Help please - internal cleaning (1 Viewer)

Charlie

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Recommendations please for cleaning inside. Many of you will know that Helen is a mature Hymer and before I commence our odyssey around France at the end of April I would really like to give her a real birthday scrub inside. I did a sort of wipe over last year but now I have the time I would like to do a proper job.

I did a quick scan of the thread titles on this forum and none seemed to answer my question. So help please, I need to clean the roof lining, which is a hard non cloth type, the walls - usual board with an irregular surface and the floor (I removed the vintage shag pile last year leaving the "lino" exposed). I gave the floor a wipe over with washing up liquid and rinsed which brought is up quite well.

So suggestions please, I do not mind spending the money and have a supply of elbow grease, simply want to get her well turned out.

Thanks for any suggestions (suggestions about scrubbers to be relevant please)!

Clive

There is a do it all fantastic product that can be used on almost all surfaces inside a Motorhome. That product is Autosmart G101. It's about £14 for five litres from you Autosmart rep.

Simply mix it weak for delicate surfaces like a headlining. Mixed stronger it has huge cleaning power. Always mix weak and up the ratio never go in strong. It's a trade based go to product and one of the very best I've used.

It's ideal for indoor stuff like showers and all manner of jobs. It really is an incredible product ! 5 litres will last you a few years. It completely out performs hundreds of household products.
 
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I can't see Indys post that describes exactly what has happened ? But am I right in saying the superglue is on paint that is on metal or is it on composite Motorhome bodywork ? Sorry I have looked through this thread but can't find enough to go on ..
It is on a car body not motorhome. The photo is at post #79

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Charlie

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There is a way of removing superglue off car paint. The problem is is that it's really one for the experienced. I will explain but I have to say it's not a DIY job unless you are very brave .Thing is it's a $hit or bust situation sometimes.

Heating the glue slowly and carefully has two results. One is the glue more than often shrinks while the metal expands. This can break the grip between the two materials. When I've done it I use a surface laser thermometer so I can see exactly how much heat I'm putting into the area. It sometimes takes several goes as obviously the materials retract and this also does the same but in reverse. Patience is the key .

Automotive paint has many variations in types and qualities. A top quality paint will take more stick from the process where a poor quality one won't. It looks like a Fist badge so the quality falls pretty much in the middle ground.

It may be possible to use chemicals but that is certainly not the way I would do it !!

That is quite a lot of glue !
 

movan

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Indy .. just a possibility. I had an older car once and I bought a badge of an eagle from Halfords for on the bonnet near the badge. Would you be able to do something like that to cover the glued area?
 

andy63

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Heating the glue slowly and carefully
Ive helped get into a few roller shutter locks over the years that had been superglue by some lovely little scrotes. ..
Heat and acetone as I mentioned above usually worked but didn't think heat was an option on car paintwork...
It sounds like you say a bit of a skill and beyond most diy folk..
Andy

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Cleve

Cleve

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Hi all,

Pleased to see Charlie has come on and I will certainly look out for the autosmart van (I'll google in a minute and get his/her number), hope Charlie is able to sort Indy's problem as well. Charlie is our guru when it comes to this sort of thing.

I have been absent today chasing around like a blue **sed fly trying to reduce the contents of three addresses into one plus all the junk I have acquired in between locations.

Sunday is going to be a sorting out day - dump, boot fair, keep!

I saw stuff today I had forgotten I had.

Where are those girls when I need them.:wine:
 
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Hi everyone who has tried to help. I have sanded the area with a very fine paper and fairy liquid until very smooth then sprayed with correct paint colour , several coats later I've left it to harden, hope it's OK when I check it tomorrow !!
 

Charlie

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Ive helped get into a few roller shutter locks over the years that had been superglue by some lovely little scrotes. ..
Heat and acetone as I mentioned above usually worked but didn't think heat was an option on car paintwork...
It sounds like you say a bit of a skill and beyond most diy folk..
Andy

Andy I have to emphasise that extreme care has to be taken ! It really is a process that has to be done very slowly allowing the area to cool and then heat again.. Never try to accelerate the cooling down by say spraying with water ! This might crack the paint .
 

Charlie

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Hi everyone who has tried to help. I have sanded the area with a very fine paper and fairy liquid until very smooth then sprayed with correct paint colour , several coats later I've left it to harden, hope it's OK when I check it tomorrow !!

Never ever use fairy liquid as a lubricant ! It contains among other ingredients salt. Use just water or water and Detailing spray mixed.
 
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Cleve

Cleve

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I have been a bit involved yesterday and today so Helen has been neglected for a couple of days and looks like a couple more yet. Hopefully back on the job on Tuesday.

Hi Indy, saw the smiley after I had replied and I had thought it a little strange. Had myself a Homer DOH moment.

On a couple of the other threads elsewhere I have wished Jim had a little gizmo on the bottom for cringe.

This retiring is good but condensing 3 locations into 1 is a pain in the backside. I have so much junk. Back to Guernsey Friday (originally Monday) but I am counting on reducing everything to one location by close of play Monday now. Then it is a case of Keep/Boot Fair/ DUMP

Forgot to pick up bread and eggs today ....

edit

just reading through and I realise I still have to shift the junk from Guernsey, arghhhhhh
 

derek chilton

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i find that a mild washing up liquid is good and a good quality cloth do not rub the fabric side to the interior just across had a swift escape had that type of crinckly textuyre seems to cleani my van after i had the van a week no a year could not wait to trade it in cupboards fell off doors fell off fresh water tank leaked sorry can not go on so its now gone for a timberland what a different vehicle use mild washing up liquid good luck del boy

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Peter Sansom

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Recommendations please for cleaning inside. Many of you will know that Helen is a mature Hymer and before I commence our odyssey around France at the end of April I would really like to give her a real birthday scrub inside. I did a sort of wipe over last year but now I have the time I would like to do a proper job.

I did a quick scan of the thread titles on this forum and none seemed to answer my question. So help please, I need to clean the roof lining, which is a hard non cloth type, the walls - usual board with an irregular surface and the floor (I removed the vintage shag pile last year leaving the "lino" exposed). I gave the floor a wipe over with washing up liquid and rinsed which brought is up quite well.

So suggestions please, I do not mind spending the money and have a supply of elbow grease, simply want to get her well turned out.

Thanks for any suggestions (suggestions about scrubbers to be relevant please)!

Clive
I discovered that the Mr Muscle floor wipes are great for the job. £1.49 in the discount store. A couple are more than adequate. Wouldn't be surprised if they did ceilings too. Be careful of doing the plastic windows, don't use the proprietory window cleaners as they can damage the surface. You can get a special cleaner for that job. Hope this helps

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