Fridge on Gas - Won't stay lit!

Discussion in 'Fridges & Ovens' started by Dave and Ginny, Apr 22, 2016.

  1. Dave and Ginny

    Dave and Ginny Funster

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    Electrolux fridge on our 2002 B544 working fine under battery on the road and on EHU but although it will light on gas the igniter just keeps clicking away. Could do with it working for some forthcoming Wild Camping in Scotland and the Isles but even if I manage to get it out I wouldn't really know what to be looking for to remedy it.

    Only have the one top vent outside on rear wall, the lower vent is in the floor. I can see how to disconnect gas and it looks like three screws on either side in the front holding it it place. Is there anything else or does it just need a good push from behind and the front?

    I was thinking about getting a mobile fitter out to take a look...live in Nottingham, good idea? any recommendations?

    Cheers Dave
     
  2. Boycie

    Boycie Funster

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    Could be the thermocoupler. I would have it serviced to be on the safe side.
    Phil.
     
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  3. Lenny HB

    Lenny HB Funster

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    Normally a very tight fit and if you can't get at the rear a real pig to get out.

    It probably needs a new thermocouple, may be able to replace it without taking the fridge out, if you can get at it from underneath. Then the other end should connect to the control valve behind the front panel. That is if it is the type of fridge that I am assuming it is. May not be possible to do it that way with a double floor.
     
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  4. flatpackchicken

    flatpackchicken Funster Life Member

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    When did you last have it serviced !!!! Could be just needing a service as mine acted exactly the same as yours and had it serviced and bingo works perfect now !!!!!! Regards Garry flatpackchicken
     
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  5. scotjimland

    scotjimland Funster Life Member

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  6. Jimbohorlicks

    Jimbohorlicks Funster

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    First try cleaning the thermocouple tip -it may be coked over. The jet can be blown through with compressed air from a can ( computer air spray-poundland)
     
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  7. Whitebirdyman

    Whitebirdyman Funster

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    I had the same problem and tried all the tips above - clean it out, give it a service, replace the jet, replace the thermocouple - non of it worked.

    What was wrong with mine was that the selector switch that changes between 240v, 12v and gas was faulty. When it was replaced everything worked ok. My only other option would have been to replace the controller into which the thermocouple feeds, that would have been much more expensive than the selector switch.
     
  8. Dave and Ginny

    Dave and Ginny Funster

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    Never had it serviced in the five years we've had the van...:rolleyes:, it's always been a bit of a pig to get going on gas! I've had the flu off and cleaned that but that's about it. The receipts from early on show it's been a problem in the past on gas. I'll endeavour to try to remove it and have a look around taking on all the good advice. The hob is directly above the fridge...does that need to be lifted off to get the fridge out?
     
  9. scotjimland

    scotjimland Funster Life Member

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    can't say for sure but I would think not.. it may be very tight to get out though..
     
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  10. JeanLuc

    JeanLuc Funster

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    You may need to remove the hob in order to disconnect the electric cables. The 12v feed goes to a block on the top left above the power source knob. Hopefully there will be enough slack in the cables to allow you to pull the fridge forward. The gas connection should be accessible through the top vent at the left side looking in.
    I am assuming you have a similar fridge to mine - Electrolux / Dometic 97 litre.
     
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  11. glenn2926

    glenn2926 Funster

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    I had a similar problem. It turns out the van needs to be fairly level, within 3 degrees. So I turned the van round and now all is fine. Might be worth a try.
     
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  12. Whitebirdyman

    Whitebirdyman Funster

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    There is no need to remove the hob.

    There are internal screws inside the fridge holding it to the surrounds, take those out. You will also need to disconnect the gas, you can do that through the external vent, it is on the top left as you look at the vent from the rear of the Hymer. You can then work the fridge out, it will require a bit of pushing, pulling and jiggling, how much depends a bit on how often it has been out before.
     
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  13. Dave and Ginny

    Dave and Ginny Funster

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    I've had the six (three either side) screws out once before and I've disconnected the gas connection but I couldn't get it to budge by just pulling from the inside. I didn't try too hard in fear of making a bigger problem! I'll have another play over the weekend. Interesting @glenn2926, as I have found that when the nose is pointing skywards it tends to fire up first attempt! Just a very temperamental little so and so!
     
  14. dave newell lvs

    dave newell lvs Trader-Vehicle Services

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    It needs cleaning and servicing, simple as that. Van being level or not won't affect whether or not it lights and stays lit, it may affect its cooling ability but not the lighting of the flame. In 11 years of running my own business dealing with motorhomes I've replaced one fridge thermocouple and that didn't solve the problem, in that particular instance it was the energy selector switch that was at fault. I have yet to see a failed thermocouple on a fridge. Removing the hob gives much better access to everything fridge related and isn't particularly difficult so I'd take the hob our first, then the fridge.

    D.
     
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  15. JeanLuc

    JeanLuc Funster

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    Don't forget that the fridge is sealed, not just screwed in place. I once asked a Dometic approved engineer why he carried a bread knife in his toolkit - "to cut through the sealant that some manufacturers use" was the reply!
     
  16. DavidG58

    DavidG58 Funster

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    I do cringe when I hear folk asking for help fixing devices that generate Carbon Monoxide, OK in an emergency while on site, but they really should be checked and serviced by someone qualified for the work

    Please also check your CO monitor is working, particularly if you do 'fix' the fridge yourself o_O
     
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  17. Munchie

    Munchie Funster Life Member

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    Had this with ours. Turned out to be Truma regulator faulty!
    Changed regulator to a gaslow one ...problem solved!
     
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  18. Dave and Ginny

    Dave and Ginny Funster

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    I can understand your concern David and my CO detector is working fine. But does it not also come down to the level of competence of the individual? No harm surely in picking the brains of some of the very knowledgeable members on the forum, from where I will decide if I'm capable or not. I wouldn't attempt anything more than giving it a clean out as I'm sure the bottom area of the fridge will be pretty grubby.

    I'm afraid I'm also pretty sceptical with regards to those and I emphasise SOME, 'qualified' to do the work having been on the receiving end of some pretty shoddy workmanship over the years.
     
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  19. StitchesnFluff

    StitchesnFluff Funster

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    Some jobs are simpler than others and do not require a qualified engineer
     
  20. Dave and Ginny

    Dave and Ginny Funster

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    Just a quick follow up and a big thanks for the help and good advice from @Lenny HB, @scotjimland ,@dave newell las and everyone else that contributed to my thread.

    I didn't need to take it out in the end; removing the gauze vent set into the floor beneath the fridge enabled me to see that there is a cover on the rear wall behind the fridge and below the top vent but out of sight behind the bumper. Once all off, it was fairly straightforward to remove the burner and give it a good clean. Quite a build up of soot was evident. Put it all back together and it's now working as it should. So big thanks once again!

    P1140551.jpg P1140553.jpg
     
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