Love Love Ti Amo Italia! (1 Viewer)

YukonJac

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After many loooong years of slogging my way through appalling London traffic (operating my little pet services business), I can finally say one good thing about the experience; it gave me guts of iron behind the wheel, which has been invaluable as I fight my way up the Italian Riviera. I have at last escaped the Big Smoke and am now headed for the Etna Smoke.
I'm on my dream gap-year - just me, the Murvi and very importantly, my fabby little dog Murph - love ya Murph (THE best silent back-seat navigator/travelling companion on the entire planet)!!!
I spent a couple of weeks getting this far, firstly eating my way through the French family's orgiastic holiday feasts in Burgundy. I then continued my toll-free obsession to Menton via Castellane (the Route Napoleon) and crossed into Italy there.
The Italian Med coast road is hell and a brutal shock after the wonderful emptiness of French roads, but I'm determined not to pay a toll (for a good while anyway) and have slowly driven the length of it up to here. Yes, the Italians deserve their reputation as the most anarchic, aggressive drivers in Europe, but once I gave up being gobsmacked by their lunacy, it became quite entertaining. I've mostly survived it and am now just outside of Genoa and waiting for tonight's ferry to Palermo - a 21 hour crossing. No regrets avoiding the autostradas - it is all an experience to be had (and a fear to be conquered).
Once you find somewhere safe to park, the dozens of towns and cities of the Ligurian coast are such a delight to explore. Today, it was Arenzano and market day. What luck - but it made me absolutely CURSE an earlier shop at bloody Lidl! No more Lidl!!!! Markets and local shops - support the locals and you will be rewarded with REAL food, most especially in Italy (I say this to myself - shop where you wish of course). Absolutely charming, down-to-earth and inspiring to trawl a bustling Italian market. I went straight back to the van with the wonderful little artichokes I purchased, steamed them and simply melted a little butter with garlic to dip the leaves in - voila! I thought I could drop dead right here, in shivers of ecstasy - but that wouldn't be any fun because it's just the beginning.
Anyway, to all the solo gals (and undecided guys) out there in Funster-land, if you are dreaming about touring Italy but worry about the infamous chaos and facing it alone, I'm doing it the hard way and have been just fine so far - cool head, cool wheels. I had driven the length of Italy and wintered in Greece many years ago - it is all entirely do-able if you are reasonably confident, flexible and well-prepared.
Long post, I know, but bliss is to be shared.
Jacquie
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Carol

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Thank you for sharing your adventure, I look forward to following it sounds like slow and easy is a good way to travel. (y)
 
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Nice little read, good to see you are getting somewhere, I had to go back and re-read your last thread with dodgy fridge, to see if that was sorted, then look up google to see where Genoa is, thought you had driven the entire length of Italy in 48 hours without using a toll road :)

now know the fridge is not fixed and Genoa is barely into Italy (y), looks like a good way to avoid those Italian drivers :)

enjoy and good luck with the fridge (y)

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YukonJac

YukonJac

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Nice little read, good to see you are getting somewhere, I had to go back and re-read your last thread with dodgy fridge, to see if that was sorted, then look up google to see where Genoa is, thought you had driven the entire length of Italy in 48 hours without using a toll road :)

now know the fridge is not fixed and Genoa is barely into Italy (y), looks like a good way to avoid those Italian drivers :)

enjoy and good luck with the fridge (y)

Ahh, the blinking fridge! Less said...
Already did the length of Italy to Brindisi toll-free quite a few years ago - no mean feat!! Yup, Genoa is only just into it, but if you take the coastal road, it feels like you've done quite a bit already - crikey. I plumped for the ferry this time because it is so reasonably priced and I think it'll be magic to sail into Palermo. I hope to meander back up the long way when Spring comes along and there's a bit more flora and fauna around:).
 

