EGR valve blanking/cheating (1 Viewer)

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Thought as much, thanks for the quick reply Andy. Thinking of finishing the job completely now the weather is warmer
 

andy63

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way back in January when you started this thread I posted that I would try and clean up the inlet side and egr valve...
well finally got round to it and thought I would report back so to speak..
its a ford 2.4 tdci engine rwd. some pictures and thoughts in case it helps anyone.
its a 2008 van with about 48000 on clock.

20150330_130430.jpg inlet manifold off . ports are mucky but not as bad as I thought they would be.. egr valve at rear of block
20150330_130744.jpg inside the manifold .. again not too bad
20150330_132238.jpg the egr valve.. again not bad
20150330_131019.jpg egr to manifold connection. a little carbon. this is where the maf sensor sits and ive cleaned it a few times but the pipe isn't bad
20150330_170807.jpg removed the glow plugs and cleaned them up while I was at it.
20150330_180139.jpg manifold cleaned out and new seals.. horrible messy job cleaning the carbon but it was all quite soft.
20150330_204239.jpg mass air flow sensor cleaned..

all ready to put back and wondering if its worth the cost of getting the egr function deleted, as the whole lot was not as bad as I expected.... will give it some thought
ta andy
 
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I'm off to the land of the Scotts on Friday for 9 days then getting the custom stainless exhaust fitted 4th of June :cool:
Getting a new cooling unit fitted to my Dometic 3rd of June
Doctors 2nd June

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Oct 29, 2008
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Just spoke to my custom exhaust builder and he will do me a complete system all the way from the turbo with a dummy cat and bigger bore pipe with lifetime warranty for £380
Larger bore pipe doesn't mean you will get better flow, if you have no DPF and Cat the thing to look at is the silencers, I have only one with baffles to give enough back pressure then the other 2 (yes 2 as I wanted the exhaust quieter than on a commercial) are Vortex Raceflo which use sound absorbant material around the outside rather than baffles that slow the gasses.
 
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My throttle valve is now permanently lighting the check engine light.
(P0638 Throttle Actuator Control Range)
I believe that all my efforts to prevent water ingress were good but perhaps the corrosion within the motor body was already advanced enough that it was doomed to fail eventually.
I have bought the later Pierburg unit complete with adapter cable. Once I've fitted it I will disect the motor of the older Wahler unit to establish the issue.
£182 delivered
CA_06141513452130-X2.jpg
 
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This may well be the cause of the throttle valve fault. Clearly moisture has been in the rotor/stator compartment.
CA_06151512082252-X2.jpg

The throttle body itself has remained clean since the EGR was blanked.
CA_06151512100595-X2.jpg

New later Pierburg unit fitted and ECU fault and log successfully cleared
CA_06151512074649-X2.jpg

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Dec 21, 2010
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Hi Andy I have heard when you upgrade to the later Throttle Body one needs to carry out basic settings and reset the learned values otherwise it may effect hot starting. I dont know for sure if its just plug and play like most things but i know they do it at the dealers.

Dill
 
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Throttle is fine so I'd say plug and play (y) Maybe dealers pad the job out to bump up the price

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Oct 20, 2014
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Just found and read this thread from start to finish...great stuff!

I too would blank off the EGR but not sure if my van has one? its a 1999 2.8 Fiat Ducato idtd....any techies on here know if that engine has an egr?....
 
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Just finished our 2 week holiday and mainly running on French Diesel at about 82ppl. A very mixed bag of driving from narrow lanes D roads with roundabouts every few minutes to N roads and motorways. On the last 3 fills It has hit half on the tank gauge at about 280 miles +-5.
All the maths equate to 26.5 mpg, this is without exceeding 60mph too often.
I think I always kidded myself that I got better than 25 before but really it was nearer 24.
Considering I run mainly at nearly 4 ton I'm quite happy with the result and that it is very definitely not worse and I am unlikely ever to have a PO638 engine management fault ever again.
 
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I forgot to update my findings.
After our recent visit to the FUN meet at Malvern I was a bit late away due to having my fridge looked at so I drove much faster than normally and held it pretty constant at 75 indicated.
This actually improved the average during the trip and I can only conclude that it is producing more power in that rev range due to the fuel not being diluted with exhaust gasses as it would normally
 
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Passed another mot today clean as a whistle
Tester kindly pointed out some advisory maintenance
Brake pipe corrosion under cab, rusty sump pan (don't I know it) Waxoil cab chassis. Jubilee clip on hub gaiter
Strangely I now notice the anniversary of my mot has not been maintained. @Geo ?

