Taps running (1 Viewer)

treeman

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It seems like one problem after another with my MH at the moment. I spent a couple of days dismantling my Shurflo pump and re-sealing it, now it all pumps fine and no leaks (so far).
Now the taps leak!
When I switch the main pump switch on, there is no problem and taps hold until I switch them on, but when I switch them off they still run, quite lot. The pump is auto-sensing so there appears not enough back pressure to switch it of and it keeps mini pulsing and the water flowing slowly. The taps are not microswitch controlled, just relying on the pump auto-sensing.

Taps look this this model...

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Hot-and-cold...Aw/$(KGrHqRHJFUFDK,wSRe9BQ8L5tp)NQ~~60_58.JPG

I'll photo my actual ones if that helps.

Any ideas what's wrong? How to fix? Are they sealed units and complete replacement needed?

Thanks in advance.
 
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aba

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maybe you just got the pressure switch set a bit high when you have fixed the pump.
 
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treeman

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maybe you just got the pressure switch set a bit high when you have fixed the pump.

I didn't actually change anything on the pump as far as pressure is concerned but repairing the minor leak would I guess increase the pressure slightly. Not sure if I can change the cut-off pressure on the pump - I'll have a look. I just am tired of taking the pump in and out this week - doing my head in.
 
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treeman

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Pump is a shurflo 2088-409-144 and it is 22 years old so struggling to find any technical instructions for it. I'm not sure if pressure cut-off is adjustable - if it is I presume it would be something inside the block on the end. I'll remove the pump again and have a look then maybe a fiddle!
Is it normally a physical dial or screw tightner I'm looking for?
 

Terry

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Sounds to me like you need new taps ::bigsmile::winky:
terry

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treeman

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Taken pressure switch apart - just looks like a diaphram in there that at a certain pressure you hear a switch trip. Can't see anything to adjust or that could have been affected by my repairs.
If I have created more pressure during the repair, surely it should still switch off when a certain psi is reached, no matter what pressure might be achieved.
Also the taps in the shower are still fine, no leakage or drips there, although further away from the pump and higher head.

I'm confused, tired, wet hands, sick and tired of trying things - never buying a classic camper again! I've still got the heater to fix and yesterday got it's first roof leak drip.
 

pappajohn

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you cant increase the pressure as its pre-set at the factory.

all the adjuster screw (on a modern shurflo) does is determine the pressure the pump switch,s off up to the max pressure.
try to increase the cutoff to too high pressure will merely mean the pump will continue to run with all taps turned off and no water movement will happen.

as its a diaphragm pump it is capable of pumping without water moving through it and also capable of running dry without damage unlike a submersible/impeller pump which will stall and either burn out or blow a fuse.

if yours has an adjuster it should be on the end of the pressure switch, centrally in line with the pump body.
just a small phillips screw....from memory screw out to turn off sooner, in to turn off later
 
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treeman

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you cant increase the pressure as its pre-set at the factory.

all the adjuster screw (on a modern shurflo) does is determine the pressure the pump switch,s off up to the max pressure.

That's what I think I need to do - decrease the pressure at which the cut-off activates (the pressure the pump creates is fine) but my old pump has no adjuster screw on it, just a daiphram and a pin - although as I have not opened up the cut-off switch assembly until after the tap leaked I can't see how the cut-off has changed in any way - but stranger things have happened.

I'm lost as to what to do, I suppose try a new set of taps and if that cures it I know they are at fault - just shame to waste money on taps if it is the pump.

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treeman

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Just been out to the MH again, tried another test...

Turned on water pump, slow pulsing pump and sink tap runs a bit, as if it was just opened slightly but it is tight shut. Turned on shower hot and cold on full, looked at sink tap and although slower, it is still running/leaking out.

My theory was if the sink tap stopped leaking when pressure reduced by shower running then the pressure cut off might be at fault as pressure was being taken up by shower, but as sink still leaked I'm thinking more like the sink tap has failed as surely the pressure relief of sending water to shower should not still force out water through sink tap unless sink tap has failed in some way or there is massive pressure in the system.

Does my logic / test make any sense?
 
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Terry

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As I said before sounds like new taps :winky:if you can fit them just get normal house taps, a lot cheaper than caravan taps :winky:
Terry
 
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treeman

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As an update in case it helps anyone - although the Shurflo 2088 states it has a factory set cut-off pressure , you can adjust it. If you peal off the sturdy Shurflo sticker on the end of the cut-off housing there is a hex size 8 (very very small) nut that adjust the cut off pressure. screw anti clockwise to decrease the pressure at which the pump cuts out. I tried it one full turn and you can feel the pump cutting out at a lower pressure - but didn't make much difference in my situation as taps still dripped, but if I put my finger over the end of the tap the pump stopped - so looking more like the taps at fault as if I turn the cut off any lower and I'm guessing it wont pump much at all.

Best place to buy taps?

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Swiftroy1

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As they're not microswitched, I'd follow the advice given by Terry and go to B&Q or Homebase for example, and buy household taps.
 

Terry

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As they're not microswitched, I'd follow the advice given by Terry and go to B&Q or Homebase for example, and buy household taps.

Or try ebay -- Aldi and lidl sometimes have them in at good prices
terry
 

Terence

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Treeman,
I have the same water system as you on a 25 year old Hymer. By putting your finger over the pump outlet you have established the pump is not the problem. If there is no leakage around the tape in question in my experience it means you have a slight leak some where else in the system.

Terence

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treeman

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All sorted - it was the taps at fault.

Got some nice Reich mixer taps installed today and no leaks.
 

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