EBL 119 LRM1218 wiring diagram (1 Viewer)

Neckender

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I have fitted 200 watt of solar panels and a second Varta LA 95 ah battery, a LRM1218 controller to our new Globecar, it has an EBL 119 electroblock and a LT 100 display panel.

Which of these wiring diagrams do I use.
 

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SandraL

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Ok, suggest you download a copy of ebl119 manual. If you google it aan caravan services have a download available. Or you can get it from schaudt website.
I think that your jpeg 511 and 513 are the same and the ones you want. The large cable goes into ebl and original plug is plugged into new cable. This gets power to starter batt. The 3 way plug with 2 wires cable goes to ebl and supples power to charge leisure batt. All becomes clear, ish, when you look at schematic drawing at back of the ebl manual.
 

Lenny HB

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With your control panel you just need the 3 wire loom in DRG 512, the other drawings are for older EBL's and the 2 wire loom is not used with your panel.

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Neckender

Neckender

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Thanks to you both, I wired it as SandraL describes and wasn't sure if this was right so tomorrow I will alter the wiring to how Lenny suggests.
Thanks again.

John.
 
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Neckender

Neckender

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@Lenny HB Thanks Lenny it's all working great after I rewired to your suggestion and fitting the 15 amp fuse in the solar section of electroblock. Have I set the top switches right at setting B2.
Thanks again for your help.

John.
 
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SandraL

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Good to hear its working ok. Much more elegant solution with the 3 wire cable. Sorry I confused things with my reading of an older manual.

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Lenny HB

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I think you may have the wrong switch setting the Varta LA 95 is an AGM, I'm fairly certain you need B1 for AGM2 charging regime. AGM1 only charges to 14.4v where as AGM2 is 14.7v.
B2 is for wet cells.
 
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Neckender

Neckender

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Thanks Lenny that sounds right as it's showing 14.3 on my plug in tester.
I will go out now and alter it and check the reading.

John
 
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I have recently spoken to a technical guy at Duracell as my batteries are Duracell.
I had the option of setting the charge rate to 14.7v max or 14.4V max.
I was advised that you only need the 14.7v charge regime for deeply discharged batteries 12.3V and below. I was advised that there is no benefit in charging up to 14.7V every time. Without adding a temperature sensor on the battery 14.7V charge rate is not advised.

So I'm tempted to leave mine at 14.4v and if the batteries are deeply discharged (probably never) I can reset the regulator or use the mains charger.

What annoys me is why is the van fitted with a voltage display that doesn't show up to 14.7v when the batteries can charge up to that voltage?

See you at Peterborough.
 

JeanLuc

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In their catalogue, Varta recommend the following charging regimes:

AGM batteries
  • Absorption stage - 14.8 volts / current amps at 25%-35% of nominal battery bank size Ah
  • Float stage - 13.8 volts / current amps at c. 1% of nominal battery bank Ah
Flooded Lead-acid batteries
  • Absorption stage - 14.4 volts / current amps at 10%-15% of nominal battery bank size Ah
  • Float stage - 13.4 volts / current amps at c. 1% of nominal battery bank Ah
 
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Neckender

Neckender

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I've just connected hook up to our Campscout and checked the voltage and the reading is 14.5 volts. I have 2 Varta professional LA 95 ah agm batteries and set the LRM 1218 to 14.7 volts setting so is this correct.

John.
 

locsuna

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Hi John, I'm dipping my toe into the murky waters of solar also on a Campscout. Any chance you could let me know your set up and how you got the cables to the ebl 119. Trying to get the van sorted for first trip away. Thanks

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Neckender

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Hi @locsuna here are some pictures of my installation,
1st is where I drilled the roof and fitted my cable gland.

2nd are of the semi flexible solar panels and brackets.

3rd & 4th Is where the wires came through into overhead locker, l couldn't get the wires into the corner as I wanted.

5th is the seat belt pillar which I took all screws out and it pulled forward slightly off clips and Imanaged to get the wires behind. Pushed back on to clips and refitted screws.

6th just shows where the wires came through the base and under the seat to regulator.

Hope this helps.

John.


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locsuna

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Thanks mate, I've got a better idea now. I'd considered taking out the cabinet to the left of your entry point but so many screws are covered with those stick on tabs. like your idea.
 
