Two Go to France (1 Viewer)

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I mentioned earlier we are staying at a site called Trez Rouz, which I took to be just another bit of Breton gobbledygook. Well it is Breton of course but it means Red Beach and the beach was red because of blood. English blood! :Eeek:

In 1694 the English thought they could attack the French fleet at Brest so a force of 8000 soldiers was despatched and they landed on the beach below our campsite.

And were roundly thrashed.

The villain, from the English perspective was de Vauban, he of the Ville Close fortifications at Concarneau fame which I mentioned earlier.

De Vauban was forewarned of the English fleet's arrival and this allowed him to send for reinforcements which arrived only just in time after the English postponed their attack due to fog.

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This was de Vauban's only field command and we can be grateful the French don't make more of the English defeat than the discrete sign above. After all, we built a railway station to commemorate Waterloo.

Vauban had been busy in Camaret just a few years earlier when he built a tower which you can see in its orange paint from the other side of the bay as you approach Camaret along the coastal path.

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The tower is closed for refurbishment so we must come back when it is open.

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Beside the tower is a little church, Notre Dame de Rocamadour.

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Students of ecclesiastical architecture might spot the tip of the spire is missing - it was shot off by an English cannon ball during the battle of 1694 and the damage was left unrepaired in remembrance of the battle. Or perhaps they didn't have a long enough ladder?

There is a graveyard of wooden-hulled fishing boats next to the little church.

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After a monster lunch of moules, so many I couldn't finish them, we returned on the path and had another view of the beach where the battle was fought.

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The English force was led by General Tollemache who sounds a bit gung ho as he ignored an instruction to call off the attack. A decision which cost him his life when he was struck in the thigh by a cannon ball fired from a battery on a cliff above the beach. The cliff is now known as Maro ar saozon or Englishman's death. We will explore the coastal path in that direction tomorrow.

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We turned right outside the site this morning and followed the coastal path around the peninsula.

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Our start point was a bit below the bottom of the above map and we followed the red line clockwise around the coast. Note the number of fortifications. The grid squares are kilometres.

The first part of the path was over a moorland of foot high gorse and bell heather.

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It wasn't long before we came across the first of the many fortifications, late 19th Century these ones I think.

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One fort was built on a rocky outcrop reached by a bridge.

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We had seen a couple of choughs yesterday and today we came across a group of eight or nine, you might just be able to see the red bill although their distinctive cry is the easiest way to identify them.

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As we approached the tip of the peninsula a large cruise ship turned up. The "Epic" owned by a Norwegian cruise line.

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The end of the peninsula is called the Pointe des Espagnols and from it you can get a good view of distant Brest. The tide was flooding very strongly at the time, this being a time of very big equinoctial tides. We could just make out the German U Boat pens.

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It took us two and a half hours to reach this point but despite being exposed it proved a warm spot to eat our lunch in the sun.

The point gets it names from a Spanish force which landed at the end of the 16th Century.

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The 400 Spanish held out for a month, virtually all of them being killed in the defence against a combined French and English force.

The fort the Spanish built has disappeared but below the point, just above sea level and not visible from above is a battery built by de Vauban as part of his defences around Brest.

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A Napoleonic fort is also here and annoyingly it had been open to the public last weekend but was now closed. There are also fortifications built by the Germans here. It has proved a popular spot over the centuries.

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These forts were built to a standard design so they could be built quickly.

We returned down the eastern side of the peninsula by the roads as the GR footpath wiggled all over the place, but it still took us two hours and it was hot in the sun.

A couple of mugs of Earl Grey tea worked their magic and a cold bottle of Bretagne cider afterwards helped even more.

Four and a half hours walking probably meant we did about 12 miles or a little more, and it felt like it!
 
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As you can only include ten images in each post I didn't include this one in the above but I thought I would say something about as it has an interesting story.

I've learned it is worth investigating unusual place names, such as the name of this site, Trez Rouz, the beach red with blood.

Towards the end of today's walk we came near the Île des Morts or Island of the Dead as I translate it with my school French.

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Hard to see but behind is another, larger island, Trébéron, which in 1720 became a place where lepers were sent. The dead from here were buried on the smaller island giving it its name.

Then along came Napoleon and the need for a larger gunpowder store as the British were blockading Brest. The convicts from Brest jail were turfed out and told to level the top of the island so three large stores could be built, which can still be seen today.

The island is now part of the military zone and not open to the public.
 
