Mud Chains (1 Viewer)

Slackhouse

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Hi - Has anybody got advice on purchasing mud chains.

I have already got plastic grid mats for parking on which aids setting off but we have had problems on CL sites due to wet grass once off the mats.

Thanks

Pete :thumb:
 

bobandjanie

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Hi, don't know about putting chains on and of course taking them off again, :Smile: mucky job at the best of times.

I would try some M + S tyres first, and see how you get on.:Smile:

Or get a rear wheel drive van.::bigsmile: Bob.
 

pappajohn

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chains work well on snow and ice as they dig down to the hardtop if they dont get bite before then.

put them on mud and they'll keep digging until they find rock/roots etc so may be worse than nowt.

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Xabia

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I bought a set of Jeko snow belts when we had the snow problems earlier this year. Didn't actually get to use them in anger but looking at the design and the video on Youtube I am sure that they would get me out of trouble. Easy to put on and take off.

They are light and in a carry bag so I keep them in the motorhome just in case I get in muddy situations (like I did in France last year when I hadn't purchased them!)

Search for Jeko snow belts on Youtube and you will see a demo of what they can do.
 

MicknPat

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How about these?

Link Removed :Eeek:

Whether it be chains or these mud paddles I bet you will be straight OFF the CL owners Christmas card list :ROFLMAO:

Mick
 

Landy lover

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Try these people www.snowchains.co.uk they are very good - they do different gauge chains for different purposes and despite many peoples thoughts you do not have to take the wheels off or jack the vehicle up to fit the chains - when you know the routine takes more time to get them out than to fit them - just tell them you want them for Mud and snow - good firm and if you collect them they will demonstrate them for you - bear in mind that most chains are vehicle specific so you will need to tell them what size tyres and on what vehicle.

Don't forget though that if you are a front wheel drive vehicle and you have the rear heavily loaded you will be taking the weight OFF your drive wheels and that alone will make traction bad and no chain /bread tray /mesh etc will get a grip without the right loading on the axle - might be worth a trip to a weighbridge to check

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laneside

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nowhere near long enough
chains work well on snow and ice as they dig down to the hardtop if they dont get bite before then.

put them on mud and they'll keep digging until they find rock/roots etc so may be worse than nowt.


Afraid Pappajohn is right, there is no stopping until you get to something hard, you will just dig in.

Best advice is avoid the muddy corner or do not slip off the bread trays and more important take your right shoe off.

and beat a hasty retreat before the site owner sees the mess you have made:cry:
 
Feb 25, 2008
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mud control!

When you come to replace your tyres, try and find some that are an inch or so wider for the back and some mud and snow for the front.
The wider ones, although only a little wider will help distribute the weight of the rear better, (less pounds per sqr inch at point of contact) and carry a small compressor so if you realy have problems let the rear tyres down a little to help out a bit more.....
And as already said, keep a very soft foot on the throttle to save the front wheels from spinning.

Or just stay put until it dries out??!!:thumb:

Happy and safe travels

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imprint

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First, the expense of buying M&S tyres, and the cost of running them, is far more than paying for a tractor tow - even if you have to pay.

Second, the advice about lowering pressure is bang on.

Third, several of us hard-hearted Bxxxxxs watched with joy a couple of years back when some guy carefully fitted chains to his rear wheels, and continued to spin the front ones! (Honest, but it was in France)
 

pappajohn

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When you come to replace your tyres, try and find some that are an inch or so wider for the back and some mud and snow for the front.
The wider ones, although only a little wider will help distribute the weight of the rear better, (less pounds per sqr inch at point of contact) and carry a small compressor so if you realy have problems let the rear tyres down a little to help out a bit more.....
And as already said, keep a very soft foot on the throttle to save the front wheels from spinning.

Or just stay put until it dries out??!!:thumb:

Happy and safe travels

sound advise letting the tyre pressure down but many folks dont realise you cant just let a bit out......you need to let almost all of it out.

for it to be really effective you only need around 5 to 10psi, in other words...almost flat.

and you need a very good portable compressor to get back to 65/70psi in all four tyres.

also try setting off in second gear.....more torque, less power.
 

jonandshell

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Buy a Transit or Sprinter!::bigsmile:

Seriously though, I remember an article in Land Rover Owner Magazine years ago when they went off-roading in France. The French used snow chains for added traction in mud on their Landies.
Anyone involved in forestry will also know that snowchains are used regularly on machines to help them get about in boggy woodland.
A set of snowchains would be a good dual-use buy in my opinion.

-Just don't expect an invite to return to the CL if you spin your wheels with them fitted!::bigsmile:

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pappajohn

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Buy a Transit or Sprinter!::bigsmile:

Seriously though, I remember an article in Land Rover Owner Magazine years ago when they went off-roading in France. The French used snow chains for added traction in mud on their Landies.
Anyone involved in forestry will also know that snowchains are used regularly on machines to help them get about in boggy woodland.
A set of snowchains would be a good dual-use buy in my opinion.

-Just don't expect an invite to return to the CL if you spin your wheels with them fitted!::bigsmile:
but your post confirms what i said....forestry, boggy woodland......tree roots just below the surface to bite onto.
without the 'hard' substrate they have nowt to grip on.
depending where in the country you are, there may be a foot of 'soft' top soil with grass on top.
some places will have limestone, some granite, some just soil so its pot luck if you get grip with chains.
 

Landy lover

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but your post confirms what i said....forestry, boggy woodland......tree roots just below the surface to bite onto.
without the 'hard' substrate they have nowt to grip on.
depending where in the country you are, there may be a foot of 'soft' top soil with grass on top.
some places will have limestone, some granite, some just soil so its pot luck if you get grip with chains.

Totally agree with your point PJ but worth mentioning that Mud and Snow chains are a heavier section chain than pure snow chains and they also form a different pattern on the tyre giving more of a tractor style of grip so do have a more positive effect even in the scenario you laid out because they are bulking and compressing the mud against itself for traction as with the open face tread of a tractor tyre. From my own experience the major problems with people that get stuck - a) they always seem to fail to acknowledge they are stuck and b) they all seem to think that by getting the wheels spinning at 100mph they will magically become free. Result usually is that they dig themselves into a big hole that they need pulling out of before they can be recovered to firm ground.
 

pappajohn

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thanks for the info landy....i didnt realise there were specialist mud chains, just snow chains on mud :Doh:.....i took the easy option on my little SJ410.....a winch ! :ROFLMAO:

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Slackhouse

Slackhouse

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Executive Decision - Michelin Snow chains

Hi - Made an executive decision - invested in the Michelin snow chains. They have a small diamond pattern which is a lot closer than normal chains. Therfore acts more like a nobbly tyre - hopefully.:RollEyes:

Will be out testing on a CL next weekend - been warned the grass is wet:Doh:.

I will give some feed back - if we manage to get back! :Blush:

Pete

Thanks for all the comments
 

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