Drilling a motorhome acrylic window.

Discussion in 'Top Tips & Tricks' started by Taran_Las, Mar 16, 2015.

  1. Taran_Las

    Taran_Las Funster

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    Has anyone drilled an acrylic window?

    I have condensation between the two surfaces and before buying a new window would like to drill a couple of holes in an attempt to remove the moisture and reseal by inserting some plastic bungs. If you have drilled a window did you drill a small pilot hole first followed by the correct size or did you go for the correct size hole in one pass? How critical is drill speed? Any other tips/pitfalls to be aware of?

    Thanks (in advance) for any help you can offer.
     
  2. emmitdb

    emmitdb Funster

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    Acrylic is 'Soft'.
    It will easily melt if subjected to heat. That includes using drill bits on it. (try touching a drill bit after it's been used.)

    First of all, stick a piece of insulating tape at the point of drilling. That will stop the bit from wandering. I would drill a pilot hole with a very small diameter bit and then "Slowly"!!! drill the right hole, not using a lot of pressure and take the bit away regularly to cool down.
    Good luck
     
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  3. bungy

    bungy Funster

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    make sure its a very sharp drill as well !!

    One thing though...you need to try an find whats causing it first...probably a delamination on the edges, or around window locking/opening bits and bobs. Could run some Capt Trolleys on any of the edges, should solve it
     
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  4. Popeye

    Popeye Funster

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    I know we shouldn't correct spelling but in this case you might not ever find out what bungy is writing about........Capt Tolley
     
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  5. bungy

    bungy Funster

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    good point...and it just confirms what Phil already knows....im off me trolley:LOL:
     
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  6. hilldweller

    hilldweller Funster Life Member

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    Our windows had a recall, four screws to each window because some flew off.

    These windows have two little pressure vent at the top corners, why reseal ?
     
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  7. JeanLuc

    JeanLuc Funster

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    Do the windows not have breather holes? Ours have a hole on each side through the inner skin, near the struts. The holes are filled with plastic plugs that have a cross-shaped air vent (hard to see).
     
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  8. signworks

    signworks Funster Life Member

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    sorry to disagree with bungy but dont use a sharp drill blunt the drill bit on a piece of steel as a sharp drill will grab and possibly crack the window if you can try a test piece of acrylic
    before you drill use sellotape were you are going to drill the oil in the tape will cool the acrylic down and stop it from melting and give you a clean cut
    try do it in one pass no pilot hole unless you are drilling larger holes than 12mm

    cheers tomi
     
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  9. jollyrodger

    jollyrodger Funster Life Member

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    Drilled one or two in the past and the same as number plates :
    slightly blunt drill and not a lot of pressure let the drill do the work ,drill though a bit of masking tape or similar to stop slipping .
    As has already been asked have you not got small robber breather bungs ?
     
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  10. bungy

    bungy Funster

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    well...looks like ive been lucky sofar then with the sharp drills and plastic/perspex(y)
     
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  11. bungy

    bungy Funster

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    different windows type

    Phil is looking to reseal after getting rid of the moisture,it will just happen again, but yeah, could leave the holes open
     
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  12. hilldweller

    hilldweller Funster Life Member

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    Very. There is special sharpening angle for plastics, very shallow.

    I'd even suggest a hand drill if he has such a thing.
     
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  13. musson

    musson Funster

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    you could try a soldering iron with pointed bit,having said that all the caravans i have owned had plastic plugs
     
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  14. TERRY&PAULINE

    TERRY&PAULINE Funster

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    we had this problem with our door glass drilled 2 small holes from inside at the bottom cured the problem didn't seal them up seems ok now
     
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  15. Taran_Las

    Taran_Las Funster

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    Thanks for all the suggestions.(y) Much appreciated (even from him who can't spell;).)

    Strangely enough only one sliding window & Heiki have plastic bungs in them. All the other windows are 'sans bung'. I'll have a look on eBay for some acrylic to perform a test on.
     
  16. Mattyjwr

    Mattyjwr Funster Life Member

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    Our windows get water in then it dissapears without any help from us. Is the water in your windows all the time? If you do need to drill, can you drill into the area that has water to help keep the acrylic cool?
     
  17. scotjimland

    scotjimland Funster Life Member

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    I would suggest the holes should be at the top.. that's where they normally are

    when the internal air warms up it rises carrying the moisture ..
     
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  18. Taran_Las

    Taran_Las Funster

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    The water appeared last summer after the van had been in for repair. The workshop (in France) was incredibly hot early in the morning (not sure if this contributed to the problem). This is only affecting one window. Noted - a good suggestion to drill into the area holding the water (for cooling). The sliding window has one bung at the top and one diagonally opposite at the bottom.
     
  19. Techno

    Techno Funster Life Member

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    I had no problem using a regular HSS bit drilling acrylic. The problem I envisage for you Phil is swarf and where it will go as you break through. It may be tiny but once you notice any you'll never get it out of your mind, draw the blind! :LOL:
     
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  20. John Laidler

    John Laidler Funster

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    As above, but for a slightly different reason. Counterintuitively, dry air is denser than moist air, so the holes should be at the top. The reason is water molecules are lighter than nitrogen molecules.
     
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