Injector problem on 2004 Fiat Ducato JTD

Discussion in 'Motorhome Chat' started by Paul Smyth, Jun 30, 2016.

  1. Paul Smyth

    Paul Smyth

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    The usual problem with the red light coming on began the problem and slight cylinder missing and misfiring but then it stopped for a day or so. Red light appeared again but no misfiring for an hour or so then it began. I was in Porto but limped to Lisbon to a garage who did the disagnostic on the Friday and showed No 4 was the problem and required to be replaced. Drove to Bosch myself and bought a new injector at a cost of 349 euro and returned to the garage and had it fitted on the Monday at a cost of 50 euro. Drove from the garage and was not gone more than a mile and the red light returned and the misfiring began again. Returned to the garage again and they tested and retested and could not understand the problem they phoned Bosch which was of little value so I ended up driving from Lisbon to Almeria with a new injector at a cost of 400 euro and I still have a problem. Any suggestions would be appreciated
     
  2. dave newell lvs

    dave newell lvs Trader-Vehicle Services

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    It will be the injector wiring loom is a bit too short and pulls on No4 injector causing a poor connection and misfire. Its a common problem on Ducatos of this generation.

    D.
     
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  3. Paul Smyth

    Paul Smyth

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    Thanks Dave any idea how to sort it as I will be taking it to a garage in Almeria so any help and I will translate it to Spanish before I go
     
  4. PP Bear

    PP Bear Funster Life Member

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    All the same symptoms for me, had no4 injector diagnosed, but I knew it wasn't that. Gave me the right run around for weeks. I extended the loom as some forums suggested it might have been too short, cleaned all connectors etc. It was intermittent and really hard to pin down. Checked the throttle actuator and was working find.

    Ended up finding the turbo dump/boost was sticking. So drove up on my levelling ramps and had someone rev the engine while I watched to see if it was working properly and it wasn't moving at all. Freed it off with an adjustable spanner and lubed with some spray and it was like driving a new vehicle.

    Might not be the same with you, but that was my experience after having the same symptoms. Even my mot tester had commented on the misfire, but now all gone and a quick fix as well :)

    Hope it helps.

    Pictures of the turbo and dump/boost as some people call them.
    image.jpeg image.png
    Ps, not my engine, just pictures from the net showing the turbo and actuator/actuator rod
     
  5. dave newell lvs

    dave newell lvs Trader-Vehicle Services

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    Extend the wiring to No4, although it's not a job I've ever had to do personally. The dump/boost valve mentioned is properly called the wastegate. Its job is to allow exhaust gases to bypass the turbine when maximum boost pressure is achieved. A non working wastegate will cause one of two faults depending on vehicle age and type, on ealrier vehicles the wastegate is most likely to be stuck in the closed position which will lead to an "overboost" condition during hard acceleration/hillclimbing, you may see a warning light on the dash. This is a dangerous situation as an "overboosted" engine can easily grenade itself to destruction. On later vehicles the wategate's "normal" position is open and it is closed by an electronically controlled actuator when boost is needed. The former is dangerous the latter is a failsafe design. A stuck wastegate (in either position) is unlikely to cause a misfire.

    D.
     
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  6. Paul Smyth

    Paul Smyth

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    Thanks to you both for all your help at least I have something to go on now and I will extend the wiring but do I need to buy a specific type of wiring connection or can I just extend the cable and make sure I have a good connection.
     
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