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Jul 29, 2014
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I am totally fed up with this thread.:(
Jealousy keeps popping up it's ugly head everytime DBK posts yet another bit of the saga.:whistle:
At least Mousy & Co gave me a rest from this constant feeling by coming home, but not you. Oh no.:unsure:
You just keep on finding more and more fascinating places and then make it all even worse by putting up photos of them. It just isn't fair.;)
Wish someone would come along and buy our house so we could retire and then make others feel the same.:sneaky:
 

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Hi dbk ,I enjoy your posts very much , the old forts and Neolithic sites are of great interest

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We've just pulled into the aire at Landernau, #108 in All the Aires. €6 for 24 hours including free electricity as a number of the pitches have EHU - the place is a former campsite, probably municipal.

We will go for a wander after lunch to see the famous bridge and regretfully @Fenman I feel duty bound to post pictures! :)
 
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We've just pulled into the aire at Landernau, #108 in All the Aires. €6 for 24 hours including free electricity as a number of the pitches have EHU - the place is a former campsite, probably municipal.

We will go for a wander after lunch to see the famous bridge and regretfully @Fenman I feel duty bound to post pictures! :)

Oh well, if you must.:rolleyes:
 
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The centre of Landerneau is quite historic and revolves around the Pont de Rohan, which is a rare structure as it is a bridge with houses on it.

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The tide was out so it probably looks a bit odd but later, when the tide came in it looked a bit more bridge-like.

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On the bridge itself you would hardly know you were on a bridge as it looks just like a normal street.

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I couldn't get a photograph of the other side as the sun was shining directly in my eyes. Not that I am complaining - it is pleasantly hot in the sun although it is noticeably low in the sky by mid-afternoon.

The Tourist Office is closed on Mondays so we couldn't get a street map but we explored the streets either side of the bridge to look at the old houses.

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There is an information panel near each of the historic buildings.

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And the house it refers to.

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When we got back to the aire I moved pitch as we couldn't get a TV signal from the dish. Sad really, we can go for weeks in Spain and not miss it but here in Brittany knowing we can get the BBC it is frustrating when you can't because someone planted a tree in the wrong place.

Or someone parked their MH in the wrong place...
 
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Before leaving Landernau I scuttled back to the bridge to try and get a shot from upstream.

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You can see two arches where the water is flowing but water also flows off to the left along a channel before turning right and flowing under the bridge. It was hard to photograph it all because as you went upstream the river curves and you soon lose sight of the whole bridge. I did take several shots from the best position and I will stick them together to make a panorama when I get back home.

I also stopped by at the house of the Treize Lunes or Thirteen Moons, although we could only see ten and some of those were very indistinct. The moons are high on the wall but with a long lens I got shots of the best of them. They are about five inches in diameter.

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After just one night inland the call of the sea was strong so our next stop was at the aire at Portsall on the north west corner of Finistère, #131 in the Brittany section of All the Aires and #12177 in CamperContact. This is a very pleasant grass aire with a very good service point. Lots of room for us, it was like camping in a field.

Portsall's notoriety is the Amoco Cadiz struck the rocks here and polluted a lot of the coastline but nothing can between of this today although the rocks, their size amplified by the exceptionally low tide, looked fearsome.

It was a gentle one kilometre walk to Portsall where there was a nice bar where we could sit in the sun with a beer out of the cold wind blowing from the east.

The next day we invented a new game for us although I expect others have played it. The game is called "Find the aire" and you play it by visiting several aires trying to find one you actually want to stop at. You will also find aires which have closed, #112 in All the Aires now has a height barrier and ones closed for the winter, #113, both at St Pol de Leon.

Before that we looked at the aire at Plouscat - in a supermarket carpark next to the car washing facilities, a cemetery #115 in "Aires" which was naturally very quiet on one side but after having lunch there we decided the constant drone from the road was going to irritate us.

So off you go again, #99 at Penze was OK but the village restaurant looked a bit tatty and as we wanted to eat out this got the thumbs down too. Then to Carentec, #98, which has good services but no obvious place to park. It is also on the top of a hill. I think you are supposed to park near the path to the tennis courts but it wasn't marked and it was a very windy hill.

So we gave up and went back to Camping du Port, on the coast west of Tregastel €14 a night including 15 amp electricity. This has a restaurant, where we have eaten before but after booking in we discovered it was now closed for the winter!

But today we walked the coastal footpath to Tregastel Place where we had a very good menu of the day, €13.50 including pud. The place looked nothing special on the outside but inside it was heaving and we only just got a table at 12.30. That it seemed to be the only place serving food may have been something to do with it but the food was very tasting and good value. It was couscous with chicken, lamb and a spicy sausage. There was also a separate bowl of a hot chilli sauce which I helped myself to liberally having been after a chilli-fix since the paella I made a couple weeks ago which I thought could have done with more chilli but my dining partner certainly didn't agree with that! A half litre of wine was only €7 which is good by restaurant standards.

