster No
44,086
MH
A class
Exp
Newbie
Ah, sorry, not the sink but the basin (bathroom).

As to why, the previous owner had bought replacement taps for both kitchen and bathroom. He changed the kitchen one (which is comparatively easy) but cried off the bathroom one, claiming lack of time.
I hadn't understood why until we found a puddle of water on the floor. It seems to be the base of the tap that is springing the wet stuff, so no obvious fix.
 
Jul 6, 2016
1,547
1,264
West Sussex
Funster No
43,954
MH
Carthago Chic A clas
Exp
Since 1990
Can you get your hand to the underside of the tap ? If so, I've previously used "non-slip rubber matting" to wrap around the plastic hexagonal nut to undo by hand. You should also be able to rotate the upper part of the tap to help with the removal process. Because of limited space it's normally very difficult to use a spanner or adjustable grips to remove the hexagonal nut.

If it's a Reich tap you can easily remove the tails (blue & red) which are attached to the incoming flexible pipe work. There is a plastic pin between the two tails. This just needs to be removed and the tails can be pulled out. Check your new tap to see if this is the case. Your new tap should have barbed tails (some are smooth).

Failing all that, just hire the services of a contortionist, haha !!!
 
Apr 27, 2016
6,853
7,948
Manchester
Funster No
42,762
MH
A class Hymer
Exp
Since the 80s
Leaks from pipes and joints, both taps cracked... classic frost damage.

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Jul 6, 2016
1,547
1,264
West Sussex
Funster No
43,954
MH
Carthago Chic A clas
Exp
Since 1990
Hello, what year & layout do you have ? 2005 ish may be able to help, just changed one on my 584.
Barrie.

The B564 has the bathroom area right across the rear of the van (quite a rare beast). Well, this was the layout up to 2006.

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Periscope

Free Member
Jul 14, 2016
33
3
France
Funster No
44,086
MH
A class
Exp
Newbie
Job done and if anyone needs to know how and are prepared to grovel......

....and trust me, it is a sod!!!!!
 
Jul 6, 2016
1,547
1,264
West Sussex
Funster No
43,954
MH
Carthago Chic A clas
Exp
Since 1990
Yes, it would be appreciated if you could post a brief description of the procedure you used. It may help others to tackle the job and avoid any of the potential pitfalls.

I'm recovering from an awkward job undertaken on the camper last week. I've still got a stiff neck which is quite painful at times. Hope you don't suffer any after effects - it's quite easy to strain muscles you thought you never had !!!
 
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Periscope

Free Member
Jul 14, 2016
33
3
France
Funster No
44,086
MH
A class
Exp
Newbie
Doesn't it hurt?????? One needs to be an ambidextrous midget to work comfortably.

OK, procedure was thus.....

Drain tank. If you then the water just keeps flowing on the cold side. Don't know why but it did so be warned!!!!! Pump wasn't kicking in but...........

Turn off power.

Disconnect tails. Remove retaining nuts before they slide down pipes out of reach!!!!!

Disconnect cables.

Remove centre screw from waste outlet.

Remove caps from screws and unscrew same that hold back panel and basin to wall.

This then allows you to gently lift/flex basin up at front and gives you enough room to get a pair of grips onto brass nut.

Remove spout from tap (small screw on underside)

Hold grips onto brass nut and turn tap in anticlockwise direction until you can remove tap. This sounds easy but brass on plastic thread is bloody stiff. Attempts at lubing made no difference. Maybe I should have tried different lubes. Wd40 and grease made no difference at all.

Fix new spade connectors onto electrical tails.

Introduce tap into hole.

Slide underside washer over tails and then threaded part of tap. This has to be done from underneath and there is very little space for your hand.

Prop up front edge of basin so you can see new brass nut when screwing it on.

Thread new brass nut over electrical tails.

Offer it up to threaded part of tap and then swear profusely when it won't catch. At all costs keep hold of nut and do not let it drop down pipe well!!!!!
You will know when thread has caught right because it is just as stiff as the one you've just removed. If you don't believe me then do a dummy run before you off tap up to hole. If you find a lube that works then let me know!

Now comes the painful bit of laboriously turning that nut with your wrench, on your knees with head tilted at 60 degrees, for five minutes.

Shout with triumph and scare all wildlife/small children within thirty yards.

Connect cables to appropriate coloured opposites. (For those of you with black and white televisions, that's blue to blue and brown to brown)

Reconnect pipes to tap tails. (Long tail is cold).

Stuff some wet stuff in tank and give her a whirl. If it works then refix screws, have a large drink and do nothing for the rest of the day.

Next time, pay someone else to do it!!!!!

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