Seized flywheel? Left idle too long?

Discussion in 'Fiat' started by madbetty, Feb 16, 2009.

  1. madbetty

    madbetty Deleted User

    Fiat Ducato 1.8 petrol, 15yrs old. Been left idle 5.5 months, only 600 miles since MOT and service in August 08. Tried 'bumping' the flywheel. Cannot put into gear when engine running. Can put into gear without engine running. So tried putting into fourth and fifth gear and starting engine with foot on clutch to 'bump' the presumed seizure out. Tried about 25 times till either the battery gave out or the starter motor (maybe). I'm a novice everything so did this on advice of neighbour. Any other top tips please? Thank you in advance.
     
  2. Wildman

    Wildman Read Only Funster

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    Hi if the engine runs the flywheel is not siezed, sounds like the clutch has siezed, quite a few have this year for some strange reason. Never heard of it happening before but come across 6 already ts year. Leave the engine running a while and it may vibrate free
     
  3. Johns_Cross_Motorhomes

    Johns_Cross_Motorhomes Trader - Motorhome & Accessory Sales

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    If you can get the MH on the road, try giving it a tow with it in second gear and clutch depressed. The clutch plate has stuck onto the flywheel.

    Will kill or cure it.

    Peter
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2009
  4. American Dream

    American Dream Read Only Funster

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    We've has a particularly wet year and I guess this has taken it's toll on vehicles that have sat dormant.:Sad:

    Worst case is You'll have to take the clutch off and free the friction plate.

    I have used Brake cleaner before and then the start in gear method on the starter motor with the clutch depressed.

    The cleaner is meant for use alongside friction materials and temporarily acts as a lubricant before it dries, leaving no greasy residue.Hopefully it will be enough to cut through the film of rust before it dries.Used Sparingly, It has worked for me before and saved a lot of extra work.

    Has the bell/clutch housing, got an inspection bung you can squirt it through?

    CAUTION..Personally I'd try it on the starter and disconnect the ignition as this can be flammable in confined spaces.

    EVEN BETTER...IF YOU CAN GET THE SPRAY TO IT...USE Peter's tow method.
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2009
  5. Bulletguy

    Bulletguy Read Only Funster

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    This is a prime example of what i've often gone on about on here......static mh's/rv's etc, or for that matter any vehicle. They were never built as exhibition pieces, they are meant to be used!

    Go with Wildmans and Peters suggestion. Almost certain to be the clutch. It could be a lot worse......engines can sieze through lack of use too! And that is seriously expensive!!

    When/if you manage to free it........run the thing at least a couple of times a month!! It's a road going vehicle, not a static caravan!!
     
  6. pappajohn

    pappajohn Funster Life Member

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    Hi madbetty and welcome to the FUN,

    if there is an inspection bung on the bell housing and its accessable try this.

    you'll need two people,

    try the starter method but dont let the torsion off the clutch when you turn the key off, hold it on the footbrake.

    insert a steel bar through the bunghole and place it on the EDGE of the clutch cover,

    keep the clutch pedal pressed and hit the other end with a hammer BUT not hard.....just constant taps.
    too hard and you'll damage the clutch cover. if neccessary start again a little further round the clutch

    turning it on the key produces torque but not nearly enough and enough would probably damage the gearbox anyway, but its shock thats needed.

    if you look in any workshop they will use an impact air wrench to undo very tight nuts, not a longer spanner.....impact wrenchs produce recuring shock not torque.
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2009
  7. buccaneer

    buccaneer Read Only Funster

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    Let the engine tick over/keep it running until it gets warm/hot and then try selecting a gear.
    The build up of heat might help to dry out loosen parts.
    Leave it running for at least 1/2hour.
     
