Wheel arch welding on potential new purchase (1 Viewer)

Ragnar

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Hi funsters! Long time lurker, first time poster here. :) We're very close to purchasing our first motorhome - it's a van conversion on a 2001 Fiat Ducato MWB chassis. It's a private sale, so no warranty.

We're largely happy with the conversion, but have some concern about a rust problem in the front wheel arches that required some welding work to pass its MOT (valid up to Feb 2017).

I've seen receipts for about ÂŁ1.5k of work from a bona-fide garage to enable it to pass its MOT, but they're not itemised very well, so hard to tell exactly what's happened. According to the seller, it was taken back to bare metal, then replacements bits were welded on. The end result is a bit like the last photo in this link - the inside of the arches are covered in a thick black paint. There's also a curved metal plate bolted on top of the paint in the back of one wheel arch, which looks like a sacrificial/protective barrier of some kind.

We're quite worried that there will be lots more secret rust buried in the depths of the vehicle that we're not aware of - we have basically no mechanical experience. It has to be said that the rest of the base vehicle looks in reasonable condition though. All the buyers guides we've read say 'check for rust in the wheel arches', but not what to do when it's already had work done to fix it. :)

Sadly the van is on the other side of the country from us, but the seller has agreed to drop the van off at a garage of our choice, so we can get an independent opinion on the work that's been done. We'll have to try and do this by telephone, since we can't travel back during the week, and I'm also a bit worried that they won't be able to see that much because of the new paint.

Does that sound like a sensible way to go, or are we just flogging a dead horse? I guess it would also be helpful to know if it's expected in a 2001 van. Our 1996 car is still doing fine with nothing like these rust problems, so our instinct is that this is 'not normal'.

So, what's the verdict funsters? Would you run a mile if you were in our shoes? :)
 
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pappajohn

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If it's that bad, walk away.

Tinworm has a bad habit of spreading to places you can't see so repairing what you can see is only delaying the inevitable.
A workmate had a Granada Ghia and spent hundreds EVERY year repairing rust close to what was repaired the previous year.
Saw sense at the fourth year fail and scrapped it.
 
Sep 3, 2012
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I'd run a mile. Any welding has to be continuous to pas the MOT spot weld /tack welds are not acceptable. To fill over rust holes /gaps with filler is not acceptable from a strength point of view or MOT and will only rust again from the inside. I would honestly save your money and put it towards a better van. The rest of the van interior may look nice but its no good if you cant drive it anywhere. The original van before it was converted could have been a scrapper before conversion. I would also be concerned of what the rest of the underbody was like also. Why does the MOT run out February -That should ring warning bells alone. :eek:
Just walk away and learn from the experience(y)

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icantremember

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There are plenty of motorhomes for sale out there in good condition ... why would you want to consider one in such poor condition .. my advice, as others have said, walk away or you will regret it.
 
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If you have no real mechanical experience then the answer is an even firmer "Walk away now".

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Ragnar

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Thanks for all the comments. Sorry, realised there was an epic mistake in my post - I accidentally lost it and had to retype and must have messed it up.

The MOT is valid until Feb 2018 - i.e. he's just got this work done and it has passed the MOT as a result - I've verified the certificate. Does the advice above still stand? :)

As for why we're considering it, it's in our price range, with a layout we love from a reputable converter, when we've struggled to find anything comparable in many many months of looking. We didn't want to go above ÂŁ10k with it being our first van.

(Also, any way to edit the OP to correct the date?)
 
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tedontour

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Thanks for all the comments. Sorry, realised there was an epic mistake in my post - I accidentally lost it and had to retype and must have messed it up.

The MOT is valid until Feb 2018 - i.e. he's just got this work done and it has passed the MOT as a result - I've verified the certificate. Does the advice above still stand? :)

As for why we're considering it, it's in our price range, with a layout we love from a reputable converter, when we've struggled to find anything comparable in many many months of looking. We didn't want to go above ÂŁ10k with it being our first van.

(Also, any way to edit the OP to correct the date?)
yes or save up lots of money for next year
 
Feb 16, 2013
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Thanks for all the comments. Sorry, realised there was an epic mistake in my post - I accidentally lost it and had to retype and must have messed it up.

The MOT is valid until Feb 2018 - i.e. he's just got this work done and it has passed the MOT as a result - I've verified the certificate. Does the advice above still stand? :)

As for why we're considering it, it's in our price range, with a layout we love from a reputable converter, when we've struggled to find anything comparable in many many months of looking. We didn't want to go above ÂŁ10k with it being our first van.

(Also, any way to edit the OP to correct the date?)
Sorry ,I'm all in favour of old vans , but if you are considering paying anywhere near 10 grand on a rusty van , I'd agree with everything that has been said.
Rust and welding ,I'd say you should be looking at 3 grand at the outside.
Or better still if you can't do your own welding buy one that doesn't need it.
Plenty good vans for less than 10 grand.
 
