Waxoil and underbody care. (1 Viewer)

[Sweeney-todds]

Hi again

All these questionsoh:

Have looked at the underside of the Rienza, and its nice and clean:thumb:
However, there are very small rust discolurations starting to show in places.

Was thinking of wax oiling the cavities etc with a do it yourself kit....but will the do it yourself kit be up to the job?

Has anyone in DEVON had it done by a proffessional....if so....where please??
How much should it cost.?

There are two types of waxoil from what I can see, a light one for cavities in sub frames and body panels ect, and a thicker black one for the underbody.

At the momment, there isnt any under there.

Anyone else used the do it yourself method, any tips and advice welcomed:thumb:

Thanks.


Bill & Lorraine

 

[Brisey]

Hi Sweeny todds

These people are based in Poole, Rustbusters UK - Protecting your investment professionally in the UK

 

[Sweeney-todds]

Hi Brisey.

Thank you for the link:thumb:



Bill and Lorraine

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[weejohnw]

wax works

Hi there, I have a collection of classic cars and have used waxoil on them all, it really does prevent rust from forming. You can mix it with painthinners to make it more runny for cavities and door panels etc. Do not spray waxoil onto a rusty area, as it only covers it, prepare the rusty are, repaint it even with an undercoat, then spray the waxoil on.
I have just this past few months waxoiled my new MH, it will help keep the chassis fresh for years.
The profesionals do do a great job, but if you have the facilities you can do it yourself for a whole lot less. The prof guys spend a great deal of time on preparation - most people just get the waxoil out and spray it on. Preparation of the area - cleaning- before you spray is the thing to do.
Regards Weejohn

 

[olley]

Hi years ago I had a Sherpa van Ziebarted, they blocked all the drain holes in the cills with their gunk, result; the cills rusted through after 5 years. :Angry:

Olley

 

[Geo]

Before you use the "Professionals" do your home work, unfortunately the link to the pics has gone, they were horrendous, maybe he got satisfaction and closed the link or it expired we may never know the outcome
see posts Link Removed there is mention of costs
Geo

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[Johno]

Hi Bill & Lorraine

Do you intend to keep the Rienza for a long time ?, if you do I think it is worth while having the rust proofing carried out professionally, if not then all you will be doing is protecting the vehicle for future owners.

Best wishes John.

 

[strathspey]

Hi again









Anyone else used the do it yourself method, any tips and advice welcomed:thumb:



Hi Bill & Lorraine,

I have just finished waxoyling my Hymer.
The Waxoyl spray device is a poor affair - not really up to the job.
For spraying into cavities I used a cleaned, domestic cleaning-fluid sparyer. The waxoyl was diluted (about 10%) with white spirit.
For other areas you can reach with a brush, use the thicker, black version of Waxoyl.
I have used this method on many vehicles over the years and have had no rust problems.
Good luck.
strathspey.

 

[Sweeney-todds]

Hi Everyone

Thank you all so much for your help and advice....much appreciated.
Looking at the pro's and cons....I think Ill do it myself!!

Might try one of those pump up garden spays with the lance to get into the awkward spots, and the easier bits too....if it costs £50.....its better than having doubts about other peoples possible shoddy work.

I guess a little is better than none at all.....oh well here goes

Now....wheres me mask...gloves..........


Bill & Lorraine

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[weejohnw]

wax works, it really does

Garden sprayer a waste of time IMO, too difficult to clean out afterwards, borrow a compressor from someone and then you can use the waxoil neat without having to dilute it at all. Waxoil is quite thick and there is not enough ooooooomph in a garden sprayer to work effectively. this will only pray it in blurbs instead of a mist in the way that the compressor would fire it out
Weejohn

 

[pappajohn]

hi,
is your van built on the original factory chassis or is it an Alko chassis conversion.
if its an Alko you dont need to do anything to it as its galvanized but the original chassis front end and cab areas would benifit from a dose of zybart:thumb:

 

[Sweeney-todds]

Hi Weejohn.

Compressor it is then.......dont want blurps on the van:thumb:

Thank You.



Bill & Lorraine

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[Sweeney-todds]

Hi Pappajohn.

Have not got a clue if its factory or Alko......, hope it is an Alko, would save a lot of bother

How can I find out.....its an "Autosleeper Rienza" Ford transit cab.


The plot thickens


Bill & Lorraine

 

[Sweeney-todds]

Pappajohn.

Just had a look around, and its a Ford Chassisoh:


Bill and Lorraine

 

[cater_racer]

I've done my last two Motorhomes, using Dinatrol it's highly effective and I used the aerosols from a company called "Frost". It's not a particularly pleasant job, and I would recommend a throw away body suit, I can however say that my 8 year old Fiat based mcLouis was in A1 condition when I sold it and present Motorhome will see me out!

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[pappajohn]

Pappajohn.

Just had a look around, and its a Ford Chassisoh:


Bill and Lorraine

well worth protecting it then.....if you do it yourself make sure you get ALL the road muck and mud off first.
mucky, wet job but get under it with the hose pipe and jet nozzle, or pressure washer.
if you dont you're only locking it in under the zybart.

 

[Sweeney-todds]

Hi Pappajohn...



It will be clean enough to eat your scallops off:thumb:



Bill & Lorraine

 

[Sweeney-todds]

Hi Cater_Racer.


Thank you.......and I hope YOU will see your new van out, not verse visa:thumb:


Bill & Lorraine