Forestboy

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Our favourite European country just love the insanity of the place. We've been to Italy in van and on the motorbike 5 times in last 2 years.
Love it :)
Enjoy (y)

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Oct 15, 2012
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Great read, look forward to hearing more of your exploits. I've always found the Italain toll roads to be reasonable but nothing beats shopping at their local markets. (y)
 
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YukonJac

YukonJac

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Great read, look forward to hearing more of your exploits. I've always found the Italain toll roads to be reasonable but nothing beats shopping at their local markets. (y)

You are right David - they are much more reasonable than the French tolls. Just me making a 'project' out of avoiding them and at the same time forcing myself to explore more and slow down. It's such a luxury to have time! I'm nowhere near retirement so this is a massive revelation.
 
Feb 22, 2014
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Sounds wonderful Jackie. Look forward to reading more of your adventures. What do you feed your dog whilst travelling?

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YukonJac

YukonJac

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Sounds wonderful Jackie. Look forward to reading more of your adventures. What do you feed your dog whilst travelling?
Well, she's only 7kg so I can afford the room to take a ton of her usual (Burns) and I make a kind of luxury paté to augment it with. In the past, though, I have used Purina One which is of decent quality and available through most of Europe - garden centres and the like usually carry it. Couple of cuties you have there!
 
Feb 22, 2014
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Well, she's only 7kg so I can afford the room to take a ton of her usual (Burns) and I make a kind of luxury paté to augment it with. In the past, though, I have used Purina One which is of decent quality and available through most of Europe - garden centres and the like usually carry it. Couple of cuties you have there!

Just interested for when we go on our travels. Ours are raw fed so hope to continue in that vein when we travel. :) Max and Phoebe are their names. My fur babies, mad as hatters but oh so loving. :D
 
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YukonJac

YukonJac

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Just interested for when we go on our travels. Ours are raw fed so hope to continue in that vein when we travel. :) Max and Phoebe are their names. My fur babies, mad as hatters but oh so loving. :D

They are adorable - bit of grooming involved with CPs!?
Murph eats semi-raw but she is programmed, like me, to be flexible for travels. If I had a fridge/freezer that was reliable, however, I would probably always make her food. Never had a reliable d**n fridge in my vans!

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Dec 12, 2010
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Just interested for when we go on our travels. Ours are raw fed so hope to continue in that vein when we travel. :) Max and Phoebe are their names. My fur babies, mad as hatters but oh so loving. :D

We buy raw frozen for our two (Nutriment) and if we cram the freezer, we can manage 4 weeks away. Hoping to get to Italy round about April, taking 5 or 6 weeks. I'm sure when we run out, Val would have them on filet steak and I'll be on Supernoodles :(
 

DBK

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I'll be interested to hear how Mutt, sorry Murph, fares on the ferry in terms of what arrangements they have.

I suspect you could just do without a fridge, folk did until fairly recently. My family went camping in Yugoslavia in the sixties without so much as a cool box. Just shop regularly for things like salads and make use of tins for main meals unless you can buy meat on the day you want to eat it.

Best of luck and where will you be heading after Sicily?
 
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YukonJac

YukonJac

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I'll be interested to hear how Mutt, sorry Murph, fares on the ferry in terms of what arrangements they have.

I suspect you could just do without a fridge, folk did until fairly recently. My family went camping in Yugoslavia in the sixties without so much as a cool box. Just shop regularly for things like salads and make use of tins for main meals unless you can buy meat on the day you want to eat it.

Best of luck and where will you be heading after Sicily?

