What`s the difference... ?? (1 Viewer)

[DBK]

Don't know if this has been covered but as a rule of thumb don't use a shutter speed slower than the focal distance of the lens if you are holding the camera by hand. For example, don't go slower than 1/500th of a second with a 500 mm lens and 1/250th of a second on a 250 mm lens. And so on. It isn't a hard and fast rule but go much further away from these speeds and blurred shots will probably result.

 

[gomotorhome]

The Shutter speed vs Focal Length rule of thumb is a good rule but Image-stabilised lenses can overrule it. It applies to camera-shake though and not moving subjects.

Image-stabilisation doesn't help with motion-blur and quick-moving animals need a high shutter speed whatever the focal length.

 

[gomotorhome]

Old-Mo. What lenses have you got?

If you are willing to post some images you think have problems then we can try to figure out a solution.

Before you get too disheartened though remember that almost nothing is as hard to photograph as wildlife.
It's not just you.... every wildlife photographer has 100x more junk images than good ones
David Attenborough never shows you the 30,000 hours of footage on the editing room floor.

The main problem with Wildlife photography is its dependence on quite specialised gear (Typically expensive) to get "Wow factor" results.

For example. A Serious pro Wildlife photographer would carry something like the Canon 400 f/2.8 lens.
They may add a 2x converter to give it extra reach (800mm or an equivalent 1200mm on most enthusiast DSLRs).
Now we are in telescope territory.
That lens can focus in an instant. It lets loads of light through so you can use fast shutter-speeds at low ISO.

It's perfect right? Not quite.... The lens and 2x converter is an £8,000 package ! (You may also need a mate to help carry it).

What would I do if I wanted to get serious about taking photos of birds?

I'd go to a Hawk Sanctuary with all my gear. I'd see what my gear could do in a controlled environment.
I'd come away with the knowledge that maybe my best lens is my 200mm but that it's only worth using on birds up to 40 feet away.
Then I'd go looking for birds up to 40 feet away and not bother taking photos that are just tiny blurred brown blobs in the distance on a brown marsh (This is what most bird photos I have ever seen resemble).

Look online for "Best Wildlife Photographs". When you find ones you really like, and want to emulate, try to figure out why you like it.

I bet the background is nice, and in keeping with the subject.
I bet it's tack-sharp, especially the eyes.
I bet it's nicely framed
I bet the lighting is nice, backlit, early morning, sunset.. but almost never the middle of the day.
I bet the photographer got up at 5am and then sat waiting for 3-4 hours getting cold and hungry.

Good luck, it's tough to get right but amazing when you do.

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[old-mo]

What lenses have you got?

If you are willing to post some images you think have problems then we can try to figure out a solution.

A Nikon DX 18 - 55... A Vivitar series1 f=500mm, and a Tamron AF 70-300 tele Macro..

And a pile of clip on thingy`s... Like Fish Eye... Wide angle etc, etc.. load of filters and other stuff that came with the package..

I think as my misses say`s it`s me and I am a bit thick knowing what to use when..

If Funsters ever have a get to know your camera meet, I will try to get along..

 

[Geo]

Mo
Just 3 questions
And 1 request
1. When are you thinking of trying out the "Flash"
2. What part of the UK will you be in
3. Have you decided what quantity and grade of "Black Powder you will be using

Request,
Can you give us at least 3 days notice, as a lot of us would like to come see this event
G

 

[Photo4x4]

I`ll pay your fuel .... come over and show me how to drive the stupid bloody camera....

Or you could come up to the Highlands for a holiday and book a couple of days out with me!

KH

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[Anthea M]

Did you take the lens cap off?!

 

[DBK]

A Nikon DX 18 - 55... A Vivitar series1 f=500mm, and a Tamron AF 70-300 tele Macro..

And a pile of clip on thingy`s... Like Fish Eye... Wide angle etc, etc.. load of filters and other stuff that came with the package..

I think as my misses say`s it`s me and I am a bit thick knowing what to use when..

If Funsters ever have a get to know your camera meet, I will try to get along..

The DX format uses a sensor about two thirds the size of 35mm film. This creates a "crop factor" which means compared to a 35mm camera the focal length is 1.5 times bigger. So your 500mm lens is the same as a 750mm lens on a "conventional" camera.

I suspect you will struggle to get great shots with this lens without a good tripod (mine cost over £100 and is hardly top of the range) and the images may not be as sharp as you would like and may be a bit flat.

You could also look at what you can do with the photos after you have taken them. You can get a monthly subscription for Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop for about £8 a month, which is what I have. Photoshop is a beast and I have only dipped a toe into it but it's ability to remove things like powerlines from photos is awesome.

Lightroom is much easier to use and has presets to add "punch" to images and others to give your pictures more impact - though the effects can be overdone.

If you ever come Plymouth way I can give you a demo.

The picture below has been mangled by me, an expert will no doubt rubbish it, but I've taken out some pylons on the skyline and enhanced the colour of the flowers. The picture below it is the original. Amateurish no doubt but it keeps me amused.

