Fridge not working on gas

Discussion in 'Motorhome Chat' started by jenny and mitch, Mar 10, 2012.

  1. jenny and mitch

    jenny and mitch Funster

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    As previously posted yesterday, I took the outer lower fridge vent cover off to access the peizo ( which I can hear working in the automatic lighting phase ) and was going to try moving the peizo nearer to the gas pilot jet as HAGANAP kindly suggested, but after bending the shield plate aside I noticed a small solenoid in the pilot light gas line.. I can't smell any gas whilst my wife is inside initiating the starting sequence, but would I expect to ? its a very small jet and outside in the open air... Was thinking of trying to light the jet whilst the start sequence is working... Anybody know what size of voltage I should find at the solenoid ? ?
    ALSO, sorry to be a pain, anybody know where the 12 volt feed is for the oven peizo ?? Is it behind the knob panel?? All tips appreciated.. Mitch..
    .PS the oven is a Spinflo Caprice mk 3.. Ta.
     
  2. haganap

    haganap Funster Life Member

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    Can you see the ignitor? is it igniting?
     
  3. jenny and mitch

    jenny and mitch Funster

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    Couldn't see if the igniter was firing, but I could hear it "cracking off" well, but it is a bit shielded and hard to see in the day light. Do you know what the little solenoid is just up to the left as you look in ? ? It has two wires going to, but I only found 1.5 volts at it... I am wondering if it is stuck due to lack of use... Vans been parked up for a year at least..
    .Mitch.
     
  4. haganap

    haganap Funster Life Member

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    Hi if you can here it clicking then I would suggest the solonoid is working. If there is gas at the jet, and there and a spark at the ignitor it should work if tehy are close enough to each other.

    When the fridge wants to work it will click and keep clicking untill its alight, when cooled, go off and then come back on when warmed,

    Can I just ask a really daft question, you have gas working yeah? you have gas at the cooker? all when alight work fine, the heating works etc? no diming of all the cooker when more appliances are used?

    I always believe on keeping things as simple as possible. Too many people jump in at the deep end for relatively simple problems. (ive found to my own cost)..
     
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  5. jenny and mitch

    jenny and mitch Funster

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    I agree mate, after spending 45 years as a veh tech, I have often missed the bleeding obvious by going complicated... But yes , had all the oven and hobs lit ( with a gas lighter ) and the hot water works.. I will try lighting the pilot with the gas wand tomorrow.. Fridge does work on mains and battery.. We will keep smiling... Mitch..
     
  6. haganap

    haganap Funster Life Member

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    sorry mate, hope it didn't sound like granny and eggs and all that :Blush:

    Yeah that sounds like a plan, check to see if the ignitor is sparking (should be visable) and if it is, introduce them to one another :thumb:
     
  7. Reallyretired

    Reallyretired Funster

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    On the automatic Dometic fridges the solenoid controls the gas flow. If the solenoid sticks try tapping it gently, otherwise it may need replacement. The 1.5v is possibly a holding current as I would expect 12v to operate it.
     
  8. ciderman

    ciderman Funster

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    the ignitor will work even if the solinoid has not worked voltage should be 12+ volts as this is needed to open (and keep open ) the solinoid no volts no gas also the thermocouple could need checking and also the jet could need blowing out (remove and blow from front to back ) sometimes dirt,rust gets into the jet (hope not teaching to suck eggs):Blush:

    that's if if don't light with a match
     
  9. scotjimland

    scotjimland Funster Life Member

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    Presumably you have established a healthy 12vdc supply to the fridge at the main terminal block .. ?
    If so this Dometic bulletin may assist in testing the various components and finding fuses,..

    http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/R704B.pdf

    It is an electronic igniter (not piezo ).
    If no spark at the electrode, check the gap, should be 3/16" , if that is ok, then it is either a fuse in the igniter board, no 12v supply to the board. or a faulty board ..

    most of these problems are either either caused by a fuse blowing or dirty corroded connections.. I always start by checking the obvious, 12v supply healthy, no broken or corroded terminals.. the electrode gap won't change or need adjusting unless someone has been poking or fiddling with it ... or it's a geriatric fridge with thousands of ignitions under it's belt.

    A DMM is an excellent tool for fault finding, but it can give misleading results when testing supplies... for example , it may show 12vdc, but this is under 'no load' conditions, ie the meter isn't pulling any amps.. under load the 12v may drop off to nothing ..

    A simpler and often more reliable method for testing 12v supplies is to use a 12v 5watt lamp with a couple of long leads attached.. easy to see and won't give a false reading.. connect one end to a good earth and you are now free to probe and test without having to look at a meter..

    I have more electrical test kit than enough, but still keep a 12v test lamp in my tool box for testing fuses and supplies.
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2012
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  10. jenny and mitch

    jenny and mitch Funster

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    Hi Jim.. I am very grateful for your reply, I agree about the test lamp with a bulb ( got One )
    The Dometic test link will be a great help I will get out after the rugby and get stuck in .. Thanks again Jim.. PS. I can hear the igniter "cracking off" but despite trying to light the pilot with a gas wand, it won't light, Im not sure gas is getting through.. I will check with the aid of the test link you gave me... Yours Mitch..
     
  11. scotjimland

    scotjimland Funster Life Member

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    progress then.. looks like the gas solenoid is not working (as you already suspected) .. should be 12v on the coil ..

    if it has 12v, these small solenoid valves can usually be opened by taken the coil off then unscrewing the core .. more than likely it is gunged up ..

    or... just a blocked jet .. !
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2012
  12. Terry

    Terry Funster

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    Hi this may sound stupid but try lighting the flame with a match or taper--it will tell you gas is there and dry up the bits :thumb: it may well have got damp over the winter.Nothing to loose by trying this it only take seconds :Wink:
    terry
     
  13. jenny and mitch

    jenny and mitch Funster

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    Thanks Terry, I tried it with a gas, wand but its hard to see past the thin metal shield, so I will give it a last try with a match. I checked the resistance of the solenoid which was 50 ohms as it should be, I will take the van to the weigh bridge tomorrow to sort out my actual payload then come back and carry on.. Thanks Terry.. Mitch..
     
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