Is this a) legal and b) safe? (1 Viewer)

Minxy

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Why not get all the various bits you need from cktanks and splice in a duct from an existing heat source thro the wall. All you would need to do is cut an existing heating "pipe" splice in a Tpiece bit on heater "pipe" drill a hole using an hole saw and insert duct. As said before ALL the bits you need are available from CKTanks
he doesn't have blown air
 
Sep 10, 2012
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As already said get a small fan heater and move it where u need it. Make sure u take it out of bathroom when showering or washing.
 

Allanm

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As already said get a small fan heater and move it where u need it. Make sure u take it out of bathroom when showering or washing.
That would only work when hooked up to mains, as would the heated towel rail, so the fan heater would be the easiest way to go.
If heat is needed off grid then an outlet of some sort from the Carver heater would be best.
As an aside, we have a standard wall light switch and 3 pin socket in our bathroom in France and they fully comply with the Norme.
 

pappajohn

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Or you could install a 12v rail like which does away with the mains electrical problem, but will knock hell out of your leisure battery unless you manage it carefully.
30watts maximum....what's that going to heat ?
Our downstairs toilet isn't much bigger than a motorhome bathroom, we have a 60watt tube heater AND a 120watt towel rail. Still doesn't warm the room.
 
Jan 28, 2008
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In many kitchens 1000mm is simply not possible. I've seen a few where 300mm isn't possible either.

In those cases there is no breach of 512.

If you wanted to use the regs for a motorhome installation (yes I know they don't apply) then the same would apply - it's not usually possible to get a distance of 1000mm or even 300mm so there is no breach.
that may be so but you try and get a sparks on site to put one near a sink they obviously dont know the rules

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that may be so but you try and get a sparks on site to put one near a sink they obviously dont know the rules

It's another case where common sense rules. If it's possible to get it further away then that's where it will go. If it's not possible to put it anywhere else then it can go there.

I've been that spark on site so I know the sort of thing they get asked to do.
 
Nov 11, 2013
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Our Carthago has a 230v socket in the bathroom, on the wall above the sink and opposite the shower. It must get damp regularly when the shower is used. I have to admit we don't use it much 'cos it scares me.
 

meanders

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30watts maximum....what's that going to heat ?
Our downstairs toilet isn't much bigger than a motorhome bathroom, we have a 60watt tube heater AND a 120watt towel rail. Still doesn't warm the room.
That's as maybe, but they do suggest using multiples.
Single 12V Thermorails are usually installed in multiples of 3 or 4 but as many as required can be installed as a set for maximum impact.
Realistically I agree, it will knock the chill off, but not provide a real source of heat.

It's another option though.

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RogerThat

RogerThat

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Thanks for all the replies and suggestions everyone (y)

Your bathroom seems to be exactly the same as mine ( Swift Royals 610 1997). I have the same problem, this is our first van without a heated bathroom.
Is your heater under the wardrobe next to the bathroom?

Yes, that's the one! Did you ever install a blown air modification?

Congratulations on your novel idea - in recognition of which I have nominated you for a Darwin award just in case you go ahead with it.

Oh I've got plenty of those already, they're somewhat overrated I must admit :LOL:

Just have a quick shower!

Showering isn't the problem, the room heats up in the blink of an eye when the shower is on. It's the cold throne in the middle of the night that's one of the issues.

The other is drying towels in the middle of winter :)

There is a vent visible between the toilet and the sink.

Alas, as @Minxy Girl pointed out, that vent goes to the outside :cry:

Or you could install a 12v rail like which does away with the mains electrical problem, but will knock hell out of your leisure battery unless you manage it carefully.

Interesting! I had no idea something like this even existed! Wouldn't be a problem if I was on EHU though would it? Or would the current draw damage the battery?

Surprised that blown air vent not included in bathroom in all mhomes, our RVs and since euro boxes have as standard, I like a cosy sit and read when on the throne.

I don't even have blown air, never mind a toasty vent in there :(

Why not get all the various bits you need from cktanks and splice in a duct from an existing heat source thro the wall. All you would need to do is cut an existing heating "pipe" splice in a Tpiece bit on heater "pipe" drill a hole using an hole saw and insert duct. As said before ALL the bits you need are available from CKTanks

Ok, so here's something else I'd not thought of...

