Motorhome Damp

Discussion in 'Motorhome Chat' started by HalewoodChix, Nov 3, 2011.

  1. HalewoodChix

    HalewoodChix Read Only Funster

    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2011
    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Merseyside
    Could I ask for some help please? It would appear that my baby has developed a case of damp around the habitation door and behind the wardrobe area. Are there any files or posts about which show the construction and materials used for me to replace the batons and boards without having to pay a fortune to a dealer/repair?
    I keep seeing all the different types of sealant, wood hardener etc etc, but not too sure which is best.
     
  2. Johns_Cross_Motorhomes

    Johns_Cross_Motorhomes Trader - Motorhome & Accessory Sales

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2008
    Messages:
    9,248
    Likes Received:
    5,199
    Location:
    East Sussex 01-580-881288
    Would help if you said what make and model your van is

    Peter
     
  3. pappajohn

    pappajohn Funster Life Member

    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2007
    Messages:
    29,484
    Likes Received:
    16,967
    Location:
    YO11 2BD
    Hi and welcome to the fun....

    on a sour note, if you need to ask about construction techniques and which adhesives/sealant etc then leave it to the professionals.

    the hab door and frame, along with the wardrobe and any other furniture nearby, will need to come out before you even think about repairs.
    the damp, if low down, may also have found its way into the floor under the wardrobe.

    not scaremongering but preparing you for what you may find.

    if its bad on the bits you can see, it will probably be much worse in the bits you cant see.
     
  4. motorhomelover

    motorhomelover

    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2010
    Messages:
    1,720
    Likes Received:
    613
    Location:
    The world
    if you have not had experience in this type of repair leave well alone you could devalue your nine year old motorhome in a crack leave it to the experts you cannot achieve a showroom finish as they can
    put your money to good use pay the expert
     
  5. gypsylady

    gypsylady Read Only Funster

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2008
    Messages:
    251
    Likes Received:
    104
    Location:
    Durham
    I disagree.

    We are currently dealing with a very wet back end.

    When our 2006 Unit was built, the crew damaged the rear brake light at the top of the van.

    Looks like there has been a leak since 2006 as the back wall had running water coming out of it when it was pressed.

    OH has stripped out the rear bunk bed and wall boarding, found support struts screwed into polystyrene packing, ladders just supported by the rear skin. Obviously we got the 'rubbish' crew to build our van.

    He has been drying out the wall for a couple of months and will be starting to re-build shortly.

    pm me and I'll get him to describe the research he's done for wood fillers and damp suppressants.

    June
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2011
    • Like Like x 3
  6. haganap

    haganap Funster Life Member

    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2007
    Messages:
    11,070
    Likes Received:
    13,681
    Location:
    Heavan
    quite agree Gypsy,

    there is no doubt its a tough job, but if you work hard at it it can be done. I had damp in my 656 as well as it appears 3 or 4 others, :Laughing:

    I got all my research off the net and found Oleary;s spares, excellent and all ways offering a bit of help. Also Terry on here is a bit of a self builder with lots of usefull knowledge, if you payed your minimal subscriptions you may be able to PM him, he loves to help people. :thumb:
     
  7. Terry

    Terry Funster

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2007
    Messages:
    10,722
    Likes Received:
    6,224
    Location:
    South yorks
    I is here :BigGrin:
    Hi and welcome HalewoodChix :thumb:
    first job is to find the leak/reseal the door to stop any more damp getting into your van :thumb: ooops sorry that's the second job, first is to spend the best £10 on your van by becoming a paid funster then you can ask as many Qs as you like.:BigGrin:
    Have a look at http://www.olearymotorhomes.co.uk/ and try to find a match for your interior boarding -just in case :thumb:-Most vans (you have not said what yr/make /model )are built on the same principal with an outer skin fastened to a timber frame with a inner board fastened to that and insulation in-between :thumb:You will have to remove all the furniture that the damp has got behind and then remove the inner wall board to get it dry/replace wet rotted timbers then reassemble it all :thumb::Eeek:The board could be fastened with staple type nails (easy to get off) or glued (hence the new boards)that is hard to get off in one piece.---------------before we start getting in too deep what are your skill levels? can you do what I have described?:BigGrin: Make a decision if you can do it or not ?
    If not then get at least 2 or 3 quotes for the work you need doing as they will vary a lot :Eek!: Get it in writing exactly what they are going to do for the money and ask if it's possible for you to see/inspect after the boards are off and before they put them back on :thumb:It has been known for it to simply be over-boarded grab your money only for it to return a few months down the line :Eeek::Eeek:
    If you can then make a start and ask away :thumb::BigGrin::Wink:
    terry
     
    • Like Like x 1
  8. HalewoodChix

    HalewoodChix Read Only Funster

    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2011
    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Merseyside
    Thanks to everyone for their comments. My unit is a Compass Drifter 460, 1998. My skill levels are such that no job is too big, as I will ask all family members with the skills to assist.

