If you could would you leave your heating on 365 days of the year (1 Viewer)

Nov 3, 2016
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Lets say there was zero cost for electric.

Would you prefer to leave your heating on 365 days a year so it never gets cold or damp?

There is the obvious extra wear on the heater. But how robust are they? We have a 2015 Swift Escape 696 with a Truma combi heater and it runs well. I dare say in winter if I set it to just maintain 15 degs to keep a decent temperature to keep the whole van warm but without whacking the machine to much it would do ok.

Or would I kill its life by a long way? Come warmer months it would probably never even have to turn on. But during these cold months is it worth it?
 

Theonlysue

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Not long enough!
When I was on hook up at home, I left on constant 15 and let the thermostat do the work. I worked all week, and went away in the van at weekends.
Over 3 months, in the winter, this added approx £60 to my electric bill.
Worth it in my mind, as any damage may have cost a lot more.
 
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funflair

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Leaving the heating on will ensure that the van does not get cold BUT it will not keep damp away, indeed it will encourage damp as warm air carries a lot of moisture and this will settle on any colder areas.

Just try pouring a glass of cold white wine and a glass of room temperature red, which one is covered in condensation in a warm room.

So to get back to your question No I wouldn't leave it on all the time.

Martin

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Mr B

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We leave ours on low/thermostat when at home and parked up. If we're not going away for a few weeks, I open all the cupboards, and the doors and drop the bed down. :)
 
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Feb 24, 2013
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not long enough
we leave ours on all the time, thermostat set at 12C, that is on hook up at home, never really checked the cost of doing it, presume it is masses led than repairing burst pipes

our worst waste other than the heat is an Alde heater when on automatically heats the water, so even if above 12C the water heater will be on constantly
 
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funflair

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we leave ours on all the time, thermostat set at 12C, that is on hook up at home, never really checked the cost of doing it, presume it is masses led than repairing burst pipes

our worst waste other than the heat is an Alde heater when on automatically heats the water, so even if above 12C the water heater will be on constantly
You can drain the domestic hot water side of the Alde and still run the heating David, indeed you are supposed to drain and refill now and again to re-establish the expansion air pocket in the hot water side of the boiler,

Martin

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davidathomas42
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You can drain the domestic hot water side of the Alde and still run the heating David, indeed you are supposed to drain and refill now and again to re-establish the expansion air pocket in the hot water side of the boiler,

Martin

Thanks Martin. I am still struggling to find the drain for that though. My previous post people mentioned trap doors and levers etc. I honestly can't seem to find how to do it. Most of the move'y bits if you excuse the bad wording just look like they are going to disconnect a pipe.

I have currently run the taps until nothing more would come out and then left them open with the pump and water heating off now. The main tank still seems to have about an inch of water left in it when I look through the big lid on it internally. I am assuming the catch pipe is slightly raised so you never get any settled bits coming through the system.
 
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funflair

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Thanks Martin. I am still struggling to find the drain for that though. My previous post people mentioned trap doors and levers etc. I honestly can't seem to find how to do it. Most of the move'y bits if you excuse the bad wording just look like they are going to disconnect a pipe.

I have currently run the taps until nothing more would come out and then left them open with the pump and water heating off now. The main tank still seems to have about an inch of water left in it when I look through the big lid on it internally. I am assuming the catch pipe is slightly raised so you never get any settled bits coming through the system.


Sorry don't know about Truma ours is an Alde full wet heating system with radiators and all that gubbins.

Dont you just manually operate the automatic dump valve?

Page 15 in the GB section might help you.

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Martin
 
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Allanm

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I used to leave our heating on 10 degrees C when we weren't using the van over the winter for a few days, it kept the chill off with no sign of damp.
On our latest van I put the water heater on if it looks like it's going to get cold, we never drain the van down and the water tank is inside next to the water heater.
I don't think you need worry about condensation or damp, your walls windows floor and roof are well insulated so you won't have any cold surfaces for condensation to form on and blown air heating is very dry anyway.
It might be different if you heated the van with exposed gas ( as in cooking ) or paraffin because both introduce moisture into their surroundings.

