Temperature setting (1 Viewer)

Christoph

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Apr 9, 2016
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VW California
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Hi, can't find a thread on this so here goes. Just back from a chilly and snowy trip to the Lancs fells. It was around 0 degrees in the evening so we set the Truma to 22 degrees but it didn't every get to that. Consequently the system was on permanently which isn't a problem in itself, just thought that it would have got to 22 degrees quite easily? The heater is a Truma 6 combi with the diesel option.

Are we doing something wrong? Is there an optimum temp setting or is it normal for it to run continuously?

Thanks
 
Jan 22, 2013
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A class Adria vision I707
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it totally depends on the MH insulation, if it's UK built it will invariably be less insulated than a european one,
My A class has double floors and good insulation top/bottom/sides and i need to turn the trauma4 down before retiring for the night.
insulated covers for the front window screen will help to keep the heat in,
 
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Zigisla

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Getting better month by month.
It will also depend on the position of the internal thermostat. If it is above the hab door; where mine is, it is a cold spot so the room is normally warmer than the 18 deg set. If you have a CP Panel, you can off set the room stat so you can get it to turn off the heating at the correct temp.

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Feb 9, 2008
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LP Coachbuilt
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It should handle those temperatures no problem. Were you using all fuel options? We find that once outside is below 5 degrees the gas is needed as well as the electric, especially if it's windy. A lot of people don't realise the gas + electric is 3 times more powerful than electric alone.
 
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Lenny HB

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Oct 18, 2007
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We have the C6 gas only it can turn the van into a furnace. Normally up to temp in 20-30 min unless there is a force 8 gale blowing then it can take an hour or more before the fan drops to a tickover. Never been cold. I did setup the offset so that it reads the same as head head height in the centre of the lounge.
 
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Minxy

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Aug 22, 2007
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Were you using just electric or diesel or both? If just electric they are notorious for not giving out anything like the heat that running it on diesel would.

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Aug 6, 2013
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since 1999
Most van heaters on gas (and no doubt on Diesel) churn out 4kW+. Imagine drawing that from the site supply (16A+) - which is why the heat output on mains is much less than on gas / Diesel and usually around 1 - 1.5kW.
 
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Christoph

Christoph

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Thanks for the replies. We were on EHU only, will try the mixed fuel option next week. It's a continental van, has good floor insulation and is supposed to be fully winterised.

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Gorse Hill

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Feb 2, 2013
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Thanks for the replies. We were on EHU only, will try the mixed fuel option next week. It's a continental van, has good floor insulation and is supposed to be fully winterised.
Didn't know the truma 6 came with a diesel option, thought it was just gas
I spoke to the truma guy at the show regarding this, the best way is combined gas and electric (on my panel it's mix2) electric about 2kw gas about 6kw ( probably the same for diesel) and once the required temp is achieved the gas automatically switches off and runs on electric, if you are heating the water at the same time this takes precendant over the heating which won't come on until the water temp is reached
 
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two

Aug 4, 2011
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Almost.
As said above, the gas option provides much more heat than electric. Use both to take advantage of any electricity supplied for no additional charge and the gas will stop heating first leaving the electricity to deal with small demands. In severe weather you will be losing more heat than the 1.8kW electric elements can supply to the outside. Many continental vans don't bother with the electricity bit and cope adequately on gas alone, so you have an advantage.
When heating, the blown air prevents the water from being heated properly until you're up to room temperature. You may have a "BOOST" option on your heater control and, if you do, the purpose of that is to give priority to water heating so that you don't need to wait.

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Lenny HB

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Oct 18, 2007
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If paying for EHU far cheaper to run on gas.
As for the hot water bit that @rogher mentions, it is a pain in the butt compaired to the older C6002. With the C6 if you just select heating it takes around 2 hours for the water to heat up, if you select Water & Heating it takes 1½ hours before the water is hot, if you select Boost if turns the heating off until the water is hot about ½ hour. Also on the 40 deg (now labeled ECO) once heated to 40 the boiler does not turn back on until water temp is below 27.

In cold weather if we want the water hot enough to have a shower when we get up I set the timer so it comes on at least 30min before we want the heating on, with the water set to Boost. The Boiler then heats the water and then the heating comes on.
 
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Minxy

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Aug 22, 2007
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Carthago Compactline
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Our combi boiler heats the water as a side benefit if we have the heating on! (y)
 
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Minxy

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Aug 22, 2007
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two

Aug 4, 2011
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You can usually find a cut-away Truma combi on one of their show stands. If you study it, you will see that all heat is supplied, first, to the air which the water jacket surrounds. Not even the electric elements touch the water jacket. Thus heat to the water is radiated from whichever heat source you are using and will not be very effective if the blower is in operation. I hope that helps folk to understand why water heating can be so sluggish if starting from scratch and space heating is on. The BOOST setting is there to overcome that (and I have a feeling it even heats the water higher than 60°C).
 

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a_jac

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Oct 15, 2016
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This is a great thread, as a newbie to MH's it has answered my own queries in full. Thanks to all those who contributed.
 
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