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An update on the Tafmet device. Mine failed yesterday and just so you know the immediate symptom is erratic idle and smoke and the ODB scanner will reveal this is a MAF mass air flow fault.
I diagnosed that it was the culprit by disconnecting one wire from the old vacuum solenoid connector, the idle returned to normal immediately and the fault code changed to EGR fault.
So the engine now runs fine albeit with the engine light on.
So the only fix is to buy another unit but I have complained to Tafmet that it has failed prematurely . I await a response from them
 
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Tafmet have just responded with a refund for the new one I bought and asked that I send them the old unit
Fair enough

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Here is the ODB scan , the P0101 is the initial fault on failure and the P0403 replaces it after disconnecting

image.jpeg

image.jpeg
 
Mar 29, 2011
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On my previous 5.2 ton Hobby on the Iveco chassis I started to get fault light flashing and then into limp mode, I had a chaffed wiring fixed on the engine BUT I also used 2 treatments of Wynns gold additive as a precaution, i took it back for a check and they put it on the reader FOC and printed the engine report, he was staggered at the reading which he would expect on the 45k 3 litre to have a reading of .20 on the manifold BUT it had a read of .04, and the cat was clean as well, my Hobby was manual and I drove it to maximise the MPG which as we know means chaging gear at low revs and I cruised around the 60mph and as has been said in an article I read this does not rev the engine enough to clear it, I am also sure that after using the additive my MPG improved slightly as well. they told me that a manual clearance of the manifold would be silly money if it got that bad.
I would think that all the posh diesel being promoted as the moment at an inflated price also contains the same sort of additives that are in the Wynn's.
I have recently changed mine for an RS with an agile box and it was a bit of a shock when at low gear it can go uo to 3k revs when starting off uphill it takes a bit of getting used when you are programmed to change gear at under 2.5k revs.
So in my limited experience don't bugger about blocking things just give it a treatment occasionally and also give it some it some revs occasionally which is what these commercial vehicle chassis's were built for originally.
My previous 10 reg Hobby is on sale at Oaktree if anyone is looking for something extra good and reliable

Dave
 
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It runs miles better blocked and my emission is only 0.02

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Mar 29, 2011
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It runs miles better blocked and my emission is only 0.02

I forget the exact wording but if the chamber on / from the manifold gets blocked up to manually remove it they have to remove the manifold and all the bits that go with it, so does blocking it just remove the sensor problem but leaves the problem itself to get worse. I am not expert so can only relay my experiece.
 
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I've not had the pleasure of reading this thread through so excuse my post if it is not relevant but
the exhaust gases being emitted by the engine back into the combustion chambers can have a cooling effect and helps to prevent exhaust valves from overheating, which can accelerate their wear and tear.
 
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I forget the exact wording but if the chamber on / from the manifold gets blocked up to manually remove it they have to remove the manifold and all the bits that go with it, so does blocking it just remove the sensor problem but leaves the problem itself to get worse. I am not expert so can only relay my experiece.
I haven't a clue to what you're on about
I don't have a problem with the engine at all only the electronic device that failed

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andy63

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I forget the exact wording but if the chamber on / from the manifold gets blocked up to manually remove it they have to remove the manifold and all the bits that go with it, so does blocking it just remove the sensor problem but leaves the problem itself to get worse. I am not expert so can only relay my experiece.

Im not sure I've got what you are saying but think you are refering to the pipe that houses the manifold air flow temp and pressure sensor... and also the egr valve feed to the inlet manifold...
The sensor pipe and manifold can get severely Carbonel up... The only way to cure that is removing those components and cleaning them.... blocking the egr valve prevents it happening again...
It's good policy to clean the whole inlet side from turbo to manifold before blanking the egr valve...
Is that what you are getting at in your post?? If not sorry :)

I've not had the pleasure of reading this thread through so excuse my post if it is not relevant but
the exhaust gases being emitted by the engine back into the combustion chambers can have a cooling effect and helps to prevent exhaust valves from overheating, which can accelerate their wear and tear.
Hi buttons the reading I've done suggests that the egr function is there to reduce the oxides of nitrogen from forming by effectively cooling the combustion process by introducing small amounts of exhaust gas.. I didn't think that it had an adverse effect on valves burning out etc by blanking it off... do you know that people who have blanked it off have had those sort of failures.
Andy
 
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The EGR cooling unit is only circulated engine coolant (HOT) so it cannot reduce the temperature any lower than the intake air & fuel mix so adds nothing to the equation.
Nothing positive that is! but plenty of sh1te :eek:
 

andy63

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The EGR cooling unit is only circulated engine coolant (HOT) so it cannot reduce the temperature any lower than the intake air & fuel mix so adds nothing to the equation.
Nothing positive that is! but plenty of sh1te :eek:
Im getting lost here lol...
By recycling exhaust gas into the combustion space that has the effect of cooling the combustion process...ie those gases can not be re burnt and help reduce combustion temperature... That in turn helps prevent the production of various oxides of nitrogen helping prevent pollution...
Are we in disagreement over that...?:)
Andy..

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