Well, I think I may need your help DBK - just to contradict all of my glee.....I'm in the queue about to board the Palermo ferry and notice my left rear tyre is almost flat!!! Couldn't see any obvious puncture, sidewall seems ok. Trying not to panic (looks like we have a 1/2 hour yet to board), I get out my manual, realise I may have a pig of a time getting the spare down from under the chassis, but I go to find my jack kit. Upon inspection of the kit, I see that the tyre wrench is broken in half and completely useless!!! Now I would have thought this was something Murvi would have checked before releasing my 'fully refurbished' three year old van to me. I guess not. I know they are great but...
Anyway, here I am, still trying not to panic - I have a can of Holt's Tyre Weld, but I see the instructions state the vehicle must be driven for at least 6 miles after the can is emptied into the tyre. It is not 6 miles to board the ferry and I am trapped in the queue. So here is my cunning plan - I hope the thing doesn't go entirely flat before we board. I'll sneak on and wait until we arrive tomorrow, then use the tyre weld before we disembark and limp from the ferry to the nearest service station - keep in mind this will be nightmarish Palermo, late on Saturday evening. So question to you is...have you ever had to drop that spare from your Murvi? The bolt behind the rear wheel looks almost impossible to access. On second thought, I think will just have to find some help in Palermo or ring the AA since my tyre iron is useless. This is just a test, right?? (n)
Could be worse - could ALWAYS be worse...

Wish me luck and will post late tomorrow to let you know the outcome.

:)

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DBK

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I've dropped the spare as a test but I agree it is as awkward as can be but they are all more or less like that. Some MHs don't even have a spare.

Given it is the rear tyre you should be able to creep on even if it is flat - except ground clearance will be substantially reduced but hopefully (easy for me to say at this distance) you should be fine but it depends on the ramp angles but as a PVC you will be better off than those in more traditional vehicles with massive rear overhangs.
 
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YukonJac

YukonJac

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Yes, I sure should've had a go myself before I left and at least I would've noticed the ruined tyre iron. Changed many a tyre before so didn't think it would prove an insurmountable problem on this van. Def hop I can make it up the ramp - have the Thule Easybase and bikes on the towbar. Well, looks like we are about to go - life on the edge!!!
 

DBK

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Yes, I sure should've had a go myself before I left and at least I would've noticed the ruined tyre iron. Changed many a tyre before so didn't think it would prove an insurmountable problem on this van. Def hop I can make it up the ramp - have the Thule Easybase and bikes on the towbar. Well, looks like we are about to go - life on the edge!!!
If it's just the wrench (spanner, tyre iron? ) you should be able to borrow one from another Fiat MH but this assumes the jack works and the spare is inflated, which shouldn't be assumed and in the dark not worth finding out if you can avoid it!

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Hope you can get your tyre sorted.
If you can get on the ferry ok, I`m sure there would be someone around to assist a "damsel in distress" If nobody shows up hold the tyre wrench in your hands and start wailing uncontrolably.
Seriously, I`d be suprised if the ferry attendants didn`t offer assistance.
Good luck !
 
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:laughing: That's what I'd do ! Minus the crying! It worked for me many a time before I found Ralph:blush:
Even if I was capable of doing it myself!
 
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YukonJac

YukonJac

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Lol!!! You lot are making me smile!!! Still waiting to board...practising my wailing in the meantime! You gotta have a plan B and C!!

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YukonJac

YukonJac

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On board and under steam!! Held my breath the whole way - top bloomin' deck, wet ramp and a furious Italian ferry attendant screaming at everyone while doing a crazy jig of anger. Got parked and brought myself to look at the tyre - completely flat. I will be appealing to the god of Holt's Tyre Weld tomorrow. I think I'm a little nuts, or perhaps just a bit exhausted, because I can't stop smiling!
DBK - got a dog-friendly cabin and the Murph is snoring in her bed beside me. Had her out on the dog deck before bed and saw the kennels at the same time - one poor little fella was crying his heart out in there. Will make a separate post about it all for everyone's future reference.
Ciao tutti!!
 
