Restoring Bodywork Shine (1 Viewer)

[Yorick]

At our last place, used to park our Transit based camper under trees. Got loads of droppings on side which wouldn't wash off, so used a kitchen scourer.

Oops, took off the lacquer in about 20 places.

How can I get a shine back as planning to sell soon?

Cheers

 

[Sidney]

@Charlie has written some wonderful posts on how to deal with all issues. Take a look under motorhome detailing.

But if you seriously thought a scouring pad was a good idea you may not have the patience to put this right. In which case make sure it's a rainy day when you sell your MH

 

[Weimarunner]

Hi, I doubt you've gone right through the lacquer, you've probably just scratched it so it looks matt in patches where you've rubbed. I'd first try using farecela G3 cutting compound and then finish with farecela G3 wax.
It's a really good system, I used it just this week to remove damage to the bonnet on one of my vans after welding sparks landed all over it. It was a real mess and looks as good as new now after an hours work, I never even got the electric buffer out.
Good luck

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[Charlie]

At our last place, used to park our Transit based camper under trees. Got loads of droppings on side which wouldn't wash off, so used a kitchen scourer.

Oops, took off the lacquer in about 20 places.

How can I get a shine back as planning to sell soon?

Cheers

Is it lacquer or does it appear that way ? Could it have a tinted film over it ? The thing is there are so many materials used then coated or treated in some way it's hard to advise other than the what I call $hit or bust.

You have in effect put yourself in that position so use a medium cut polish to get the whole surface polished so it's all the same. Then refine it down with a lower cut polish to bring a clear even finish and Bobd yer muvvers bruvver.

If it's a tint you've dug into this will be removed and might make that particular window slightly at odds with the rest. Either put up with it or do the other windows.

It is recoverable!

 

[Charlie]

Hi, I doubt you've gone right through the lacquer, you've probably just scratched it so it looks matt in patches where you've rubbed. I'd first try using farecela G3 cutting compound and then finish with farecela G3 wax.
It's a really good system, I used it just this week to remove damage to the bonnet on one of my vans after welding sparks landed all over it. It was a real mess and looks as good as new now after an hours work, I never even got the electric buffer out.
Good luck

Don't use G3 on clear or tinted plastic it's an AIO polish which has varying levels of cut so an uneven finish is likely.

 

[Just smiffy]

T-cut.......

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[Weimarunner]

Don't use G3 on clear or tinted plastic it's an AIO polish which has varying levels of cut so an uneven finish is likely.

Is it plastic? Not metal body? That said G3 works very well on GRP, it's the 'go to' compound for boat refinishing

 

[Charlie]

Is it plastic? Not metal body? That said G3 works very well on GRP, it's the 'go to' compound for boat refinishing

Anyone who confuses plastic with GRP is going to strip paint in an instant if they use G3 on it !!

The surface gel coat on a boat will be significantly thicker than on a Motorhome or a GRP bodied car.

You really should know what you are doing when using G3. It's not safe for a begginer to use due to its AIO properties.

 

[laird of Dunstan]

@Charlie i have a scrape on my coloured plastic wheel trim ,its not deep,so i was thinking of using 2000 grade wet or dry and then g3 ,i have used G3 in the past on clear coat ,would you reccomend another route ?

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[Charlie]

@Charlie i have a scrape on my coloured plastic wheel trim ,its not deep,so i was thinking of using 2000 grade wet or dry and then g3 ,i have used G3 in the past on clear coat ,would you reccomend another route ?

If it's through coloured plastic you can wet and dry it. Go for Meguires unigrit 4000 grade.

When plastic is painted the paint cannot adhere anywhere near as well as on other surfaces like steel for instance . Huge care must be taken when polishing it or it will burn through very very quickly. Paint heats up fast as well on plastic. When I polish a whole car I drop down to ultra low cut polish swap the pad for s soft one and lower the machine speed. It really must be treated with care !

 

[Weimarunner]

Anyone who confuses plastic with GRP is going to strip paint in an instant if they use G3 on it !!

The surface gel coat on a boat will be significantly thicker than on a Motorhome or a GRP bodied car.

You really should know what you are doing when using G3. It's not safe for a begginer to use due to its AIO properties.

Maybe the OP can clarify what has been effected. Not sure why plastic and windows are being referenced, I got the impression the OP was meaning bodywork??

 

[FJmike]

Unless it's a recently new van or has metallic paint it won't have a lacquer finish either.

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[Bobby22]

I'm sure it's a transit based PVC that @Yorick has.

 

[Charlie]

Maybe the OP can clarify what has been effected. Not sure why plastic and windows are being referenced, I got the impression the OP was meaning bodywork??

It has... I think the thread has become a wee bit muddled with the plastic window thread.

On topic could the OP post a couple of pictures ? A couple from across the surface at 45 degrees or so would tell us a lot ?

 

[Yorick]

I'm sure it's a transit based PVC that @Yorick has.

Yup, it's a 2005 PVC. I was really looking for generic fix/bodge as can't buy fancy polishing stuff over here.

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[funflair]

Yup, it's a 2005 PVC. I was really looking for generic fix/bodge as can't buy fancy polishing stuff over here.

Is it a metallic or solid colour.

Martin

 

[Yorick]

Is it a metallic or solid colour.

Martin

Simple Ford white .