Could I (realistically) upgrade my 18 year old Carver heater to something that supported blown air?

I'm leaning more towards not doing this electric towel rail project now, for quite a few reasons listed here...

So perhaps Plan B would be drilling a hole in the wall through to the wardrobe where the heater is?
 
Feb 27, 2011
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Surely an electric kettle uses electricity and water?

I believe an immersion water heater uses electricity too.

So it is possible...


JJ :cool:

The big difference is, you are not in the water with the electricity in a kettle or an immersion heater :p

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Allanm

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Our Carver heater is the same and with it being just convection it struggles to keep us warm at the moment with low temperatures outside
I believe you can buy a blower kit and extra vents to fit on the rear of the heater, I did this once before on an early '90's Swift caravan and it worked very well. Meanwhile, I am considering fitting some sort of vent between the wardrobe and bathroom as long as damp air doesn't get sucked into the wardrobe when the heater is off ( in warmer weather)
 

Minxy

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As a general rule anything that produces heat which can be left on will be so under powered as to be useless or so highly powered that it can only be used for a very short time otherwise you'll flatten your batteries. There's nothing that you can leave on for the night time wander unless you are on hookup. If you don't want a cold bum in the night then something like this would help!

51r%2B9UDepsL._SY355_.jpg


Amazon product ASIN B00JGM9VWQ
Or a padded one and just pop it on loosely when you go for a sit down job!

s-l1600.jpg


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RogerThat

RogerThat

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I believe you can buy a blower kit and extra vents to fit on the rear of the heater, I did this once before on an early '90's Swift caravan and it worked very well.

That's interesting... so I don't have to remove or replaced the gas heater? Kits are available to modify what I already have??

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RogerThat

RogerThat

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Here's my gas heater:

advert8.JPG


And behind it:

2016-10-22 13.03.10.jpg



Not sure if that pump would get in the way of any blown air modifications?
 

Minxy

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Its not just the back, although from memory it goes where the large removable disk is on the upper part, but you also need the front switches too ... not sure what it would cost but I doubt it would be cheap.
 

Minxy

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Just found this on Ebay, not sure if would work with your fire:

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some fire diagrams here:

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Feb 22, 2008
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Just fitted electric rad in bathroom , 120w thermostatic element , two heat settings cost £89.99. There were cheaper ones but with less bars.
Don't like drilling mhome so ran cable along bottom of door surround moulding attached with heat glue.
I may drill through at RH side to hide cable to socket which is original factory fitted. I have used 13a plug with switch top.



image.jpeg
 
Nov 18, 2011
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I fited blown air heating to one of my vans riped out the old heater put a venT through the roof and used a blown are set up from a caravan had it checked and got advice from a a gas fitter it wasent that hard to do it tane me abut two days to fit and run the ducting
total cost abut £120 punds what a difrance it mad both in warmth and condensation just get a good cabon monoxid detector ensuer that the is a good vent hole below the new to you heeter
bill
 

Louis

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Easiest solution: plug in fan heater, open shower room door, put fan heater in room & switch heater on, close door as much as poss, get naked, open door, remove heater & leave on in hallway', go in & close door, shower & dry yourself, step out into warm hallway.
Why remove heater ?:cold::rofl:
 

two

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I’m not sure what the towel rail is intended to achieve but the proposed location does not seem very practical. Try a dummy one, first, if necessary. I think it will stick out too far and any towels will get in the way of the lid when raised. There are other ways to dry or hang towels. If additional heat is required, I doubt that and electric towel rail would be very effective.

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Kevan

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My Rapido as got Alde rad in bathroom, and a electric socket right next to the toilet, factory fitted, wife use's it to charge her toothbrush.
 
Last edited:
Feb 22, 2008
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image.jpeg
I’m not sure what the towel rail is intended to achieve but the proposed location does not seem very practical. Try a dummy one, first, if necessary. I think it will stick out too far and any towels will get in the way of the lid when raised. There are other ways to dry or hang towels. If additional heat is required, I doubt that and electric towel rail would be very effective.

This is the one I fitted in our RV and it kept the bathroom very warm as does the one I have fitted in our present mhome photo above in #80 with the bonus of a nice warm towel to dry with.

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