torque converter help / opinion (keep it simple please) (1 Viewer)

[DavidG58]

we have an odd 'issue' with our MH, we have recently found and eventually resolved a leak on our auto gearbox, may be a coincidence but while we had a leak we seemed to develop a problem

when cold we need a lot of revs to do anything, seems to be fine when run for a few minutes, so we now start up and leave on tick over for a few minutes before moving off

our pet mechanic thinks it is possibly the torque convertor, we have been back today to make sure enough oil was put back in and check for new leaks, both checked perfect

so he says it mat be the torque convertor and off the top of his head thinks a minimum £1K but hopefully not £2K

but he says, if it were mine I would start up and let it run for a few minutes, only cost a bit of diesel each time, there is a chance it might not be the torque convertor which would waste the money

I have no idea what this component even does, don't really need to know to be honest, but those of you that know about these things would you fix it or carry on doing as we do now?

 

[Peter & Elaine]

Have you changed oil and is there a filter
Old oil does break down after time and will slip
Has it overheated at any time this will break oil down as well
If you do change it beware of cheap oil make sure. It's a good qualty and correct grade
We get problems like this on cranes often and it is usually a simple fix
Mind at 25 grand for a recon gearbox you try owt first

 

[musson]

Have you tried a new filter and fresh oil, I would try this first its the cheapest and if it has never been change it needs doing anyway if it turns out to be the torque converter there was a company in canock chase that refurbs them but cannot remember name (its me age)

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[JeanLuc]

Mine is an older Merc auto box than yours (2003 and five speed) but very occasionally, when it is cold and I've just started up, it sometimes seems to take more revs than normal to 'grip' - particularly when manoeuvring out of the drive. I discussed this with the Mercedes technical help line and they thought there was nothing likely to be wrong - just the need to let the fluid warm up a bit which is best achieved by driving.
The service interval for fluid change on the auto box is 120,000 kms (75,000 miles) so I suspect yours is not in need of changing. Having said that, I had ours changed after purchase (second hand). That was about 40,000 miles ago so I've got some time to go before the next change.

 

[davejen]

Remember when you change the oil/filter that it has to get up to operating temp before you can check the level (unless the dipstick has cold & hot marks.
Hope this helps
Cheers, Dave

 

[DBK]

I find it very hard to think what could go wrong with a torque converter. Essentially it is like two propellers, one attached to the engine and the other attached, through gears to the wheels. When the engine side propellor turns it directs oil towards the other propellor and makes it turn as well. OK, it's not quite as simple as that as there is a third set of blades which sits between them and it is this which increases the torque (drive) to the wheels.

Providing it has the right oil in it what is to go wrong, unless the blades/vanes are hugely worn from running with contaminated oil for a very long time.

My advice would be to find a specialist autobox repairer and get their advice, unless you are sure your guy knows what he is doing, but diagnosing faults in these boxes can be very tricky.

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[DavidG58]

Thanks all, my technical skill is not far above nil, the gearbox oil was changed when the leak was thought to be the gearbox sump gasket, that was done less than 500 miles ago, the leak then got much worse and turned out to be a switch connection higher up that then ran down and round the sump gasket. That switch was replaced and the oil topped up

Mercedes issue (sell) a dipstick with hot and cold levels on it and a cap on the dip tube that has to be replaced each check

I don't know if the gearbox oil has a filter or if it was changed if there is one, I would disappointed if it wasn't if we have one, our mechanic is a long established family friend and he knows we have done whatever is needed

@JeanLuc I like this reply Philip, and hope that is going to be my solution, a few minutes tick over (provided it isn't before 08:00 on a rally field will be how we proceed. I think I am linking the leak with a worsening of the problem in my head rather than actual change

I really appreciate the input for all

 

[Sundowners]

If the oil is at all brown/burnt it most be changed-------I would start the engine (cold) and shift the gear selector through the gate pausing at each point before putting in drive and moving.-------The correct oil level is critical

 

[Peter & Elaine]

As a ex fitter my advice would often be
Let it develop

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[gus-lopez]

My car does it. Far as I am concerned it is a Maf/ecu fault .My auto.box oil is changed every 30k kms.
Mine only started doing it after the Maf was changed. Just let it run for 30 seconds or so.
Mine has been doing it 5 yrs & only does it on first start up , regardless of when it is. I.e. if I don't use the car until late afternoon on a July day where it is 70ºc+ inside the car & 40ºc ambient it will still do it.
If it was anything to do with temperature it wouldn't.

Just remembered the " keep it simple "
MAF= Mass air flow sensor.
here;

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass_flow_sensor

 

[jaygee]

Hi David
Have a word with MB there are several so called "flashes" which updates the ECU if problems occur.
This happens with many manufactures and is quite common, i know from experience that MB are one of the best company's to deal with even with older models.
Tony