battery tester (1 Viewer)

Sep 15, 2009
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Hi I Have done a search but cant find what I am looking for which is an inexpensive 12v battery tester. to test my hab battery and vehicle batteries a link to item be nice too thanks Paul
 
OP
OP
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Sep 15, 2009
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Would now be a good time to say I am clueless ? The van has a panel its just to check batteries are what that is telling me and to check condition. They was reading low today just over 12v for van battery and 11.9 for the hab batteries. van hasnt been usd for a good few weeks and we have had really realy dull skies since xmas so solar will struggle to keep things charged.

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pappajohn

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You dont need a tester....you need a hookup, soon.

Your panel volt display will be a reasonably good indicator of battery state.

If you let the batteries fall below 12v they will start to become damaged.

You wont get ANY usable power from your solar panel in this bad whether.
 

Don Quixote

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Not long enough, but a little common sense helps..........
You MUST keep your batteries charged at all times. By the sounds of it as pappajohn states in a roundabout way your current batteries might be discharged beyond use. Forget solar in UK....
 
Jan 8, 2013
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Feb 22, 2011
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Lots of battery threads at the moment, I guess the colder weather finds the weakness in them.
I like stealaway thoughts on batteries !
 
OP
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Thanks everyone I have put it on hook up which I rarely do as van is normaly used a lot more than recent weeks. I am now researching batteries to purchase thats a minefield but i am sure I will ask you good peoples advice.

I have been reading info on http://www.aandncaravanservices.co.uk/ website regarding Reich Burstner set ups so thats confusing me more lol thanks for now Paul
 

Don Quixote

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Not long enough, but a little common sense helps..........
Buy your batteries at Battery MegaStore, good price good service and so far I'm very pleased with the 3 x 100amp I have from them.

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Dec 10, 2013
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Lidl are selling a Battery and Alternator tester this Thursday, don't know if its any good.

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Feb 24, 2013
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I am probably just behind you on the technical level, but I would say the could well still be fine, if regularly used as they have been, provided they stay at a half decent level after a day or two on charge you could be good to go

That said if they are 3 years old or older might just be a useful warning to get them changed while it is convenient, better a controlled change than a must do while somewhere on site

When we bought ours 3 years ago and three years old, the batteries both appeared to be duff, it was actually only one, but I changed both, other good one now in a mates MH still doing fine for him

I do carry a simple multi meter which I find very useful for checking various things including fuses, something like this is a good thing to have, even if only to help someone else out (y)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Draper-60...241725?hash=item541017b3fd:g:c1gAAOSwq7JUEICU

there are loads to chose from and someone will now tell you a better one to get :)
 

Jaws

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@PORKSTER , do you know what the electric system is in your van ?

If it is a Sargent, then as mentioned elsewhere that 11.9v reading will almost certainly be false
Most of the Sargent systems I have checked have been .4v low, while some are only .2v low, but ALL have read lower than was actual !
You may be worrying about nowt !
 

Lenny HB

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A car battery tester is useless for testing a Leisure battery as they test the cranking performance which is a high load for a short period, A battery that is too knackered for leisure use will usually pass this test.

1) Best way of testing a leisure battery is to fully charge it, let it rest for an hour then & check the voltage:-
2) Place a load on it of say 5 amps (can do this in the van by turning on lights etc.).
3) Leave it with the load for a time that equates to 25% of battery capacity (100A/H battery it would be 5 amps for 5 hours).
4) Turn the load off let the battery settle for ½-1 hour measure the voltage, the battery will now be @ 75% state of charge.
5) Repeat 3, battery will now be @ 50% state of charge.
6) Repeat 3, battery will now be @ 25% state of charge.

upload_2016-1-13_9-44-15.png

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Peter A Forbes

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We occasionally use one of the 'old school' testers, made by Benning in Germany, it is a heavy discharge tester with loads for 100A, 200A and 300A and a digital display.

Max testing time 5 seconds, but it does give the battery a good test of performance.

There was/is on on ebid.

Peter
 

Don Quixote

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A car battery tester is useless for testing a Leisure battery as they test the cranking performance which is a high load for a short period, A battery that is too knackered for leisure use will usually pass this test.

1) Best way of testing a leisure battery is to fully charge it, let it rest for an hour then & check the voltage:-
2) Place a load on it of say 5 amps (can do this in the van by turning on lights etc.).
3) Leave it with the load for a time that equates to 25% of battery capacity (100A/H battery it would be 5 amps for 5 hours).
4) Turn the load off let the battery settle for ½-1 hour measure the voltage, the battery will now be @ 75% state of charge.
5) Repeat 3, battery will now be @ 50% state of charge.
6) Repeat 3, battery will now be @ 25% state of charge.