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Neckender

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The only other way which I now realise I could have gone was to put the cable gland behind the awning on the other side and came behind the drivers side pillar and running the cables under the drivers seat to the passenger seat, it would have needed longer cables but then the gland would have been hidden more and I wouldn't be looking into the overhead locker wires.
By the way I used 6mm solar wire and to stop the wind lifting the flexible panels I put a dab of sikafex where the panels touched the roof ribs and it's all quite solid and air can circulate beneath the panels.

John.

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Neckender

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@locsuna are you using the Schaudt LRM 1218 controller or a different one, I used the Schaudt and that's the reason I came the way I did.
If using a different controller you can bring your wires down the other side into overhead locker fit your controller then run down to the batteries under drivers seat and all would be hidden.

John.
 

locsuna

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I'm hopefully keeping it simple and using the Schaudt. Great minds... I was just thinking about running the cables under the floor.
 
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If using a different controller you can bring your wires down the other side into overhead locker fit your controller then run down to the batteries under drivers seat and all would be hidden.
Just widening this out to general principles, rather than Globecar specific:-

Sometimes practical & aesthetic considerations override theoretical best practice, but all other things being equal, it is better to position the controller as near to the batteries as reasonably possible. The voltage is higher on the panel side of the controller & the current is lower, so less voltage drop per metre in this cable run than between the controller & the batteries.

I note you have used 6mm cable between the panels & the controller. In reality, if one uses equally substantial cable between the controller & the battery, the difference in total output is likely to be minimal, especially for parallel wired panels. On a different van, with longer overall cable runs, it could be a worthwhile consideration though.

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Steve and Denise

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John did you not get the compleat harness with your LRM 1218 and data cable as I have this to do in the next couple of weeks.
We did get a fitted price from a firm but at £850 for 200w inc reg I will most likely be doing this job myself.
 
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John did you not get the compleat harness with your LRM 1218 and data cable as I have this to do in the next couple of weeks.
We did get a fitted price from a firm but at £850 for 200w inc reg I will most likely be doing this job myself.
The EBL119 has no data input so requires no cable
 
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Neckender

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John did you not get the compleat harness with your LRM 1218 and data cable as I have this to do in the next couple of weeks.
We did get a fitted price from a firm but at £850 for 200w inc reg I will most likely be doing this job myself.
@SteveandDenise I got a complete wiring kit with the LRM 1218 plus had to download installation instructions. 200 watt of semi flexible panels, Brackets, 6 mm cable, LRM1218, roof cable gland and sikafex cost me approx. £430.
I also bought a second 95 ah AGM battery from Germany cost £205 delivered to the door, our local 8 miles battery store wanted £235 for the same battery.
My system is working great.

John?

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Steve and Denise

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The EBL119 has no data input so requires no cable
I am not sure what the Ebl number is till the van is delivered but I have done some reading up on the anndncaravanservices web site and thought it was a necessity for the readout to function correctly ?
 
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Neckender

Neckender

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Made a balls up of that @SteveandDenise if you download the installation instructions there is a list of parts and I'm almost sure that one is a data cable.

John.

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locsuna

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Hi John, thanks for your help and ideas. Just come back from first nerve racking trip away after sticking down two 100w panels. Everything seems to be working a treat. Not sure the LRM is on the right setting yet. I think I have it on the lead/agm positions at the mo..seems to put out around 14.4 or 14.7 depending on switching options. Again thanks.
 
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Neckender

Neckender

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@locsuna if AGM batteries you need it set 14.7 as @Lenny HB informed me.
Just one thing does your display panel read 100% when fully charged, as mine reads 100% whilst charging but drops to 75% when charged but when I read my battery monitor it reads 13.6. And when I've used some of the battery charge say during the evening my display can drop to 50% but again when I read my battery monitor it reads higher and my display should be reading 75% not 50%.
I'm just wondering if my display panel is faulty.
Glad your system is working fine it's a good feeling when you've done it yourself.

John.
 

locsuna

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Hi John, yes it's a good feeling. It did show a full 13.5v on the display but that was short lived and it seems to be a constant 12.7v. I haven't put a meter on the battery yet. My confusion comes with the indicator lights. In the Schaudt instructions it talks of green and yellow lights. I' got a green light but the other is orange??? Both are on most of the day but go out as the sun sets.

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