The tides are big here normally but they are very big at the moment. This was our pitch last night at high tide. I'm glad the wind wasn't stronger and from the south, otherwise we might have got wet!

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And from the same position at low tide.

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vwalan

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hi, when you were at plouscat i would have headed north to kerfissien a nice small harboured port and beach .more a pier than a port really. car park by the beach ,restaurant in the village .
was a favourite of ours a few years ago. might have changed but was great.

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We stayed just 200 metres further down the road form the aire at Plouescat (are you sure you were at the right one?)

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Spicy sausage would probably be merguez, theoretically made from mutton. The hot sauce would more than likely be harissa, sounds like cous cous royale. Very nice, tempting me on one of my diet days:)
 
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Spicy sausage would probably be merguez, theoretically made from mutton. The hot sauce would more than likely be harissa, sounds like cous cous royale. Very nice, tempting me on one of my diet days:)
Yes it was merguez. Until I looked it up I was half expecting the Spanish megas, fried bread crumbs or flour. And yes I think the sauce was harrisa based, it was the right colour.

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Yes it was merguez. Until I looked it up I was half expecting the Spanish megas, fried bread crumbs or flour. And yes I think the sauce was harrisa based, it was the right colour.

I have had the cous cous several times in the past but only found out that the sauce is basically harissa this summer by asking the very nice English speaking lady owner of a restaurant in Pornichet.

I tried my own version later and simply watered down the hasrisa paste from a tube, I may have added to it(usually do) but can't remember now.

One of the problems with my style of cooking combined with getting old is that I can never remember exactly what went into a dish and can never replicate anything exactly.........sometimes wouldn't want to anyway!!:)
 
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We stayed just 200 metres further down the road form the aire at Plouescat (are you sure you were at the right one?)
There are two aires in CamperContact, one on the edge of town which is in the supermarket parking and one without services on the point to the west, which I guess is the one you parked near. It was blowing a gale so we didn't fancy the sand dunes. I was after the one by the town so we could visit it to eat out and see the historic covered market. We will have to leave that for another day now.
 
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We've been carrying round with us a box of herbs on the trip: mint, basil, chives and parsley. The parsley was used with moules, the chives for potato salad and the mint and basil virtually every day in salad. The mint was a surprise hit in salad but it went well with slivers of courgette cut with a potato peeler, cucumber and tomatoes mixed together in a bowl with olive oil. This is what they looked like at the start of the trip.

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The box sits outside unless it is very wet when it lives on the dashboard. We had it outside last night and when we woke up we found this.

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We had been visited by a rabbit! Not a disaster as we were going to chuck them away today as we are on the ferry tomorrow, but we obviously need to find somewhere else for them on the next trip as we have grown used to having fresh herbs on hand.

Of course there is now a herb-flavoured rabbit running around which might be very tasty. A ready made lapin à herb. It was interesting to see the rabbit left the chives, very sensible as they were strongly flavoured.

It was a beautifully calm morning with the sun shining through thin clouds. This was the view from our pitch and the scene of the rabbit outrage.

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But we had to tear ourselves away as we were meeting some friends at the aire outside Roscoff.

After lunch consisting of a very large artichoke (think sunflower size) filled with bits of bacon, local onions and topped with a poached egg we went for a wander around Roscoff.

This house dates from the time when the sea came up almost to its walls, before the road along the seafront was built. It has an unusual feature - the dark ovals near ground level are gun ports apparently. Designed to discourage those onion-stealing English no doubt.

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The old bit of Roscoff is worth exploring and shouldn't be considered as a launch pad from which to explore the rest of France.

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Our friend Helen is a keen geocacher and found this one outside the Tourist Office.

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Note the é in géocache - and the descriptions in the app are all in French too - great way of learning French.

The next cache was near the Chapple St Barbe, a saint Roscoff fishermen would prey to for a safe voyage as apparently did the Onion Jonnies before crossing to the UK to sell their eye-watering produce.

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This one was a bit harder to find.

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But we did in the end.

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Tomorrow the ferry. :cry: So I will sign off with a picture of Roscoff's most famous product - but they make fine artichokes here too - we bought a dozen for a euro from a guy who visited the aire and half a dozen eggs from him as well, also for a euro.

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France, I salute you! We will return.

