Safe to start after 12 months? (1 Viewer)

M

michaelp

Deleted User
Hello forum,

I've been living in my '89 Hymer B694 for a year while on contract work away from home. I bought it for this purpose so I have plenty of experience living in it but know nothing about the mechanical side. It had just been MOT'd when I got it, It hasn't seen a garage or mechanic in the time I've had it. It's a FIAT chassis with a 2.5 litre diesel engine, no turbo.

My contract is about to end and I'll be going home so I need to get it road-worthy. I have driven it about 400 miles in total, with no problems, but I haven't started the engine for nine months (I moved it 20 yards to change pitch in December). I'm scared to start it! Should I be? I expect a lot of steam and smoke when I turn the ignition key but I'm worried something could have seized up with it being parked for so long, and through the winter (the water pipes froze up over Christmas / new year!)

Thanks in advance.

Michael
 
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Peter JohnsCross MH

Funster
Deceased RIP
Jan 5, 2008
9,617
6,194
East Sussex
Funster No
1,134
MH
Autotrail
Exp
1995
Hi,

Only problem you might have is the clutch plate sticking to the flywheel, if so, put it in gear and put your foot on the footbrake and turn the key.

It should then break the seal.

Never leave an engine standing, always start it once a week and move the van a foot so the tyres change position as well.

Good luck

Peter
 
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M

michaelp

Deleted User
Thanks Peter, I'll try and be more sensible in future. Honest!

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slickmouse

Free Member
Dec 30, 2007
293
0
Planet Mars next 2 Uranus
Funster No
1,090
MH
Winne/DAF Coach
I would put a wee bit of oil into it, then disconnect the wire to the heater plugs this will let it turn over and get the oil pressure up, then re-connect and start it up dont rev it and let it idle until all the temps look good.

Hopefully your handbrake hasnt been left on, if it is and the rear brakes are stuck hit the rear drums at the back or if you have a large hammer and a block of wood hit the front wheels,

Thats about it I'd say
 

pappajohn

LIFE MEMBER
Aug 26, 2007
43,286
49,216
Dark side of the moon
Funster No
172
Exp
Since 2005
I would put a wee bit of oil into it, then disconnect the wire to the heater plugs this will let it turn over and get the oil pressure up, then re-connect and start it up dont rev it and let it idle until all the temps look good.

Hopefully your handbrake hasnt been left on, if it is and the rear brakes are stuck hit the rear drums at the back or if you have a large hammer and a block of wood hit the front wheels,

Thats about it I'd say

On no account should you hit the brake back plate.....its only pressed steel and will be damaged. (or did i misunderstand slickmouse!)

you should remove the wheel and FIRMLY TAP the brake drum or, with the wheel on, place a socket and extension bar over one of the wheel nuts and give that a good seeing to with a hammer.

that way you dont damage the laquer on the wheel if its alloy.



if that doesnt work.....you need to remove the wheel, replace two opposing wheel studs, put a bar/tyre level between them and apply some turning force while hitting the DRUM.

it needs shock to free them but a little torque does help.

just driving off can free them but can also do some serious damage to the brake components.

regardless of whether the brakes are stuck or not they will be covered in rust and will take a little time to clean up....they will grab and be noisey for a few miles.
driving with the brakes GENTLY applied will clean them quickly.

Engine.....if you cant get to the heater plug wire another option to prevent it starting is the fuel cut-off switch.
usually in the engine bay on the top left side of the bulkhead.....about the size of a relay with a rubber cover, pull the multi connector off the switch. this prevents the fuel pump seloniod opening...no fuel, no start. (a good anti theft device as well)
as slickmouse said, put a little oil in the top to lube the camshaft, but not a lot and crank it over a few times.
when you reconnect everything and it starts DONT rev it.....it can take a few seconds to fully fill the oilways and build up oil pressure.

Clutch....again, as already said, in 4th or 5th gear, handbrake on, footbrake on, clutch down and turn the key. dont hold it on the key, if it doesnt free off just keep turning the key on and off.

most importantly.....listen for unusual noises for the first few miles.
anything with a bearing or bush could have siezed....water pump, power steering pump, alternator etc.

sorry if this all sounds doom and gloom but you wont leave it so long next time.....will you :winky:
 
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M

michaelp

Deleted User
Thanks for all the good advice! Fortunately I'm not so stupid as to leave the handbrake on (OK I am so stupid, but my mum told me to leave it off, she also told me to move it occasionally but that involved effort!)

Fingers crossed.

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pappajohn

LIFE MEMBER
Aug 26, 2007
43,286
49,216
Dark side of the moon
Funster No
172
Exp
Since 2005
Thanks for all the good advice! Fortunately I'm not so stupid as to leave the handbrake on (OK I am so stupid, but my mum told me to leave it off, she also told me to move it occasionally but that involved effort!)

Fingers crossed.

Huh !!!!

he lets me write all that drivel about freeing brakes then he says he left it off anyway........:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

hope everything else is ok.:thumb:
 

IanH

Free Member
Apr 6, 2008
158
3
Cornwall
Funster No
2,072
MH
5th wheel
Exp
4
If you are not mechanically inclined,why dont you get a garage out to look it over before you start it .
You could save yourself a fortune in repairs
 

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