 

[Deleted member 29692]

A Vivitar series1 f=500mm

I suspect you will struggle to get great shots with this lens without a good tripod (mine cost over £100 and is hardly top of the range) and the images may not be as sharp as you would like and may be a bit flat.

Not sure whether it's a fixed or zoom one but either way that lens is f/8 at 500mm. That isn't going to be helping wildlife, or any other type of action shot.

I agree with DBK, a tripod will be essential although even with one unless it's a very bright sunny day you just won't be able to get the shutter speeds you need.

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[Deleted member 29692]

For example. A Serious pro Wildlife photographer would carry something like the Canon 400 f/2.8 lens.
They may add a 2x converter to give it extra reach (800mm or an equivalent 1200mm on most enthusiast DSLRs).
Now we are in telescope territory.
That lens can focus in an instant. It lets loads of light through so you can use fast shutter-speeds at low ISO.

It's perfect right? Not quite.... The lens and 2x converter is an £8,000 package ! (You may also need a mate to help carry it).

Sod the converter. More trouble than they're worth especially because you lose 2 full f-stops when you use it. That's not so bad in your example because the proper 800 is f/5.6 anyway but with other lenses it can make them pretty much useless unless the light is perfect.

If you really need 800mm, which you very seldom truly do, then hire the Canon EF 800mm lens for the job. Now that thing is a beast, just a shame it's so expensive.

 

[Deleted member 29692]

And a pile of clip on thingy`s... Like Fish Eye... Wide angle etc, etc.. load of filters and other stuff that came with the package..

Forget the filters until you're happy using the camera without them.

 

[Deleted member 29692]

Trouble is Jim........... using auto focus I have to do the samee as with my Sony Digital...... ie....... hold the shutter thing down half way while it focuses.... then press again to take the photo...

And by the time I have done that and taken the photo.... the bird is half a mile away..

You will have a focus mode on your camera called AF-C (AI Servo for Canon people)

To explain it in simple terms this means that if you keep your finger half pressed it and keep it pointed at a moving object the camera will automatically keep focused. When you're ready to take the picture just press the button the rest of the way.
It can take a little getting used to but once you do it will change your action shots dramatically.

Bit more Nikon info here: http://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/dslr/basics/16/03.htm

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[Deleted member 29692]

The picture below has been mangled by me, an expert will no doubt rubbish it, but I've taken out some pylons on the skyline and enhanced the colour of the flowers. The picture below it is the original. Amateurish no doubt but it keeps me amused.

Looks a pretty decent job to me.

It's always tricky in an image like that to get the yellows looking really punchy without doing strange things to the greens.

 

[gomotorhome]

As others have said the Vivitar 500 f/8 is cumbersome and slow (doesn't let much light in..which is what you pay the big money for).

You're up against it because you'll really need to be shooting a shutter-speed of 1/1000 or 1/2000 so a bright sunny day will be your best friend.

All is not lost though, my summary from the first post still stands:

- ISO = AUTO
- Shutter Speed = 1/500, or 1/1000..or 1/2000 (but start with 1/500) ** minimum of 1/1000 with your 500mm) **
- Mode = Shutter Priority
- Focus points = Centre one only.
- AUTO Focus
AND.....

- a Monopod. Actually better than a Tripod for grabbing Bird photos when you are out and about.
1) They are cheap.(I paid £30 for the pretty decent Manfrotto Advanced. (Get Carbon fibre if money no object because you will be even more inclined to carry it)
2) They take the weight of the lens (and make it easy t ocarry the camera and lens over your shoulder when you are walking)
3) You can react quicker than with a Tripod
4) They make a good walking stick when you are hopping over rocks and cliff-tops
5) They make a good riot baton should you need to beat off angry Swans (Just joking animal lovers).
6) MOST IMPORTANTLY.. you'll probably take it with you.
Taking a Tripod is such a drag. They are for those times when you dedicate a day on your own to take photos. They just aren't compatible with a walk with the wife.
7) They transform your videos into professional looking works.

Don't get me wrong, Tripods are an essential piece of kit (especially if you are going to sit in a hide all day at a Bird Sanctuary)but the best kit is the kit you have with you.

I'd consider a monopod an essential part of a 500mm(750mm) unstabilised f/8 lens.
I reckon it would transform your results. I don't believe anyone can handhold that lens and get sharp results.
There's nothing like feathers for revealing that a photo is blurred.

There's a wonderful moment of realisation, when you first use a tripod/monopod, that nothing has ever been truly sharp before.

 

[DBK]

Thanks for the suggestion about a monopod - something else to save up for along with the Macro lens I want.

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[gomotorhome]

Thanks for the suggestion about a monopod - something else to save up for along with the Macro lens I want.

Fortunately Monopods are one of the cheaper investments you can make towards a decent photo.

As I mentioned £30 gets you a perfectly decent Manfrotto.

 

[gomotorhome]

Thanks for the suggestion about a monopod - something else to save up for along with the Macro lens I want.

Extension tubes (see Ebay) are a cheap way into Macro while you save for that lovely piece of Glass.