Does LPG corrode over time? (1 Viewer)

American Dream

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Aug 20, 2007
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I guess what I'm trying to ask is, are there other impurities in LPG that corrode the components/injectors etc in an LPG Fuel system over time and what should be looked out for?

Do you get condensate in the inside of tanks etc if left almost empty over the winter or is it different in a "pressurised" environment?

Steve.
 

45eEver

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Apr 15, 2009
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I used to inspect aluminium cylinders for corrosion Steve.
The cylinders were scheduled to be inspected after 10years, and then annually.

I never found any.

I think the risk of corrosion is very very low.

There is no risk of condensation in cylinders left nearly empty.

It wasn't unusual to find oil/water sludge in cylinders last century.
The suppliers seem to have cleaned up their act.

Cylinder should be inspected/tested regularly.
From memory, after 10 years, but they may have brought in new regs.

The PRV at the top needed replacing every 10 years, but there may be new regs.
Pressure Relief Valve.
The spring is under compression and weakens.
 

Snowbird

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Apr 24, 2009
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I had an oily black sludge come out of the gas pipes on my old Rockwood when I took the fridge freezer out a few years ago.Someone said it was from the rubber pipes,but I had my doubts<I think it came from the fixed LPG tank.

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45eEver

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Apr 15, 2009
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The only way you could get sludge out your propane cylinder is to turn it upside down Snowbird.
 

pappajohn

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I had an oily black sludge come out of the gas pipes on my old Rockwood when I took the fridge freezer out a few years ago.Someone said it was from the rubber pipes,but I had my doubts<I think it came from the fixed LPG tank.

think thats the crap that blocks regulaters if they are mounted too low.....
it leaches from the rubber gas pipes
 

Snowbird

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The only way you could get sludge out your propane cylinder is to turn it upside down Snowbird.
Hi,The only way you can turn an LPG tank upside down is to turn the coach upside down,and I never managed to do that.:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

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American Dream

American Dream

Free Member
Aug 20, 2007
0
156
Lincoln
Funster No
125
MH
?
Exp
?
I used to inspect aluminium cylinders for corrosion Steve.
The cylinders were scheduled to be inspected after 10years, and then annually.

I never found any.

I think the risk of corrosion is very very low.

There is no risk of condensation in cylinders left nearly empty.

It wasn't unusual to find oil/water sludge in cylinders last century.
The suppliers seem to have cleaned up their act.

Cylinder should be inspected/tested regularly.
From memory, after 10 years, but they may have brought in new regs.

The PRV at the top needed replacing every 10 years, but there may be new regs.
Pressure Relief Valve.
The spring is under compression and weakens.

Many Thanks 45er.:thumb:

Are they all aluminium or is it only the "newer" ones?

Are the PRV's easy to replace?

The only way you could get sludge out your propane cylinder is to turn it upside down Snowbird.

:Eeek::Eeek::Eeek:Now you don't want to be doing that!!!!!

I'm sure I've read about some sort of hose degradation on a forum recently.Do the filler hoses degrade being constantly in contact with the lpg?
 
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45eEver

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Apr 15, 2009
267
1
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The hoses that degrade are are made from red "rubber".

All the filler hoses I've seen are made from very high pressure hoses.
They are made from much more serious "rubber".

I've one that is over 30 years old.
I've never seen any sign of degration.

The trick with the red hoses is to make sure there isn't a low point in the line.
The easiest way I know is to wind a pig tail curl in the hose between the valve and the cylinder so that any oil formed in the pipe drips down into the cylinder rather than getting blown up into the reducing valve.

Most refillable cylinders are made from steel, which is less likely to corrode in this situation than aluminium.
Some seem to be made from a type of fibreglass.
Others are made from titanium.

You can replace the PRV yourself AD.

You need to take the following steps in a very well ventilated area.

1) Make sure the tank is very empty.
2) Take the tank off.
3) Unscrew the PRV using a brass spanner.
4) Screw in your new PRV.
5) Pressure test for leaks.
6) Replace the cylinder under the vehicle.
7) Pressure test for leaks again.

In addition you probably need a Corgi Certificate for your insurance company.

All in all, it's better to plead ignorance or get the job done by a trader.
Who should burst pressure test your cylinder at the same time.

A new cylinder might be the most cost effective way.

The PRV's are usually very tight so brass spanners aren't much use.
Most folks use steel spanners.
I've had to use a long Stilson with a 6ft cheater bar on occasions.
 
OP
OP
American Dream

American Dream

Free Member
Aug 20, 2007
0
156
Lincoln
Funster No
125
MH
?
Exp
?
The hoses that degrade are are made from red "rubber".

All the filler hoses I've seen are made from very high pressure hoses.
They are made from much more serious "rubber".

I've one that is over 30 years old.
I've never seen any sign of degration.

The trick with the red hoses is to make sure there isn't a low point in the line.
The easiest way I know is to wind a pig tail curl in the hose between the valve and the cylinder so that any oil formed in the pipe drips down into the cylinder rather than getting blown up into the reducing valve.

Most refillable cylinders are made from steel, which is less likely to corrode in this situation than aluminium.
Some seem to be made from a type of fibreglass.
Others are made from titanium.

You can replace the PRV yourself AD.

You need to take the following steps in a very well ventilated area.

1) Make sure the tank is very empty.
2) Take the tank off.
3) Unscrew the PRV using a brass spanner.
4) Screw in your new PRV.
5) Pressure test for leaks.
6) Replace the cylinder under the vehicle.
7) Pressure test for leaks again.

In addition you probably need a Corgi Certificate for your insurance company.

All in all, it's better to plead ignorance or get the job done by a trader.
Who should burst pressure test your cylinder at the same time.

A new cylinder might be the most cost effective way.

The PRV's are usually very tight so brass spanners aren't much use.
Most folks use steel spanners.
I've had to use a long Stilson with a 6ft cheater bar on occasions.

Many Thanks.:thumb:

Is there any risk re sparks etc?

I was thinking of using a compressor to make sure the tank is fully vented.

Is lpg heavier than air ?It's a case of finding the same size cylinder I guess if I have to replace.

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