Hymer vertical mood lighting tip

Discussion in 'Motorhome Chat' started by DavidG58, May 8, 2016.

  1. DavidG58

    DavidG58 Funster

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    Now this would have been so much better with photos, but I only set out to do a simple bulb change, or so I thought

    Beside our bathroom door we a full height light, totally useless and a massive drain on amps, so today I investigated updating it to LED

    First problem was getting at the bulb itself, the opaque cover is a very tight fit but that is all it is, we started at the bottom just in case we did any damage that would not be so obvious, but once started the centre plastic piece came out quite easily

    On mine the light is from an outdated rope style light, very dim and really not worth turning on, other than to give a faint night light if wanted maybe

    The end of the rope light disappears through a hole at the floor only just bigger than the rope, a slight pull on it and the rope came out leaving behind the critical power supply part completely unreachable

    We tried removing various drawers and panels that we could but got nowhere, luckily I had a good firend staying who has more than enough skill to handle tools, to my credit I did make the suggestion, but we had to cut a hole in the chipboard backing, (50mm hole saw)always knowing that it would be covered by the light unit when reattached (BTW we had removed the whole fitting by now anyway, you could actually go right through the back of the fitting and the chipboard but not really know where the cables might be

    Then although very tight we could get just enough access to the power cable to remake it and attach a length of LED strip, We went up one side and back down the other and now have a light worth turning on (y)

    being aware that some LED's are polarity sensitive we connected red to brown and black to blue, it didn't work, HYmer had wired the original back to front, the brown is negative blue positive, that will be EU standardising for you o_O

    job well jobbed, just the rope lights round the top of the cabinets to attempt at some time

    done the fluorescent above the cooker / sink a few weeks ago, really pleased with that, but have decided not to do the fluorescent below cabinet over bench seat next to sink, it has a dimmer facility that I have only just worked out how to use properly today, but the dimmer switch would not go well with the LED strip, not found one that will dim yet (got ordinary bulbs not strips or reels though) but maybe haven't looked very well, we rarely use that light as it has a downlighter either side of it
     
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  2. tonyidle

    tonyidle Funster

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    There is no reason to assume AC conventions apply to DC wiring. Brown is commonly used for -ve (earth) on motor vehicles.
     
  3. DavidG58

    DavidG58 Funster

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    and is blue equally commonly used for positive? (y)

    I am not qualified to criticise, just thought logic might have got the day :)
     
  4. dabhand

    dabhand Funster Life Member

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    So glad you've done it, perhaps you could do mine now that you know how!:) Seriously could do with knowing some of the detail as I've changed all mine apart from the ones you mention, still can't get the dimmer one (below cabinet over bench seat) to even work never mind dim!
     
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  5. JeanLuc

    JeanLuc Funster

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    Yes, as has been reported before in several posts on electrics, Hymer (and other German manufacturers) normally use brown for -ve and either blue or black for +ve in 12V installations. You will see the same when checking the battery connections - on mine the +ve is black.
    Hymers used to be delivered with a circuit diagram in the manual and information pack - not sure if that still happens. Might be worth checking to see if you have one for future work. n.b. mine was in German (import van) so I had to make a translation of it but is gives colour codes for all the cables.
     
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  6. scotjimland

    scotjimland Funster Life Member

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    I assumed when replacing the water pump.... got it wrong.. :mad:

    One who should know better .. :confused:
     
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  7. Techno

    Techno Funster Life Member

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    We've all done it Jim :LOL:
     
  8. DavidG58

    DavidG58 Funster

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    Morning Simon

    That dimmer light switch, now I know how is relatively easy

    Top left is off

    Bottom left is on, but the key point I found yesterday is press bottom left and do nothing else for around 3 seconds, it suddenly comes on (y) (press and release that one don't hold)

    Top right is dim down and bottom right dim up (that's sounds like an oxymoron but hopefully you know what I mean) another key here though, you have to press and hold till it changes which seems to take a short delay to start changing, if you just touch it nothing happens

    Just got to try and remember till next time I use it for real :)

    Hopefully, if you have a go at your vertical light it will have a little more length accessible, mine was a farce being so short, just pull it out more gently it literally poked out by about 20mm when we found it with the 'extra' hole (y)

    Have you done your light over the hob / sink? That took a while to sort out but is now a job very well done, nice bright white for working, as you will know that is the only light that gives anything to that area

    We are going to Misterton and Stratford, very happy to show you what we did, (that is show not do) I am really not good enough to work on my own, let alone somebody elses :LOL: but if you have a roll of LED lights it is pretty straightforward, provided you can access the end of the cable :)
     
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  9. dabhand

    dabhand Funster Life Member

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    I shall try the above as I have plenty of spare tubes!! But have never yet got it to work David, will be changing kitchen, and toilet strop light eventually, might just leave the lounge "mood" lighting for when on mains as it looks like an almighty faff to change it, did you bother changing the shower light?
     
  10. DavidG58

    DavidG58 Funster

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    I had forgotten about the shower, that has 2 x fluorescent tubes, should be another easy change to LED but not on long enough to worry about really, like you I bought extra tubes for that when I bought last ones (y)

    I reckon the rope lights round the top shouldn't really be too bad, now I have seen how they fit together, it is just a case of finding the end fittings though to get power, but probably wont both either :)
     
  11. dabhand

    dabhand Funster Life Member

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    And regarding the fluorescent over the bench seat, (and maybe all fluorescents I'm not sure!) the led fellow at one of the shows told me on the Fluorescent fittings, I would have to cut/ remove a wire on the fitting, think this was something to do with taking the starter out of the circuit, can't remember, I'm sure someone on MHF can explain that to us!
     
  12. tonyidle

    tonyidle Funster

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    Yep - playing smart ar*es comes at a price I've found :rolleyes:.
     
  13. DavidG58

    DavidG58 Funster

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    definitely remove or at least remove from the circuit, I have left one in place just in case I need to go back and use it again sometime. Connect the incoming DC directly to the LED strip (y), fluorescents I think convert DC back to AC
     
  14. dabhand

    dabhand Funster Life Member

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    You'll need to explain that one to me(n)
     
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  15. simsy56

    simsy56 Funster

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    I tried to get 'mood lighting' for the missus, but nowhere can I find miserable bulbs!

    Craig
     
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  16. JeanLuc

    JeanLuc Funster

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    Fluorescent tube fittings have an inverter circuit in them to convert 12V DC into 230V AC which is required to power the tube. If you do not bypass this module when fitting LEDs, you will 'blow' the new lights. Also worth noting of course that the 'normal' circuit in a fluorescent fitting is at mains voltage so not to be worked on without ensuring the 12V feed to it is switched off!
     
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