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YukonJac

YukonJac

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Sell your shares in Holt's Tyre Weld - damn stuff didn't do a thing except render my tyre unrepairable. No panic, I barely wiggled my little finger and these lovely lads came dashing over to help - no wailing necessary!!
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Alas, after an hour of sweating and cursing, they couldn't get my spare out from under the van - the tool supplied in the jack kit to lower the wheel seemed to be the wrong one!! None of their tools worked either.
So I thanked them and limped off the ferry, pulled over at the port security area, made a cuppa and rang the Sicilian version on the AA.
An hour later...
Fabulous and entertaining service from the 2 Palermo Breakdown Boys. They had to wreck my spare wheel carrier (seems the entire mechanism/cable was seized and the thread to lower it was shredded) but they managed to get the the thing out from under the van and onto the hub. Lotsa swearing and fag smoking and arguing amongst themselves (add the compulsory wild gesticulations, of course). While this was all going on, they still found a way to convey to me how fantastico and virile Sicilian men were - one pulled out a photo of his five children and flexed his biceps at me. Luv'd 'em!! Palermo traffic is terrifying, even at midnight, so I was off to find a quieter place to spend the night. You helped me keep my chin up folks XOXO !! Thanks!!

Moral of the story - check your spare situation regularly - my van is only a few years old and I never imagined that lowering it could be so problematic. I had the spare "checked" when I had the van serviced, but I guess it was only the pressure and condition they had a look at. Bright side - it's 20c this morning, gorgeous and sunny and we are now heading to the south coast. Hurrah!!!

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ChrisMac

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We're heading that way at the end of February, intend taking the same ferry. How was the journey down ? Will keep an eye on here to see how the trip goes (y)
 
Feb 24, 2013
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Delighted you are there, really sorry to read of your troubles but it is good for us to know others have their woes as well and as you say it could always have been worse. :)

:wine:

Now we look forward to tales of secluded camping spots and bars (y)
 
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We'd had Busty 3 years and I always used the tools from my workshop if I ever had to remove the wheels. Thought I'd try the supplied toolkit one day, wheel brace was 19mm instead of 17mm, you'd have needed to have completed a Charles Atlas course to get the scissor jack to lift her and the spare wheel cage assembly would benefit from having a third arm grafted to your body to get it to release. Valuable lesson learnt, bought a breaker bar and socket and a 4 ton hydraulic jack.
Pleased you're back on the road now though :)
 
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YukonJac

YukonJac

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Thank you very much folks! Here's a couple of shots from my first day of action:
This is Camping Scarabeo in Punta Braccetto on the southeast coast. There are three year-round sites here but funster Flatpackchicken swung me here instead of my original choice of Luminoso which is next door (nothing wrong with Luminoso at all, just more atmosphere here and LOVELY local owners). Glad he did - very convivial here and lively!! We're packed in liked salted herrings in a barrel, but it feels fine. Couldn't believe how busy it was - I was very lucky - arrived with no reservation just as someone was vacating one of the prime seafront spots - the first photo was taken from my van door. Very, VERY reasonably priced at €8 per night if staying 30 days or more, .30c per kilowatt metered leccy - you even get your own PRIVATE LOO!!! Look, I'm a wild camper and a bit of a loner at heart, but I'm just loving it here -and it's a great base to work from in the winter - many of the best Sicilian sites are within easy driving distance.
Murph loves her new front garden and there seems plenty to see and do if you have a bit of initiative and genuine curiosity. Punta Braccetto itself is not pretty and the immediate surroundings just out of town are a bit on the 'plastic costa' side (endless hothouses), but we are smack on a decent sandy beach and there is a lovely pine forest to get lost in within easy walking distance.
A lot of Sicily is blighted by a terrible rubbish and tipping problem, not unlike the rest of southern Italy and other southern European countries. I knew that coming here, but if I didn't, I'd be absolutely shocked and possibly put off. I'm fanatically against the destruction of the environment in this way, but it helped me a lot to research why it is this way here. The problem seems to be very complex and you just have to rise above judgements and assumptions or it will ruin it for you.
So take note; if Sicily is on your agenda, be prepared to get past it and come for the incredible history and the food, or forget about it. The scenery is amazing too - just don't look to closely at the ground around you :Smile:.


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