Ford Transit Chassis Motorhomes & Vans - Essential Cab Security Upgrades? (1 Viewer)

pappajohn

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It's Sold Secure & Thatcham rated & meant to be a "high security" & anti-pick lock so hope it's better than the type you mention
Possibly, but a lot of security lock manufacturers have moved away from this type of lock because they are, allegedly, easy to unlock.
 
Dec 21, 2010
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All our works vans have been into garage for OEBD plug moved from inside cab to under bonnet. All the locks have been blanked off and can only open doors with remote. The garage told me they advised to remove steering wheel but boss said no to that. We have 9 transits and 5 have had theft attemps in last 7 months. Touch wood since we had all this done, thieves have tried but not one gone yet. I guess they move on to easier targets.
 

TJBi

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Jul 26, 2014
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All our works vans have been into garage for OEBD plug moved from inside cab to under bonnet. All the locks have been blanked off and can only open doors with remote. The garage told me they advised to remove steering wheel but boss said no to that. We have 9 transits and 5 have had theft attemps in last 7 months. Touch wood since we had all this done, thieves have tried but not one gone yet. I guess they move on to easier targets.
Works vans are probably used sufficiently often for blanking off the locks not to be a major issue, though it could be inconvenient if the remote did fail to work at any time. It's my understanding that the in-key battery for operation of the remote is charged when in the vehicle ignition (presumably with the ignition turned on) and with vehicles that are not used as frequently as a works van (e.g. a motorhome) there is a risk that the remote will not work. (I've certainly found that after a couple of months during the winter on an 8-year-old key.) A long as there is another entry route (e.g. via the hab door), it shouldn't be a major issue, otherwise better to go for a Hykee replacement cylinder (but only if RHD).

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Dec 21, 2010
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I totally agree, the blue remote charges the battery whilst being in ignition. Although if you open up the blue remote there is no battery inside, I'm told it's part of the curcuit board. The old black remote was better in my oppinion as one could just change the battery. My two year old van has had two new remotes so far.
 
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Wombles

Wombles

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Had a query about fitting a Hykee lock from a Funster so thought these hints & tips might help others too:
Look at YouTube for fitting videos to get an overview.
When taking the internal door panel off remember to carefully disconnect the plug for the window switch.
The internal film can be peeled back but it's time consuming & stretches so probably easier to cut it & then tape it up afterwards.
The metal spring clip that holds the lock can bend & is a bit fiddly as it's in a tight area.
The foam sealant ring needs to be lined up with care as once stuck that's it!
Take time to line up the new lock barrel & get it into the right position.
It's worth shopping around for the best price on this lock & also the OBD protection box as there can be quite a difference.
As some sellers don't supply fitting instructions :mad: for the Hykee lock here are the instructions we received with ours attached below:
 

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andy63

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Jan 19, 2014
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Another security method which while it does not stop the van beng broken into is to fit a hidden switch which turns of the 12v supply to the fuel solenoid, no diesel .... no start

Peter

I know fuel solenoids were part of the fuel system on the old rotary distributor pumps... but not so sure they feature or are necessary on the high pressure common rail systems on most modern diesels with their electronically fired injectors...
Might have to look for another suitable circuit. ..
Andy..

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Clickem

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With help and encouragement from @Wombles I have replaced the drivers door lock on my 2013 Transit base with a HyKee lock. I attach a brief description of what was involved, in the hope that it might help someone else who is tempted to have a go

With the window closed, and having removed the 5 screws that hold the door panel, it pulls off, held by another 3 or 4 plastic trim clips

I did not disconnect the power cable but let the door panel hang on a wire over the door top to the mirror. I cut, and peeled back, the plastic sheet to give access into the door
Door Panel removed.JPG

The lock is held in place by a spring loaded metal retaining clip, which fits into the groove in the lock barrel. The clip should be gripped and slid away from the barrel

Looking inside the door after the clip has been removed, you can just see the grooves that the retaining clip fits in, and also the pin, partly hidden behind the window linkage, the pin needs to be pressed in, to release the lock from it’s sleeve
Inside door panel with spring clip removed and PIN visible behind window linkage.JPG

To push the pin in you need to insert the key in the lock and turn it clockwise. I found that the key should not be turned hard, better to try to press in the pin and gently twist the key back and forward, in a clockwise direction, to find the point where the pin will release

When the pin is depressed, turn the key anticlockwise and use it to pull the lock out of the door

With the Tibbe lock removed you can see the slots behind the head of the lock, where the spring clip holds it in the door, and also the pin that has to be pushed in, to allow it to slide out of its sleeve
Old Tibbe lock removed, showing groove for clip and PIN protruding.JPG

The new Hykee lock needs the seal fitting to the lock head. Then, push the key in and turn the key to a point where the button will push in, and the lock can then be slid into the lock sleeve, until the pin clicks out. Refit the spring loaded metal retaining clip inside the door

I taped up the plastic that I had cut and refitted the door panel

Hope this helps
 
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Wombles

Wombles

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Great guide & photos @Clickem - sure it will be useful to anyone considering fitting a Hykee lock (y)
 
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Wombles

Wombles

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There is now a newer version of the Hykee lock with an addded security bezel http://www.protectavan.co.uk/vehicles/ford/transit-2006-2013-hykee-replock

bezel-custom-replock_0.jpg


Thinking about adding this to our existing Hykee lock although it's £11.25 extra (plus VAT) if buying with a new lock it's listed at £25 (total £40.80 incl VAT & delivery) seperately :eek: http://www.protectavan.co.uk/vehicles/ford/transit-2006-2013/transit-2006-2013-security-bezel
Think some shopping around is required although there aren't that many suppliers :(

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Last edited:
Mar 23, 2012
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Fitted my new lock tonight found getting the old one out a bit fiddly but done now next the obd port lock ( with no instructions!!!)
 
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Wombles

Wombles

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Fitted my new lock tonight found getting the old one out a bit fiddly but done now next the obd port lock ( with no instructions!!!)
We did have some instructions for fitting our OBD lock but they weren't very good :( Think these products are aimed at mobile security fitters so manufacturers don't want to make it too easy for us motorhomers!
 
Jan 28, 2008
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a good pedal box is the best low tech deterent and the reverse seat lock

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