    I have started to take furniture off the walls on either side of the door and have found that the wood surrounding the door to be totally rotten. A repair early in its life, before my ownership, appears to be the reason, with a small amount of damp in the wood behind the wardrobe.
    This has now been removed and the heating put on to start the drying process.

    Thanks again for all comments:Smile:
     
  9. slobadoberbob

    slobadoberbob Read Only Funster

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2009
    Messages:
    6,159
    Likes Received:
    1,970
    Location:
    Kent, garden of England
    You will get a lot of help and advice on this site

    Welcome firstly. While I own an American RV these days which has a metal frame and fiberglass shell, I did start out many many years back with a Glendale Motorhome made on a wooden frame.

    I actually visited there factory a couple of times and saw the construction of the wooden frames they used as did many of other motorhome makers. The system is much the same into the period of your motorhome.

    Can I recommend you become a fully subscribed member.. best £10 you will spend..

    The fixtures such as cabinets should all just unscrew and come out. You may need to remove other items to access the actual parts you want to get to. Just take your time and look and re look.. if the damp is more than damp you may find large areas will come away.. you have seen a post that gives you a link to get the wall panelling to replace the damaged inner panels. But it is the main frame you need to get to and that will be bonded in some way to the outer skin. you may be able to take out any damaged wood and rebuild it with a bridge on the undamaged area of the frame or frames. But you do need to find out where the damp has come from.... is it a leak from the roof or where the roof joins the side... no point in doing the repairs if you do not find the cause of the issue.

    You will find some form of insulation that will most lily be very damp and may need to be replaced as well.

    You mention applying heat.. me I would use a dehumidifier as you want to draw the damp out and heating it may just make it swell .... but if I had to give you just a few words of advice.. locate the leak.... that has to be found and that may mean re sealing the roof to side walls or look at an roof light and see if water is getting in and running to the side wall.. look outside the box..

    I wish you luck, I am sure you will get it sorted with help of information from fellow MHF members.

    Bob, Sue and Ezzie the St Bernard.:thumb:
     
  10. wivvy's dad

    wivvy's dad Read Only Funster

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2010
    Messages:
    3,218
    Likes Received:
    1,807
    Location:
    48.066895,12.862673
    It's not heating you need, but de-humidifying.

    Get yourself the biggest dehumidifier you can hire, and leave it running 24/7.
    It should take about a week.
     
  11. buttons

    buttons Funster

    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2009
    Messages:
    12,950
    Likes Received:
    10,722
    Location:
    Hertfordshire
    I'm sure I could answer the question myself...but why don't uk manufactures use an aluminum structure. I have past owned two samwitch construction vans, both leaked like sieves. :rain::rain:It would make a repair much more simple.:helptitanic::helptitanic:
     
  12. slobadoberbob

    slobadoberbob Read Only Funster

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2009
    Messages:
    6,159
    Likes Received:
    1,970
    Location:
    Kent, garden of England
    100% right Buttons

    You have hit the nail on the head Buttons. My Winnebago has a full aluminum interlocking frame and the outside fiberglass panels are bonded to insulation panels the inner panels are thenapplied... with a full fiberglass end caps and roof ..ok makes the RV heavier but there is less likly any chance of a leak.. (no rubber roof on the my Winnibago). But like you I cannot see why we build on wood.

    Bob
     
  13. Terry

    Terry Funster

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2007
    Messages:
    10,722
    Likes Received:
    6,224
    Location:
    South yorks
    Hi HalewoodChix, stick with the heat and when you think its dry give it a couple of extra days :BigGrin: If you go with dehumidifier you need to block everything up air tight as poss-not easy in a van- or you will just be pulling more air / moisture in :Wink:When you have got the inner boards off you will be able to see if the water has come through the door surround or higher up / roof - if roof you will need to get the edge trims off and seal under them :BigGrin:Some simply clean off and seal the edges only- indeed I have come across one maker that did such a thing from new IE fitted cnr strip on dry and sealed edges :BigGrin: Replace your wet timbers with either Tanalised or a hard wood.As already said find the leak :thumb:and seal :thumb:
    terry
     
  14. Gromett

    Gromett Funster

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2011
    Messages:
    7,942
    Likes Received:
    14,024
    Location:
    UK
    I found an electric heater (not gas) and a dehumidifier to be the best.

    Magnums at grimsby also stock loads of materials and are a very helpful bunch.
    http://www.magnummotorhomes.co.uk

    Good luck with the repairs.
     
  15. hilldweller

    hilldweller Funster Life Member

    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2008
    Messages:
    26,475
    Likes Received:
    25,169
    Location:
    Macclesfield
    Cheap as chippies.

    A wooden frame is light, cheap and low skilled in manufacture. It's been done that way since Roman times. To change to Ali would be a mega expensive move. New machines, new skills, more expensive materials, more expensive vans. It's not going to happen.

    The fibreglass vans managed it by borrowing skills from boat building I guess, not many of them are there. And they are heavy.
     
Loading...

Share This Page