Not just your average toilet thread - help!!

Discussion in 'Motorhome Chat' started by mickyc, Aug 29, 2015.

  1. mickyc

    mickyc Read Only Funster

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    Imagine the scene,

    Mr and Mrs C snoring away, dreaming of another days lobster impersonation on the Sud de Francaise plages.

    When " what's that noise" was the cry (wrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr shouted the motorhome)

    I leaped out of bed like a over eager salmon opened the door to the loo and was aghast to find that the loo pump was running (now dry) and had deposited the contents of the flush tank into the shower tray.

    (Wrrrrrrrrrrr shouted the motorhome)

    I have to say, for me at 4am I was quite impressive, I calmly walked over to the 12v panel and pressed "off"

    (Wrrrrr shouted the motorhome) The pump is wired to a constant supply (namely the fridge and oven spark circuit)

    I dismantled the switch on the loo and discovered that the switch was sat in a puddle of water in what I now know to be the switch well. Last nights shower had filled the switch well and was shorting out the switch.

    image.jpg

    I disconnected the switch which stopped the pump and have since dried it out (will see if it's damaged over next few days)

    I took out the switch well and saw that it had what looked to be a drain tube (see pic) but this tube wasn't allowing water through as it hadn't been drilled through fully.

    image.jpg

    My questions are ........

    Should the tube be drilled through to drain the well? (I can soon do that, but don't want to, if it shouldn't be)

    Is there a reason why the loo pump is on a constant circuit (cannot be isolated like the main water pump)?

    Is the switch likely to suffer long term damage from its "dunking"? (The van is under warranty) likewise is the pump likely to suffer from running dry for 15 mins or so?

    At the moment we're flushing with the shower head as I daren't reconnect the switch and leave the van (the switch appears to be working again but I can't isolate it, so can't take the risk of it cutting in again and causing further damage)

    Thanks in advance to anyone who knows the answers (particularly the "well" drain tube)
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2015
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  2. pappajohn

    pappajohn Funster Life Member

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    23 minutes since this post......have you forgotten to post the proper one
     
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  3. mickyc

    mickyc Read Only Funster

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    Er, nope ;)
     
  4. Gizmouk

    Gizmouk Funster

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    We have the same crapper as you, so will be following this thread with interested.
    Not sure if the hole should be drilled all the way through or not. But with engineering hat on - what happens to the water that does go down that drain ?
    Chances are the the water go to the PCB and / or connector terminals. I would suggest removing it for a close inspection - chances are it "should be fine" as you'd like to think that whoever designed it would have taken into account the environment it was going to be used in and tropicalised it. However, this a motorhome we're talking about, so that wont have been a consideration.
    With that in mind, I'd be tempted to price up a replacement board ;)
    I'd be tempted to run a very fine bead of silicon sealant around the mating edges of the switch panel and "well". Seems a bit strange they haven't done that, or used some kind of seal.

    Maybe I'm just trying to over engineer motorhome design ... to the most basic level :think:
     
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  5. mickyc

    mickyc Read Only Funster

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    Hi Gizmouk,

    The "drain" (if the hole was fully made) would allow any shower water to drain from the switch well back into the loo flush tank. I'm pretty sure that is the intention but cannot clarify (the Thetford help sheets, don't show the right angle to determine if it's a "proper hole")

    I think sealing the switch into the loo may make changing a faulty switch a difficult task (probably the purpose of the "switch well")

    Without a drain hole, accumulative shower water builds up and fills the well, this has me thinking that I have a faulty casting (it's just the last bit of the drain that's "blocked"

    Cheers
     
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  6. ivorantony

    ivorantony Funster

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    I think you have answered your own question! If any surplus water can drain back into the toilet holding tank without contaminating the switch then to me that's the job sorted,(y)
     
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  7. Allanm

    Allanm Funster

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    I'd be thinking about splitting the wiring somewhere and putting a switch in so you can isolate the toilet flush. Ours only works with the 12v control panel switched on.
     
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  8. campa cola

    campa cola Funster

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    Not quite sure what was going through the mind of a designer who would put a constant supply on the toilet flush......nitwit.
     
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  9. mickyc

    mickyc Read Only Funster

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    It seems obvious doesn't it? but you know what Mr warranty is like :whistle:

    I'm going to check with the factory, to see if they've wired it correctly (if they'll speak to me) if I get no joy, I'll have to look at altering it myself.

    Oh, you should see how they've secured the back window locks (1/4" screws into the flexible plastic reveal trim) A quick tug and you'd easily be in.

    Oh and they've bodged a cutlery tray into the kitchen drawer without upgrading the lock or drawer runners (it doesn't "soft close" like the rest and it likes to open up on left hand bends ripping itself off of the runners and landing on the floor)

    We told them it was a crap design and not what we ordered, their response? Take it or leave it.

    Brilliantly designed van/layout, has attracted loads of attention and positive comments throughout France, but the workmanship is quite frankly appalling.

    Other issues include...........

    Bathroom sealant (seemingly applied by catapult apart from where it's missing of course)
    Overhead locker, close it and you need a screwdriver to get at your bedding
    TV locker, lock it and it opens on its own free will
    Bathroom lights keep falling onto the floor
    You need to be Charles Atlas to open/close the oven door
    Gas shut off - doesn't
    Gas alarm has a mind of its own
    I've had to reattach the back door internal panels as they fell off (screws over tightened and pulled through panels)
    I've had to adjust the alarm bonnet switch as it pushed its way through the bonnet lining, simulating an open door. (This made me very popular on a crowded Aire)

    These are all nigly bits that I hope they will sort when we get back, but virtually all of issues are down to poor workmanship and quality control on what is supposed to be a premium product.

    Still, at least it's sunny here :)
     
  10. TheBig1

    TheBig1 Funster Life Member

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    if worried about leaving the van in case of a recurrence, which you could check for after showering, there is normally a fuse for the toilet inside the cassette locker
     
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