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davidathomas42
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Sorry don't know about Truma ours is an Alde full wet heating system with radiators and all that gubbins.

Dont you just manually operate the automatic dump valve?

Page 15 in the GB section might help you.

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Martin

Thanks. I posted that page on the previous post. Its a good explanation but the unit in Fig3 is what I can't locate for love nor money.

Fig4 there are loads of bits that look like that but I am not really sure.

I really need someone to point me to it physically or a picture of them pointing at it.
 
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Allanm

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I used to leave our heating on 10 degrees C when we weren't using the van over the winter for a few days, it kept the chill off with no sign of damp.
On our latest van I put the water heater on if it looks like it's going to get cold, we never drain the van down and the water tank is inside next to the water heater.
I don't think you need worry about condensation or damp, your walls windows floor and roof are well insulated so you won't have any cold surfaces for condensation to form on and blown air heating is very dry anyway.
It might be different if you heated the van with exposed gas ( as in cooking ) or paraffin because both introduce moisture into their surroundings.
You could easily check your humidity in the van by buying a humidity meter then adjust the heating accordingly, if necessary.
Remember, motorhomes have to achieve a certain level of ventilation to abide by the required build standards.

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Just been reading a similar thread on Carthago Owners and the OP has been told by both Truma and Alde that elements, fans and pumps are rated for 5000 hours use. :eek::eek:
If they only last for 5k hours you won't get many years of constant use.

Richard.
 
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funflair

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Thanks. I posted that page on the previous post. Its a good explanation but the unit in Fig3 is what I can't locate for love nor money.

Fig4 there are loads of bits that look like that but I am not really sure.

I really need someone to point me to it physically or a picture of them pointing at it.

Hi

Sorry didn't realise you had posted that link, you will have either Fig3 or Fig4 component but not both.

Warm the hot water a bit in the boiler then when you open the right drain hot water will come out, just a thought. if you have a few of the same looking drains they most likely all want opening anyway?

Martin
 
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davidathomas42
Nov 3, 2016
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Just been reading a similar thread on Carthago Owners and the OP has been told by both Truma and Alde that elements, fans and pumps are rated for 5000 hours use. :eek::eek:
If they only last for 5k hours you won't get many years of constant use.

Richard.
Yea that's less than a year constant so with clicking in and out and summer I would say 3-4 years maybe if you leave it on constant? Very very rough guess

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Aug 6, 2013
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I use a greenhouse heater at around 10 deg C. I don't agree that heating causes condensation per se. The circumstances that cause condensation are warm damp air in contact with a cold surface and in a MH only the cab glass will pick up condensate if a heater is used. If a MH is left well ventilated it will eventually assume the same temperature & humidity as the outside air. No harm in that. Damage occurs when the weather suddenly warms and certain parts of the MH, and the air inside it, are slow to warm up. They are now cold and bathed in warming, damp, air so metal in particular will pick up condensation. And by that I mean hinges, brackets, and so on but also the insides of audio equipment and televisions as well as areas where cold air is trapped such as lockers. Anyone who keeps tools in an unheated garden shed will be familiar with the effect. If the motorhome is heated to just above any potential dew point the above will not occur apart from, exceptionally, on the cab glass. The ideal control for a heater would be a humidistat but in the absence of same a small heater set to maintain a reasonable temperature will do much the same job.
I don't provide any additional ventilation and all bedding and clothing remains stored in the van. Lockers are left open.
 