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vwalan

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hi. you should have took a pic of the onion house in the town .
they say roscoff was the start of onion johhnies coming to the uk.
years ago before the ferry started .
if you or anyone gets chance do stay a night in roscoff its full of history etc .
mind was better when the aire was up by the little church on the hill.
just a short walk on a cliff path away from the port. the vet at 5rue saint-yves
29250 saint pol de leon
tel 02-98-69-29-11
used to speak english and was very helpfull.
havent used him for a while . but was ok.
have a good crossing dbk,s
could be a bit rough looking at the weather charts , fingers crossed for you.
 
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Many thanks for the postings. Sad that it has to come to an end. Safe journey for the last bit back.
 
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they will return . brittany is definately a special place.
i,m sure they will have a few more adventures in brittany .
years ago in spring or autumn it was 50 quid return for a 5 day trip. we used to go, at least once a month .
it really is the most interesting area in france .
. roscoff try and keep the sea on your right and away you go.
but nice one dbk.
i can see a travel book on the horizon . hee hee .
drink coca cola on the ferry if its rough.
 
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vwalan

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it works though ,believe me .
my dad was in the royal navy and merchant navy . he told me about it .
but safe crossing .
might even have a ride up and see you before i disappear.
two sugars .

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it works though ,believe me .
my dad was in the royal navy and merchant navy . he told me about it .
but safe crossing .
might even have a ride up and see you before i disappear.
two sugars .
Be delighted to see you again before you leave!
 
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After a lazy day on Sunday we headed south on Monday but only as far as St Aignan, a little village beside Mur de Bretagne. There is a aire in the village but it was packed solid. CamperContact says it has room for five but French motorhomes must be smaller as there were eight of them! However all was not lost as the Commune de Sainte Aignan have set up a seasonal aire with seventy places on the sports field on the edge of the village. This proved very peaceful, grass under foot and a drive over waste point. Only down side was there was only one fresh water tap and that was over the cassette emptying point which itself was of such a narrow bore your offerings to it are reluctant to descend. I was about to call Mary and ask if she could find a stick when I noticied others had had the same problems and a couple of well worn sticks were lying by my foot. With these I was able to encourage things to follow the hint from gravity and seek the nearest sewage treatment plant.

All of which is getting ahead of matters because after we arrived the previous day we went for a walk on the marked footpath to the Lac de Guerlédan, which was ultimately unsuccessful as the Lac had vanished!

A bit of history. Before Napoleon learned his place he started the building of a canal from Nantes to Brest so goods could be moved from Nantes to the major naval port of Brest inland and away from the marauding British. The canal had only a brief life like those in the UK but the towpath now makes a fine cycle route and I cycled the full length of it a couple of years ago.

Except for the bit at the Lac de Guerlédan because this reservoir, opened in 1930, flooded a section of the canal and many locks so now cyclists have to turn off the towpath and pass through Mur de Bretagne, which I now know as Murder Bretagne as the hill you are forced up is evily steep. My brother managed to cycle up it but I had to get off and walk!

This is the end of the Nantes-Brest canal below the dam (barrage).

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The abandoned house is the éclusiers or lockeeper's cottage. On other stretches of the canal these are often holiday gîtes decorated with flowers.

The dam from below looks as expected.

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But after a steep walk through the woods we got above the dam and found it was doing a better impersonation of a wall rather than a dam as there was no water behind it. The path was fenced off and visibility poor and this was the best view I could get of the upper side of the dam.

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Signs of fresh concrete suggest the dam has lasted less time than the canal. From what I could see of the lake it has been drained for a couple of years and I suspect it could take the same time to fill. It used to be popular for watersports but not any more and this may explain why St Aignan was a ghost town with closed shops. Even the bar was closed but that might have been because it was a Monday. Perhaps.

This morning, after wrestling with the black waste point as described in unnecessary detail earlier we drove down to the Morbihan and we have stopped at Larmor Baden which is a lovely little village and port. The reason for coming here is the Cairn de Gavrinis, a neolithic burial mound which has carvings inside it. At the time it was built the sea was considerably lower than it is today and now you can only reach it by boat. We have booked our tickets for tomorrow afternoon!
Lovely pictures and enjoying reading of your journey. The wife and I visited Lac de Guerlédan around the same time and found it empty. We arrived at the point of the Lac where you could walk down to the bottom of the Lac and follow the canal and see the buildings and water preserved trees normally under water. We returned a couple of years later to the same spot and the Lac was full again. A real "once in a lifetime" experience. Unfortunately the photos we took are on another device so can't upload
 
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