 

[Weimarunner]

Yup, it's a 2005 PVC. I was really looking for generic fix/bodge as can't buy fancy polishing stuff over here.

If you're after a cheap fix it maybe worth trying (in a hidden spot somewhere) upvc restorer. It's cheap, we use it for polishing up weathered, faded and sun bleached upvc window frames. There's a liquid type and a cream which has a very light abrasive quality to cut back and restore shine. Give it ago somewhere out of sight. Costs about £4 - £7 a bottle.
Good luck

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[Yorick]

If you're after a cheap fix it maybe worth trying (in a hidden spot somewhere) upvc restorer. It's cheap, we use it for polishing up weathered, faded and sun bleached upvc window frames. There's a liquid type and a cream which has a very light abrasive quality to cut back and restore shine. Give it ago somewhere out of sight. Costs about £4 - £7 a bottle.
Good luck

Will it work on metal ?

 

[Weimarunner]

Will it work on metal ?

No, I'd go for the g3 by hand, you can mail order it if you struggle to get it where you are - Link Removed

 

[Charlie]

I really really would not recommend using anything other than a lowish cut automotive polish on that van .... UPVC cleaner is for UPVC Ang G3,is an AIO polish that starts on the pad as quite abrasive. Use it but you could end up causing considerable damage .

Pictures really would help if you can .

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[Charlie]

No, I'd go for the g3 by hand, you can mail order it if you struggle to get it where you are - Link Removed

You cannot break G3,down by hand it needs the speed of the pad and the lubrication of water before it can break down as it is intended to do.

Using G3 by hand will mean localised pressurebwhich given its heavy cutting ability in raw form is very risky indeed with the risk of striking through very high.

 

[Weimarunner]

You cannot break G3,down by hand it needs the speed of the pad and the lubrication of water before it can break down as it is intended to do.

Using G3 by hand will mean localised pressurebwhich given its heavy cutting ability in raw form is very risky indeed with the risk of striking through very high.

G3 is fine used by hand, you'd have to go hammer & tongs to cut right through paintwork of any sort. Don't try whole panels or broad areas without a buffer but blending in your scourer damaged spots will be fine. I've blended in new paintwork, marks and scuffs locally hundreds of times on gel coat and automotive paint finishes all successfully. Detailers get in to panel mouldings and close up to fixtures by hand daily.

@Charlie , the OP is in his words is "looking for a quick fix / bodge" to lessen the degree of scourer damage to an 05 plate transit before selling. I quite agree that you need the exact products & techniques if you're after a Rolls Royce showroom finish but I don't think this is the spec.

Cheers

 

[Charlie]

G3 if fine if used correctly by someone who knows the properties and characteristics of it. You must also use it for purposes is is specifically designed for and using it by hand is not one of those .

Quick fix ? All well good but the chances of causing damage to a surface that presently has no damage is high.

But what do I know .

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[jezport]

Ive been selling a restoration polish for a few years. Its great for bringing the shine back to plastics and GRP. Ive had numerous emails thanking me for selling the product and use it myself.
Link Removed

Ifv any funsters want any I will do it at £10 a bottle delivered. Just PM me

 

[Weimarunner]

But what do I know .

No offence Charlie. I'm just trying to help the OP out. Both G3 & UPVC restorer are quite user friendly, as long as you go easy and trial it first somewhere. Readers shouldn't be put off using them, it's not a dark art. Your far more likely to do damage with an electric / air polisher in inexperienced hands. Not disagreeing with your advice, just not over-complicating what really should be a straight forward polish out.

 

[Charlie]

My whole approach has always been to use the right product for the right job mate. Most of all safely.

There is a thread in the detailing section dedicated to polishing using a machine. Safely. The amount of times I've see people using the wrong pad or the wrong polish or the wrong speeds or a combination of all is quite a few.

G3 is a good polish. Bodyshops love it because they use just one polish cos it breaks down as the polish is compounded. But it's a polish that IMO is best suited to those who are very familiar with what it can do. And how fast it can cut especially when it's fresh on the pad and lubricated. I have to repeat its good stuff but not safe so I say use something lighter in cut.

The number one rule in polishing is and always has been start with a low cut and work up if it's not working. Starting with a high cut which is what G3 is is risky.


I have UPVC cleaner here in cream and solvent form.. I use it on the window frames. Solvent I think you would agree should go nowhere near vehicles ? Well the cream stuff has solvent in it as well. Both cleaners are pretty aggressive I use them as a last resort. Frankly I would never use them on a vehicle. Use the right stuff.

There is for me no such thing as a quick fix when we are dealing with expensive vehicles .

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[Yorick]

It's hard to take pics, but these 2 may help. They seem to show the scratches rather than the dull areas.

Some good replies so far and I want to keep it simple

 

[Charlie]

It's hard to take pics, but these 2 may help. They seem to show the scratches rather than the dull areas.

Some good replies so far and I want to keep it simple

View attachment 139533 View attachment 139534

It's hard to say but I think you've just scuffed the surface up... are there and edges like a thin top layer has been removed ? Like s scab if that makes any sense?

 

[Yorick]

It's hard to say but I think you've just scuffed the surface up... are there and edges like a thin top layer has been removed ? Like s scab if that makes any sense?

Under torch light, the scratches are tiny and can't even feel them with my finger. I didn't go silly with the scourer. Very light rubbing.

Was hoping that some posh wax would cure it

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