alarms (1 Viewer)

[david price]

A question on another forum asks why cant you fit domestic alarms to a motorhome has they are much cheaper?
I have an alarm fitted but have thought about fitting a wireless alarm and sensors to the garage area (a domestic one).Would save a lot of money by useing a domestic one.
Dave

 

[hilldweller]

A question on another forum asks why cant you fit domestic alarms to a motorhome has they are much cheaper?
Dave

You could, but not if it was a requirement from your insurers who would want a certified one.

 

[pappajohn]

there is one very valid reason David.......mains electric.

they do have a backup 12v battery but rely on mains power for normal use and if disconnected from 230v and the battery goes flat it will loose any zone programming you put in it.


(quote)
In general most alarms will work in the event of a power failure. All PSTV alarm control panels incorporate a standby battery which will power the system in the event of a mains electricity failure. The industry standard is for the battery to power the system for a min of 8 hours. If the system is armed and there is a power failure the standby battery will hold the alarm in its current status until the power is restored or a activation is detected.


other than that i see no reason not to use one.

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[mulaz]

home Alarm or is it!!!

Check my previous post regarding fitting a domestic alarm complete with PIR's
this one is re badged and sold as a caravan alarm!!!
Link Removed:thumb:

 

[david price]

Mulaz,thanks,that looks ok for my garage area.
Dave

 

[strathspey]

A question on another forum asks why cant you fit domestic alarms to a motorhome has they are much cheaper?


I have fitted alarms to both outside lockers and the cab doors using the small personal alarms sold by Aldi.

Total cost £6

They are batter powered and emit 130db when triggered.

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[gazznsam]

easy solution to the mains thing... in most domestic alarms the backup battery is a little 2 AH 12 volt SLA battery... so you just remove that battery and connect the 12 volts input upto the van's leisure batteries.

a fair few people have done this, some also connect the mains up so it on mains when on a site, but i cant see the point.

like has been said tho, if you have an insurer that needs a thatcham approved alarm, then you have to go for an automotive one,

but if you want to fit an alarm, then a domestic one can have more advantages over a car type alarm on a motorhome.....

you can get domestic alarms with remote 'plipper' controlls to set and unset it, as well as the key code pad thingy,
it's very easy to set up partial set modes on them, so you can leave the dog inside and deactivate the internal sensors,

you can put in wire break type triggers to go round bikes on a rack, and have them on the 12 hour circuit, which will set off the alarm if broken even when the alarm is not set... obviousely means it'll go off when you unplug the wire to take the bikes off, unless you put a hidden switch in paralell with the connectors.

you can have loads of zones... most have 8 zones, some a lot more, so you can split things into areas of the van, like belly lockers, have left and right side, or even corners for 4 zones, then if one sensor plays up, or you leave a door open, you'll see on the panel which area the problem is.... better than most car alarms that just refuse to set and say a sensor 'somewhere' is not right.

same if triggered, it'll show which zone has been triggered so you know where to send the dog, or go your self with a maglight or baseball bat.


i keep meaning to fit a domestic alarm to my van, have a car alarm for the cab area, and a simple alarm in the living area (plus the dog... and sam, bod help anyone who damages the van whilst she's about)

but i want to have the basement lockers on at least 2 different zones, a couple of break wire connectors about the exterior, to put round the trailer. scooter, tables and chairs in the awning etc,
infareds in the living area and bathroom,
sensors on all the windows, entry door (that one on the delay entry bit)
would want some kind of beam break sensor for the roof window, as we do leave it open occasionaly if it's hot and the rats and dog are inside.

might go for a microwave sensor to cover the awning area, to detect people aproaching the van.

and of course a couple of very loud sirens, slightly out of sync with each other so they create a pulsing painfull effect to humans, but i want to find some that wont hurt the dog or rats hearing if possible.
and a couple of white strobes, one in the cab area, and one near the entry door outside, the idea being to take away the night vision of anyone attempting to break in,

Sam wants a solenoid operated spike in the drivers seat, and a flame thrower run off the lpg tank accross the side entry door, that's work off the microwave sensor, you get 3 warnings, if you dont heed them your toast

only joking, honnest, the dog prefers raw meat.