Rust (1 Viewer)

teddybard

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Rust on doors around seals 1996 Autosleeper oh Ford Tranny.

Does anyone know who can deal with this reasonably
without me needing a Mortgage::bigsmile:::bigsmile:
 

PP Bear

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Rust on doors around seals 1996 Autosleeper oh Ford Tranny.

Does anyone know who can deal with this reasonably
without me needing a Mortgage::bigsmile:::bigsmile:

My short answer would be - you can :thumb:

Guess it all depend on depth of rust, has it eaten thru the metal and now there are holes, is it surface rust etc, I know there's a huge range of products on the market to help prevent and eliminate rust, it just depends to what depth and degree I suspect :Smile:

Any way of posting pictures of the effected areas :thumb:
 
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teddybard

teddybard

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Thanks for reply -- it seems to be surface rust -- a few bits here and there -- at the moment smearing a little Vaseline on in the belief this might help for the moment?

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PP Bear

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Thanks for reply -- it seems to be surface rust -- a few bits here and there -- at the moment smearing a little Vaseline on in the belief this might help for the moment?


No no no, give SWMBO her Vaseline back or you'll be in real trouble:cry:

As its surface rust, then you'll need to pop to an outlet such as Halfords and get some rust treatment and preventer, the guys in the shop should be able to advise:thumb:

You'll need to remove the door rubber, but do this with something that's not sharp or you'll split or tear the rubber and defo don't just pull it off from one end, as it'll stretch and not fit without gutting the excess off:winky:

Once it's removed, gently remove the rust with either emery paper (Halfords again, about grade 600), or a wire brush (watch your eyes with the bits flying off) and generally remove the surface rust away until it's slightly shiny underneath. Don't be tempted to do it with a screwdriver, as there's a chance you'll puncture the rust and make a hole:Doh:

Then read the instructions on the rust treatment and brush it on and leave for as long as it says on the instructions and simply remove. Once it's off and dry you can touch up the area and replace the rubber and the jobs a good un:thumb:

Sounds complicated, but shouldn't take too long and then it's done::bigsmile:

Good luck and watch those eyes for debris and from the rust treatment gel:thumb:
 
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Wildman

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There are a number of good preparations out there, FERTAN and naval jelly are two that come to mind
 
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teddybard

teddybard

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No no no, give SWMBO her Vaseline back or you'll be in real trouble:cry:

As its surface rust, then you'll need to pop to an outlet such as Halfords and get some rust treatment and preventer, the guys in the shop should be able to advise:thumb:

You'll need to remove the door rubber, but do this with something that's not sharp or you'll split or tear the rubber and defo don't just pull it off from one end, as it'll stretch and not fit without gutting the excess off:winky:

Once it's removed, gently remove the rust with either emery paper (Halfords again, about grade 600), or a wire brush (watch your eyes with the bits flying off) and generally remove the surface rust away until it's slightly shiny underneath. Don't be tempted to do it with a screwdriver, as there's a chance you'll puncture the rust and make a hole:Doh:

Then read the instructions on the rust treatment and brush it on and leave for as long as it says on the instructions and simply remove. Once it's off and dry you can touch up the area and replace the rubber and the jobs a good un:thumb:

Sounds complicated, but shouldn't take too long and then it's done::bigsmile:

Good luck and watch those eyes for debris and from the rust treatment gel:thumb:

SWMBO here--you have me worried --- only did it because we were told it inhibits the rust until sorted -- please clarify what damage I may have done -- thanks -- Sheila :thumb:

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PP Bear

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SWMBO here--you have me worried --- only did it because we were told it inhibits the rust until sorted -- please clarify what damage I may have done -- thanks -- Sheila :thumb:

Hi Shelia, no damage to the motorhome as it would/could help a little but needs proper treatment with an inhibitor and .......as to the Vaseline, there could be rust flakes or particles in it and that would/could lead to sore lippies :thumb::thumb:
 

Terry

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You wont have done any damage :Smile:Just needs hot soapy water to remove it before treatment with Rust killer or simular --I have some in the garage -think its called rust eater or something -simply brush on lightly,this turns rust black and stops oxidisation (hence going black) You can then paint over it or sand down and retreat ::bigsmile: if like me cannot wait :winky: repaint ----without causing alarm I would be checking all the underneath of a tranny even the 2002 new shaped ones are very prone to rust :Eeek:
terry
 
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teddybard

teddybard

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Hi Shelia, no damage to the motorhome as it would/could help a little but needs proper treatment with an inhibitor and .......as to the Vaseline, there could be rust flakes or particles in it and that would/could lead to sore lippies :thumb::thumb:

Thanks so much for reply -- I have one pot of Vaseline for suitable jobs and another one for just me :thumb:

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TheBig1

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another vote for rust eater/converter. it chemically reacts with ferrous oxide (rust) and changes it into inert ferric tannate. this can be sanded down and repainted. not a hard or expensive job for diy
 

ourcampersbeentrashed

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There used to be some wonderful stuff called jellolite (well thats how its pronounced) you rub the worst of the rust off and apply jellolight and it "turned it back to metal" we used to think it was fabulous stuff years ago.

Dunno whether it still exists but worth a try if it does, we used it on a car I had for years after we used jellolite and no more rust came thru

Good luck

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PP Bear

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Don't waste your money on rust inhibitors.....full fat cola - same results!


Most defo DON'T USE COKE!!!! :Doh:

The only way it sorts it out, is the fact that it's eating everything and I mean everything!!!:Eeek:

Used to shift the old Bedford trucks for Coca Cola as the chasis were just rotten and so badly corroded, that they were written off and all because the number of bottles that would break in crates, then seep thru the floor and eat the metal away, it's a corrosive of its own!!!!:Doh:

Stick to the Jenolite as mentioned earlier as its made for the job:thumb:
 

TheBig1

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the reason cola does a similar thing is that it contains tannic acid, which is the active ingredient in rust treatments.

if you want to see what coke does to metal put some 2p pieces in a glass of coke overnight. then think what it does to your gut if you drink it :Eeek:

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teddybard

teddybard

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Thanks again to all for the replies ref rust -- we are off today for 4 days to Houghton Mill caravan club site Huntingdon before going to the Thetford Bash and as we are not set up to use our laptop in the motorhome we are limited to looking at motorhome fun until we get back :Smile:
 
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all these rust treatments are basically phosphoric acid, so heed the safety warnings. It turns rust into a black base that can be painted over with primer. Kurust, jenolite etc, they all work well. They use the same method in the ship yards.....leave out to rust, then prep with phos/acid. If you go thru to a hole, try backing it up or fill it low with plastic metal, then finish off to final hight with body filler.
 

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