View attachment 89138
A good post and good chart, but please do not repeat test/discharge your battery/batteries below 50% and never do it ebore 25% as this can damage them beyond use.
 

Jaws

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You should also never use a drop tester on a gel battery..
I really canna remember why ( got it in my notes somewhere but... )
It can ruin one in seconds

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Dec 12, 2010
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I have been reading info on http://www.aandncaravanservices.co.uk/ website regarding Reich Burstner set ups so thats confusing me more lol thanks for now Paul

I think the Reich handbook recommends not exceeding about 250 amp/hour battery capacity including the vehicle battery for the standard ebox charger. I haven't got the info to hand, but my 05 Burstner has an additional charger fitted to the ebox that lets you exceed the 250 a/h. I fitted a 150 w solar panel last year and used the Reich solar controller, the guys at A&N kept me right as to how to wire it up and it works great, including trickle charging the cab battery and showing the solar input on the remote display. I've always found the Reich remote display volt and amp readings to be about the same as my multimeter readings, so assume that it's up to the job. The only time I've had battery problems was when one of the two leisure batteries started to fail and dragged the good one down with it, I disconnected the duff one and kept an eye on the good one for a couple of weeks then fitted a new lead acid of the same value and they've been fine.
 
OP
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Sep 15, 2009
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I think the Reich handbook recommends not exceeding about 250 amp/hour battery capacity including the vehicle battery for the standard ebox charger. I haven't got the info to hand, but my 05 Burstner has an additional charger fitted to the ebox that lets you exceed the 250 a/h. I fitted a 150 w solar panel last year and used the Reich solar controller, the guys at A&N kept me right as to how to wire it up and it works great, including trickle charging the cab battery and showing the solar input on the remote display. I've always found the Reich remote display volt and amp readings to be about the same as my multimeter readings, so assume that it's up to the job. The only time I've had battery problems was when one of the two leisure batteries started to fail and dragged the good one down with it, I disconnected the duff one and kept an eye on the good one for a couple of weeks then fitted a new lead acid of the same value and they've been fine.
I have read their info I did speak with him on the phone also I explained to him what my set up was and he told me I didnt have that set up lol. But on my van a 06 Burstner I have the vehicle battery of unknown size/power and for hab I have 2x 100ah connected to them I have an Zig X70 charger. This charger very rarely gets turned on as I also have 2x solar panels on roof of unknown power I do know one panel was an 80 watt upgrade from receipts. (The guy at a+n told me I havnt got a x70 charger at all lol)

I am happy to buy 2 new batteries as I dont know the age of these as I cant find receipt but they have a charge date of 11/2011 on them so looks like could be old. So its either age or my belief is lack of use and a clear days hasnt helped 2x nights of a few hours charging and 2x sunny afternoons see the batterys sitting at 12.6 volts this morning.

I am thinking of replacing with 2of these Broken Link Removed any opinions on these ? I wont be this month I have just paid out on 4 new tyres service and mot for car so in no hurry

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Peter A Forbes

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You should also never use a drop tester on a gel battery..
I really canna remember why ( got it in my notes somewhere but... )
It can ruin one in seconds

No reason not to, a 5-second drop test is nothing to the battery unless it is faulty to start with.

Peter
 

Don Quixote

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The "voltage drop" test is a crude but effective method of destroying a perfectly good battery! The current drawn can cause the plates to heat and buckle, result - one dead battery.
DC-Volts.gif
 

Lenny HB

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The "voltage drop" test is a crude but effective method of destroying a perfectly good battery! The current drawn can cause the plates to heat and buckle, result - one dead battery.
View attachment 89235
Totally agree and as I said in my post #15 useless for testing a leisure battery.

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Don Quixote

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Not long enough, but a little common sense helps..........
A 5 seconds drop test isn't going to do anything to a healthy battery.

Peter
Peter, you are missing my point. If the battery is healthy WHY test it, however if it's knackered or assuming it's knackered ( good battery ) the drop test WILL damage it, 5 seconds is enough.
 

Peter A Forbes

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Peter, you are missing my point. If the battery is healthy WHY test it, however if it's knackered or assuming it's knackered ( good battery ) the drop test WILL damage it, 5 seconds is enough.

Why test it?

If you are not sure, that's why you test, if you 'know' it's good then I agree there's no point in testing.

My main point was that any lead-acid battery on test won't be harmed by a 5-second drop test.

We have just over a tonne of sealed VRLA batteries in the workshop that are out of substations, all are technically scrap but to transport them legally we have to be taking them for 'testing'.

Peter

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Don Quixote

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Peter, I'm not getting into a pissing contest with you. You do what you think is right and I do what I think is right end of subject.
 

Abacist

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I've bought one of these which is yet to arrive. Are the battery experts saying that I've wasted my money and that I shouldn't use this gadget?
 

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