Using a domestic fridge for camping (1 Viewer)

[Triple7]

I thought I would report back on my initial experiences using a domestic fridge for those with an interest in considering the same. I posted previously on the issue (3 way fridges) so this is an update.

So far after a month or so of fairly heavy weekend off roading I've not experienced any issues. My £40 second hand fridge freezer seems to be performing as well as it did on day 1 despite some serious shaking about. So its certainly passed it's first test.

Also modern fridges don't draw much power. I'm running with a 1kw invertor and 400ah battery bank and basically I don't have to pay any attention to what the fridge is doing. I think anything over 200ah bank is more than adequate. The draw is more variable than I first thought. It's mostly not running the compressor but when it is, the draw can vary between 4 and 7amps. This never lasts long so even taking into account the time of year I don't expect energy requirements to be an issue. I have provision for external fan cooling but I'm putting off fitting this until I am certain of the long term viability.

The remaining issue is the one discussed in the previous post. Long term fatigue on parts like the compressor mounts. While they have survived some severe short term shaking , I would expect this to shorten the life span. By how much is the question.

Since the last post I've been looking at new 3 way fridges just to see what is available. To be honest I was shocked at the prices. Well over £1000 for an equivalent to my £110 ( new price) fridge freezer. It's hard to say what an acceptable life span should be for a domestic fridge in this application given the huge price difference but of course price isn't the only consideration.

Overall I would say that if you are considering changing fridges, do not need to make major mods to your van and have the battery capacity then it's worth considering. But I personally wouldn't go hacking about in my van just yet until a few people could report back on the long term reliability issue. That is the main ( and probably only) concern. The often mentioned issue of excessive energy consumption might have been true in the past before low energy fridges were introduced and battery banks were small but it doesn't hold up any longer.

Hope this post has been helpful. I will try and report back after the summer and let people know how I got on.

 

[DBK]

@vwalan has used a domestic 'fridge in his truck for years without problems. I think the compressors generally have resilient mountings so they shouldn't suffer from travelling.

 

[Steve]

Hi it looks like the gas valve on my 3 way fridge/freezer has failed the cost to replace the part high so I may well go down the same route as you have can I have a pic of the one that you have and possible some dimensions.
Steve

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[Triple7]

Hi it looks like the gas valve on my 3 way fridge/freezer has failed the cost to replace the part high so I may well go down the same route as you have can I have a pic of the one that you have and possible some dimensions.
Steve

If you have a look at my earlier thread someone posted a link to an identical model. There are a few manufacturers of this size which is 85cms tall and was the lowest one I could find which had a separate freezer compartment.

 

[Tootles]

Hope this post has been helpful. I will try and report back after the summer and let people know how I got on.

I tried this on our narrowboat some years ago, using, like you, an old 220v fridge running through a 2KW inverter, and a battery bank of six 110 amp batteries. The draw was about 7 amps, plus an amp per hour to keep the inverter on line, at 12 volts. Also, these batteries were also used for pumps, lighting etc. Usually, there is no gas capability for a fridge on a boat. It of coarse is viable, but can come to grief when the boat requires its four yearly MOT test. (Venting the fumes).
In the end, I returned to a 12 volt fridge, and only because the batteries were getting hell knocked out of them, and an inverter shut down during the night was not really good for the fridge contents. The problem mainly was on the fridge start up, when the compressor requires many more amps to get it going. And as for a motorhome, I would have thought that the amount of batteries required would knock hell out of the weight limits?

 

[Triple7]

I tried this on our narrowboat some years ago, using, like you, an old 220v fridge running through a 2KW inverter, and a battery bank of six 110 amp batteries. The draw was about 7 amps, plus an amp per hour to keep the inverter on line, at 12 volts. Also, these batteries were also used for pumps, lighting etc. Usually, there is no gas capability for a fridge on a boat. It of coarse is viable, but can come to grief when the boat requires its four yearly MOT test. (Venting the fumes).
In the end, I returned to a 12 volt fridge, and only because the batteries were getting hell knocked out of them, and an inverter shut down during the night was not really good for the fridge contents. The problem mainly was on the fridge start up, when the compressor requires many more amps to get it going. And as for a motorhome, I would have thought that the amount of batteries required would knock hell out of the weight limits?

Thanks that is interesting. Although my fridge is second hand it's less than a year old. I'm not able to monitor the total draw but it only runs between 4 and 7 for relatively short periods of time at the moment. Also your inverter must be less efficient. Mine draws .3 amps . How old were your batteries and alternator? 600 amps is a lot!

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[Tootles]

Also your inverter must be less efficient.

Probably correct, it's getting on a bit now.

600 amps is a lot!

Not really, when you consider that you may be in one place without the engine running for up to a week. I change the batteries as and when. I always know when one has lost a cell. The alternator is 90 amp battery sensed, as opposed to a vehicle alternator which is machine sensed. Most boats have these, because there is no need for machine sensed when you haven't got wipers and a heater.
As I said in my last post, what was bu**ering up the 220 volt fridge was the load being taken off by the Dan Foss compressor on start up. When the batteries start getting a tad low, and the fridge resides 25' away from the batteries, (and even using 10mm cable), the thing just spent the night trying to fire up. Got around that a bit, by putting a gel battery in a locker next to the fridge, and using the cables from the main batteries to charge the gel, as well as run the unit. Because of the 1 volt drop off in the cables, the gel cant back feed to the main bank.......If all this makes sense.

 

[Triple7]

Yes that all makes sense. I think your post just illustrates how individual each person's situation. Hopefully this will help others☺