  8. buyer

    buyer Funster - Life Member Life Member

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    over the last 32 years of running my own motor busines,having done thousands of recoveries and lots of siezed clutches i would try the sugestions allready posted, if they dont work a method i have used on loads of ocasions is to start the engine and warm it up then switch it of ,select 2nd gear start the engine and drive off keeping your foot on the clutch,try stamping on the brake pedal then the throttle keep doing this and it usually works .i have used this method dozens of times .only twice have i had to remove a gearbox to free the clutch. BUT BE VERY CAREFULL, DUE THE VOLUME OFF TRAFFIC ON THE ROADS TODAY THE LAST THING YOU WANT IS SOMEONE TO RUN INTO THE BACK OF YOU .i very nearly gave up on one occasion but after 9 miles it freed of 100 yards from my garage. good luck,steve.:thumb:
     
  9. tofo

    tofo Funster

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    my trick on my old mgb was jack up both driving wheels
    chock the wheels on the ground stert the van in 3 gear
    depress clutch increase engine speed above tickover then apply breaks
    may take a couple of goes but it worked for me
    and its controlled with fewer risks to others
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2009
  10. michaelc

    michaelc Deleted User

    in answer,

    Hi, not much help now, but I was told years ago that keeping the clutch pedal down and there for the clutch plate away from the flywheel was the only way to lay up a car/motorhome or what ever.
    I use a block of wood to hold the pedal down and also never use the hand brake when I lay the hymer up over the months I am in the UK.
    AND over the many years have used this bit of advice on classic cars and now a motorhome, I have never had a sticking clutch plate, and not even had weaker clutch plate springs as a result.
    michael
     
  11. johng

    johng Read Only Funster

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    Agree with Michael

    Betty, force the clutch pedal down overnight, a peice of wood from pedal to seat,

    this may help :)

    good luck
    john
     
  12. Bulletguy

    Bulletguy Read Only Funster

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    The handbrake 'tip' is often used though it's a good idea to operate the brake now and then to keep the cable and braking mechanism working otherwise that can also seize up....plus remembering to keep the moving parts well greased.

    My campervan is driven on the road seven days a week every week....yet on occasions during the recent cold snaps, i've had the rear brake linings freeze on the drum when i've had to park up with the brake on.
     
  13. pappajohn

    pappajohn Funster Life Member

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    wont make any difference......if its stuck, its stuck. :cry:it needs shock to free it:thumb:
     
  14. Geo

    Geo Trader - Funster

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    Quite right John and so far your method is about the only one that stands a chance of not ripping the centre out of the clutch:Eeek:
    But we find the shock to the wallet method works best:Rofl1::thumb:
    Geo
     
  15. pappajohn

    pappajohn Funster Life Member

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    Too right mate....:thumb::Rofl1::Rofl1:
     
  16. pappajohn

    pappajohn Funster Life Member

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    certainly stop it siezing but it wont do the clutch spring fingers any good.

    they are designed to be 'at rest' not compressed so will be weakened by constant compression.
     
  17. pappajohn

    pappajohn Funster Life Member

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    as an aside.....if the handbrake seizes on (only seems to happen with drum brakes) give it the shock treatment as well.

    put a socket on a wheel nut (so you dont damage the threads/wheel) and give it a good, hard crack with a hammer.

    much kinder to the brake shoes and mechanism than trying to 'drive' it free.
     
  18. Geo

    Geo Trader - Funster

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    You give some Shocking advise John, and the name of that font is Impact:Rofl1::Rofl1::Rofl1:
    Geo
     
  19. pappajohn

    pappajohn Funster Life Member

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    Impact !

    now thats the word i couldnt think of :Doh::Blush:

    certainly hammers it home though....:Rofl1::Rofl1:
     
  20. ray

    ray Read Only Funster

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    siezed clutch

    Hi There
    Know exactly how you feel, have had this happen several times with our 2.5TD talbot Express and spent many sleepless nights worrying about it. Have occasionally managed to put it in reverse and then start and get it free but found a better way to do it,

    Jack up tje front end(Assume front wheel drive) I use two 3 ton hydraulic jacks pack up securlly, I use house bricks, two on eack layer turned in opposite directions topped with a piece of timber. one support at eack side of the van.

    When both wheels are clear of the ground you can start the engine with the van in gear and let it run for a while before operating the clutch and changing gear.

    If the van was left in gear and you are unable to take it out, it will probably come out of gear as soon as the wheels are off the floor.

    DON'T CRAWL UNDER THE VAN WHILE IT IS ON JACKS.

    hope it works for you, usually takes me about 30 minutes to do it.

    Try to take the van out even for a short run frequently.
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2009
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