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Derbyshire wanderer

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As we use it all year round, I leave mine at 11 dog when not in use. It is then an hours job to get it to a cosy temp. Personally I do not enjoy setting off anymore with a cold van that the cab heater takes two hours to get it comfortable.
Sod the cost, it's meant to be enjoyable not a survival test

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Dub Dog

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Always left mine on always in our caravan and it's on in the motorhome now and always. Never noticed much difference on the leccy bill, but then it's been that long I probably can't remember how much it used to be :xsurprised:
 
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Minxy

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We rarely have heating on in our van at home over winter, the only time is if we're inside doing something whilst it's on the drive, but more than likely just wrap up warm! We've never had any problem with condensation/damp as such but had a problem with a Swift where some of the paper-covered moulding on the edge of the shelf which ran below the upper cupboards rippled, and also in a Rapido where the outer surround of the timber doors (yes it was real wood) started to separate in leaving gaps - in both when the warmer weather came they went back to normal.

In our last few MHs and vans we've always left all our stuff in (clothes, bedding etc) and apart from it being a bit cold it doesn't get damp at all. Before we're due to go away hubby puts an electric blanket in the bed to take the chill off, that's it ... no problems whatsoever.

They key is to keep the van aired, on a nice day open the windows/doors for a while and let it 'breath' and also take it out for a run every 2-3 weeks to let it get the air moving round more, as well as give the engine, wheels etc a bit of 'exercise'.
 
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Nov 8, 2014
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Interesting thread, thank you.

I have taken delivery of a new Auto cruise Rhythm from Marquis, it should have come with the full winter pack which included a 5volt antifreeze system that keeps fresh and waste water from freezing, well you've guessed it 2 months later and I'm still waiting for this to be fitted but they have said next week, fingers crossed.
Question is does anyone have experience of this system?
As for using the MH during the cold weather I have and even with the windows on night catch the rear acrylic windows completely mist up, marquise sent me the leaflet from the manufacturer which basically says leave the MH on your drive and don't use it (the advise was laughable) I will post if your desperate for a laugh, Marquis are still sorting this one out as I use the MH in the winter and am not happy with the manufacturers response.
Question, any one had a similar problem with misting up.

Marquis, misting windows, heaters, that should overload the system, sorry JIM

Regards
David

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funflair

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The only window we have that mists up is the windscreen as that is single glazed, everything else is double glazed and no problem, we do keep the bedroom windows open at night and the vent open over the kitchen during the day and night.

Martin
 
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sdc77

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Thousands of vans on display at dealers all over the country through the winter months, I wonder if they heat them?
Why would they? I'm sure they are empty of water and hardly likely to be getting used.

On the other hand.. we use our all year round. If it's extremely cold we leave the vans electric heating on low ... if not then we have an oil rad in the van turned down low. The fridge/freezer is on with stuff in it and the internal doors are left open. There is also ventilation and we don't have any problems.

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denisejoe

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When you go to dealers to look at vans how many have heaters on, in 35 years never left heating on cannot see the point of it. start driving put heater on 10 minutes later and van starts warming up. So the answer is no

Joe
 
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Bailey58

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Why would they? I'm sure they are empty of water and hardly likely to be getting used. On the other hand.. we use our all year round. If it's extremely cold we leave the vans electric heating on low ... if not then we have an oil rad in the van turned down low. The fridge/freezer is on with stuff in it and the internal doors are left open. There is also ventilation and we don't have any problems.

It was a rhetorical question. :D

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Steve

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Heating is on 24/7 may be gas may be electric. set to 15c. set to 20-22 during normal use. 15c is good to sleep but 20+ I find too hot to get to sleep yes it must cost but tee shirt in van most of the time.
 
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I personally wouldn't leave any fitted appliances running during UK winter storage save a 500 watt electric panel heater (thermostat set to 14 degrees) as we are parked on drive with EHU. I do leave the grill door open to improve air throughput (via external grill) and a fairly large moisture trap (which I only had to empty once)

Not had any condensation, save a very little on the single glazed windscreen.

Hopefully we are doing the right thing

(admitting we are fairly new to MH, but have had years of experience and very few problems with boats)
 
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