Oils and oil changes. (1 Viewer)

pappajohn

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Aug 26, 2007
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I have{the wife has} a merc 3.0 V6 diesel over here they recomend not exceeding 20000km
And i think in the begining we changed that at about 18000km
But you need a morgage for oil here {in a merc garage}

It old now{like the wife} she only does about 8000km per year so i will change it {the oil not the wife}maybe after about 15000km

Mel

same engine in my Chrysler 300C.......Mercedes OM642.

oil change at 12,500 miles (20000km) under normal use.

just as well with Castrol edge 5w/30 (merc spec 229.51) at £45 per 5 ltrs

and i need 9 ltrs per change
 
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Snowbird

Snowbird

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Have searched high and low and this is the best site I have come up with.
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Trevsplace

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Oct 29, 2011
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oil change

When spending loadsamoney on a motorhome, there are two things you need to concern yourself with, oil change and cam belt replacement. Personally i won't skimp on either cos neglect on either could seriously shorten the life of your motorhome!!!:cry:

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keithcdb

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Already mentioned on this thread, opie oils. Just give them your engine details and they will advise you on the best oil for your engine/year/mileage. Cannot fault these guys, dealt with them for years on various big powered custom builds through to classics :thumb:
 
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Snowbird

Snowbird

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Before we go any further, I do not skimp on oil changes. I have run trucks for many years and have NEVER had an oil issue. Even when doing ME work my oil was changed at 10000 miles regardless of where I was. Shell Rotella was the only oil I ever used with engines that had covered well over a million miles.
This thread was started not to discuss how much it costs to change oil, but to find out which oil is best for your given engine.
 

Trevsplace

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oil changes

Best oil, the one the manufacturer recommends.

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pudseykeith

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Nov 5, 2007
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Hi guys. One thing to remember when concidering changing engine oil type is all engine oils contain a ditergent to a larger or lessor degree. The idea is to keep impurities suspended in the oil so that the filter can filter them out so keeping the oil clean. In an old engine that has been run on low ditergent mineral oil will have a build up of sludge usually made up of soot particles formed by small amounts of combustion gas that will pass the pistons esspecialy when starting from cold, along with water from condensation and other particulate that can find its way into the engine via the breather and such,
If you then start to use an oil containing larger amounts of ditergent, this oil will start to disolve these impurities and can block the filter or reduce the pressure of the oil reaching the crank or because of the pressure that the oil runs at the filter could be damaged so allowing unfiltered oil to pass into the crank bearings ect so scouring out the bearing surfaces and damaging the crank amongst other things. I have seen oil galleries in cranks blocked with sludge and completly nacking up a crank beyond repair.
Changing your oil type is something not to be undertaken lightly and needs to be given much concideration.
Personatly I would recomend changing the oil more often, as Snowbird suggests, not the type of oil.
Pudseykeith
 
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JockandRita

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Before we go any further, I do not skimp on oil changes.
Hear hear Dave. :thumb: And neither do I Trevsplace

This thread was started not to discuss how much it costs to change oil, but to find out which oil is best for your given engine.
Exactly. :thumb:

Cheers,

Jock.

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Jan 4, 2012
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Put your reg number in here and it will tell you what oils for what parts and when---

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and it told me every 6 months or 4500 miles:Eeek: I thought I was being good at once a year:whatthe:
 

Terry

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I may be wrong but all oils are made to a BS and as such have to comply.So if your van has 5/30 or 10/40 etc etc then provided you get from a good sauce you should have no problem / difference, at the moment Morrys are selling 4 ltrs of oil for £16 or £18 semi syn or £22 full syn thats what I am using --I was using a 5 gallon drum of full syn Comma oil (£45)for a few yrs but I ran out hence hence the morrys--last time I went into JTF they had some oil in for about £16 plus vat --
As to condensation in the engine ::bigsmile: as soon as you start up as the engine reaches temp it would have gone :Smile:How it got there in the first place beats me ::bigsmile:If you think you have condensation in there I suggest you check your gaskets :Smile:
terry

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Aug 30, 2012
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How many of you self servicers go to local car diy shops
Spend a foutune on branded oil then buy the cheapist filter's
These are probably Chinese fakes that are far below specs

2 things good qualty oil and genuine filters will help keep a engine in good order
Manufacturers recommended for me every time :thumb:
 
Jul 17, 2012
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Ooops! :Blush: just checked Snowbirds link and it is telling me that my oil change interval is 7,000 kilometres or six months!

She's only due a service in December when she will go back to the garage who changed her cambelt when I got her. I think I've done about 8,000 kms since January with about another 1,000 due before she goes back to the garage.

Me thinks it's time for me to find a ladies mechanical course and learn how to change filters and oils myself! Mind you, getting down on the ground is a bit of a mission and getting back up from down there, I definetly can't do with any decorum at all!:ROFLMAO:
 

aba

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my uncle used to change the oil filter every 3000 miles and the oil every 6000 miles never had a problem with any of his motors maybe that's a cheaper way for many.

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Snowbird

Snowbird

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I have just been out and bought 6 litres of Lucas full synthetic for the Smart car. £30 which will do 2 oil changes so its hardly going to break the bank. The thing that did surprise me though was the tiny oil filter. I would have preferred a bigger filter. The van is going back on mineral oil next week, ready for whatever happens this winter.
 

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