Solar panel cable sizing (1 Viewer)

scotjimland

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Jul 25, 2007
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I raised this topic on another thread but as it is so important thought it worthy of it's own post..

There is no point in spending ££££ on panels and charge controller then skimping or fitting incorrect (too small) sized cable .. failure to do this and your panels will under perform and disappoint ..

This is so important with a low voltage system.. where you MUST take into account the

* System Voltage
* Max. Current
* Acceptable Volt drop
* Cable length

To illustrate how cable length affects volt drop and the cable size required..

An 80watt panel with two different cable length runs..

Panel voltage = 17V
Max current = 5A (panel watts/voltage)
Acceptable volt drop = 1%
Cable length = 3mt

Cable required = 4mm2

Increase cable length to 6mt and you have to increase cable size to 16mm2

To calculate use this handy cable sizer ... http://www.solar-wind.co.uk/cable-sizing-DC-cables.html
 
Jul 1, 2010
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Another point to consider when buying/fitting cable is that the cable from the panel itself should be UV resistant where it is exposed to sunlight on roof, as this is more expensive and often stiffer to work with fit a suitably sized junction box in a convenient location where cable enters MH, say a wardrobe or overhead locker. Ordinary cable covering will degrade over time when exposed to sunlight often leading to cracking and allowing water ingress..

Then as Jim has posted then use a suitable heavy cable from this JB.
 
Sep 23, 2007
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Why are the cables for solar panels rated so low. 4mm is rated at 25amps.
Can someone please explain

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scotjimland

scotjimland

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Why are the cables for solar panels rated so low. 4mm is rated at 25amps.
Can someone please explain

The volt drop not just the current carrying capacity that must be taken into account when sizing cable.. voltage loss is critical .. and MUST be considered when sizing low voltage cables ..

Consider an 80watt panel, only gives about 5amp max..

if you sized this on current alone you would think 1mm2 would be more than adequate .. but the volt drop would be horrendous and the current available to charge would be drastically reduced..
 

Douglas

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I prefer to over engineer the solar panel cables Jim on the grounds that although the voltage drop may appear small at the point of 80% charge the battery charging voltage is getting so close to the panel voltage, the charging rate slows down, therefor even small voltage drops have a much bigger effect than imagined. So I use auto 30 amp cable. and on the link from the batteries to the inverter I use light starter cable

Doug...

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scotjimland

scotjimland

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Increase cable length to 6mt and you have to increase cable size to[HI] 16mm2 [/HI]

shortcircuit has just pointed out an error.. :Blush: thanks :thumb:

that should say 10mm2 .. NOT 16mm2
 
Apr 18, 2009
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Not long enough!
Having Just bought Link Removed will all the suppied cable be ok or should I invest in better? Or what cable will I need from the controller to battery?:thumb:
 
Apr 18, 2009
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Not long enough!
Another daft question:Blush: Is it better to have the controller as close to the panel as possible? or as close to the battery as possible? if you get my drift:thumb:

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Jul 1, 2010
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Controllers are best sited as close to the batteries as possible usually in the compartment many like mine have a temperature sensor which determines the temp of the compartment for more efficient regulation :thumb:
 
Apr 18, 2009
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Not long enough!
Sorry Guys didn't realize you had answered most of my questions on my other post:Doh:

Mind you still can't believe the cable suppied with my panel aint good enough, if I'd known what I know now I would have bought everything separately:Sad::Sad:

Tim
 

Techno

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Have you considered that cable specific for solar use is most likely a lower resistance than regular automotive cable? I always use 4mm tinned double insulated UV protected and unless the van has good wiring to the batteries from control panels that have a solar input then I will go direct to the batteries via independent regulator. Direct to the batteries is favourite as it negates any control panel faults that may arise

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scotjimland

scotjimland

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Have you considered that cable specific for solar use is most likely a lower resistance than regular automotive cable?[HI] I always use 4mm tinned double insulated UV protected[/HI] and unless the van has good wiring to the batteries from control panels that have a solar input then I will go direct to the batteries via independent regulator. Direct to the batteries is favourite as it negates any control panel faults that may arise

Irrespective of panel rating and cable length ????
 

Techno

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If it got beyond 4 metres I'd have to reconsider but can usually get there in less depending on where the panels can be sited.
On my own van the regulator is in the overhead locker next to the control panel and output connected across common negative and common of the battery selector switch. The internal wiring (Autocruise) is probably no better than 4mm to the batteries but as I have 200 watts I have surplus to cover a little loss.
200watt-L.jpg
Leave-overnight-to-set-L.jpg

All the panels are in parallel so only classed as 4mm from the junction box into the van
 
Feb 27, 2011
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I went with 6mm2 cable just to be sure. 4mm would have done but for £1 a meter it was worth over rating it somewhat ::bigsmile:

This is the stuff I got
Link Removed A bit over £1 a meter.

Karl

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