Feb 16, 2013
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Agree with the above comments.
I'd also be wary of a 2001 vehicle for 10k.
Think that's a pretty good clue that something isn't right.

A quick ebay search shows the ballpark figures for 2001 vehicles
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=motorhome&_dcat=14256&rt=nc&Model%20Year=2001
Think you would be better looking at this page of vans that have actually sold.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...lete=1&LH_Sold=1&rt=nc&_trksid=p2045573.m1684
 
Feb 16, 2013
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Sorry that link doesn't work
But if you click on the original link then click on sold items down the left hand side you will see the ones that have sold, vast difference to buy it now prices

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Jun 30, 2010
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Leave it be, there's always another, this time of year is when quite a lot of people sell.
 

Charlie

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Thanks for all the comments. Sorry, realised there was an epic mistake in my post - I accidentally lost it and had to retype and must have messed it up.

The MOT is valid until Feb 2018 - i.e. he's just got this work done and it has passed the MOT as a result - I've verified the certificate. Does the advice above still stand? :)

As for why we're considering it, it's in our price range, with a layout we love from a reputable converter, when we've struggled to find anything comparable in many many months of looking. We didn't want to go above ÂŁ10k with it being our first van.

(Also, any way to edit the OP to correct the date?)

I understood your OP.

The thing is with those vans is some seem to rust and by God when they rust they rust ! And some don't. Well looked after vans with the undersides cleaned every 2 or 3 years can be very decent indeed.

So my advice is to get the vehicle examined by a really good competent person. It could be it's a belter and hopefully a bargain and one that will fulfil your needs. Or it could be a right old tater .

Get it looked at ! 10K may not be a kings randsome for a Motorhome but it's a bloody lot of money if a mistake is made !! ATB.
 
Sep 3, 2012
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I would at least have another MOT done on it then -he may have taken it to a mates garage- worst case is you lose ÂŁ50 , better than ÂŁ10k of misery. I had an MOT failure on a car -rotten cills-had them welded. MOT guy asked what I was doing with the vehicle -said was running it for a year and scrapping it -he let me have an MOT. easy done a year later I had more welding work done but failed -scrapped the car. OK not worth 10k but was a never ending job or would have been,
Consider also if you are in a frontal hit -the front may all give way and kill or badly maim a passenger or driver-is it really worth the risk

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Ragnar

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Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for the feedback. The almost universally negative feedback combined with the (im)practicality of managing everything over such a long distance has meant we've decided to pull out.

Let the hunt commence again! :)
 
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TheBig1

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Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for the feedback. The almost universally negative feedback combined with the (im)practicality of managing everything over such a long distance has meant we've decided to pull out.

Let the hunt commence again! :)
I am pleased you have withdrawn from buying that van. from experience, once the rust in a van reaches the point of welding visible parts, it is already a losing battle. inner wings, suspension mounts and underbody will likely be full of rust. these are hard to fix on a van without the inside being converted to a motorhome. some fixes need parts of the furniture and floor removing first

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PeteH

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As A "Ball Park". ANY corrosion within 12" of a structural feature, attachment point OR (say) the Seat belt anchorage is likely an AUTOMATIC, MOT failure. And should be treated with extreme caution. Surface rust, which can be cleaned off with a hand wire brush could be treated, and Painted.

BTW. I Loathe "under-seal" on old cars, used to hide a multitude of sins!. I am currently "Removing" 46 years worth!, and replacing in the order of several sgM of Steel. So far I have used half a 25kg reel of 6mm welding wire! replacing panels and seam welding.
 

xulih

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TBH if it has no MOT and needs welding that you can see, it will also need welding where you can not see. To make it a worth while project you would need to get it for free, honestly I have a shed full and garden full of such like projects as proof ! If it needs so little for MOT it would have an MOT.Find something that is usable and spend your weekends using it and not crawling about getting molten metal running down your neck, rust and crap in your eyes while lying on your back then smashing your head on underside of van in your panic to wriggle out and extinguish your flaming overalls :LOL:
 
Aug 18, 2011
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Walk away,,once the tin worm starts you will be paying for welding every MOT..BUSBY,,

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Charlie

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I refer to my previous comment. Get the blooming thing examined. No one here can say for sure cos we can't see the van.? If you've looked for ages like you say you have and it's what you want and suits your needs get it looked at .?

You really need to get Any van looked at if you are not up to it yourself !
 
Jun 10, 2013
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Hi

I know it's a pain seeing a vehicle and being very interested in it and then finding question marks over it, but as others have said this one is crying out 'walk away'. There's always another vehicle out there, and it's worth holding out for FSH, not too high mileage, fresh, no obvious issues and -then- get an independent base vehicle and pre sale hab check.

I have bought vehicles not following all of the above and then my first trips have been to the ATM ... ;(

Marc

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