CONFUSING BATTERY %VOLTS /AMPS

Discussion in 'Tech/Mech General' started by gwyntaxi, Aug 25, 2015.

  1. gwyntaxi

    gwyntaxi Funster

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    Hi all,
    I hoping someone can shed some light on my problem,My van is a 2005 Hymer 655 starline,if you are familiar with the Hymer control,as you know,when you press the button for the battery readout,it displays the voltage in habitacion&vehicle batteries,it also displays the amperage and it's percentage.My problem is,when my van is parked on the drive and is on hook up before going away,the battery readout is usually showing 99%-100%,then press again and it shows my battery capacity is 229amps (cos I have 2x115ah leisure batteries),press again it shows vehicle battery 13.6v habitacion battery 13.8v.so away I go I am never on hookup when I'm away,I have a 85watt solar panel sunworks regulator,after 4 or 5 days the percentage obvious -ly starts to decrease as does the amperage,for example,rec- ently after staying at the ballon festival for 5days then movi- -ng on up to Malvern and staying another 5 days there, after
    the sun had been out for a couple of hours my batteries read as;vehicle 13.4v,habitacion13.8,BUT,when I check the AMPS
    and the percentages they read something like this; 58%- 134 AMPS,what I fail to understand is how the vehicle and hab; batteries can read 13.4v&13.v respectively,which to me indi- -cates that they are fully charged,but the percentage& AMPS are showing they are approimately 50 % discharged, my solar panel/regualtor is NOT fed via the electrobloc 101 but direct from the regulator to the leisure batteries,so I am confused by the two conflicting readings of fully charged volts,and 58% 134 amps.many thanks for any advice in clari-
    fying this problem.
     
  2. DavidG58

    DavidG58 Funster

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    my guess is that the controller is showing the input voltage from the solar panel, in the same way that when at home it shows the charge voltage, I suspect that you will only get up 99% Amps after a couple of days on mains charge
     
  3. Wildman

    Wildman Read Only Funster

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    the amps measures the current drawn or charged if you are running nothing and battery fully charged then there will be no amps shown. 12.8 is a fully charged battery 13.8 is the float charge from solar. By an hour after dark the surface charge disappears leaving you with 12.8 or there about. Any indication of amp/hours remaining is not accurate but merely a computation of charge in and current drawn over a particular time in conjunction with the size of your battery bank, it allows nothing for leakage etc.
     
  4. gwyntaxi

    gwyntaxi Funster

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    Hi DavidG58, thanks for your swift response,yes it does get up to 99% amps &230 amps after being on hookup for a few hours but what's reall -y baffling me is are my leisure batteries actually half-discharged when I'm getting these low read -ings and if they are, why does the control panel also show that whilst they are showing in this dicharg -ed state that they are reading 13.4volts/ 13.8volts.In other words are they half-discharged or what.
     
  5. Wildman

    Wildman Read Only Funster

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    the reading you are seeing is the charge voltage, not the at rest voltage of the batteries. Cover the solar panels then see what the meter reads after one hour or so. when it will report the actual not the surface charge voltage. (or check it at night)
     
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  6. gwyntaxi

    gwyntaxi Funster

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    Hi Wildman,Thanks for your response,but,I am still confused as to whether they are discharged or no,as to me with no load on them say after dark then I expect to see a reading of 12.6-12.8v
    but I would also expect to see somewhere in the region of 90% and a content of approx 200amps as the solar panels have been trickling in a charge all day.
     
  7. Wildman

    Wildman Read Only Funster

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    we have not had a lot of really sunny days and the sun is getting lower in the sky so charge rates are much reduced a lot depends on how much you are taking out, if it is more then going in the battery will never be fully charged off hookup. Then again could just be old knackered batteries.
     
  8. gwyntaxi

    gwyntaxi Funster

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    Hi there Wildman,I understand what your saying regarding lack of sun /sun low in sky,but I taking much out just the usual pump use little bit of led lighting in late evening,virtually no TV,and I've had the batteries checked and they are A1,its just that I wouldn't knowingly like to take my batteries down to 585 charge every time I'm on a 10 day+ trip other they won't be A1 for very much longer.
     
  9. gwyntaxi

    gwyntaxi Funster

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    Thanks wildman,I will give that a try,I am runni- -ng out of ideas at the moment.
     
  10. Lenny HB

    Lenny HB Funster

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    As you have a Hymer I assume you have Gel batteries, to fully charge Gel batteries, they need to be taken up to 14.3 volts and held at that voltage for 8 hours before reducing to a maintenance charge of 13.6-13.8v. If your solar regulator is set to wet cells or non adjustable it is probably reducing to 13.8v as soon as the terminal voltage reaches 14.3 so your batteries are never getting fully charged.
     
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  11. gwyntaxi

    gwyntaxi Funster

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    Hi there Lennhb,my batteries are not Gel, they are lead/acid and the electroblok is set to this,hence my confusion.
     
  12. JeanLuc

    JeanLuc Funster

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    I think with the EBL101 you would be well advised to switch to a Schaudt solar regulator and feed it directly into the EBL if you are prepared to spend the money. I have read of problems using other regulators with later EBLs and even with the earlier EBL99 and 100 the Schaudt regulator gives the advantage of charging both leisure and starter batteries. I think the system tends to give spurious readings, particularly the later LCD control panels, unless the solar output is fed via the EBL.
    Either a LR1218 (PWM) or LRM1218 (MPPT) regulator would work well and they are supplied complete with the wiring harness to link them to the EBL. In the case of the LR1218, the 'resting' voltage once the batteries are fully charged and with the panel in good light, is 14.2V.
     
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  13. gwyntaxi

    gwyntaxi Funster

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    Hi JeanLuc,
    thanks for the advice, I think I should have posted this sooner,as I have recently bought a new sunworks 15amp regulator to replace my sunworks 10amp as I intend to add another 90 amp solar panel and I dont know if it's too late to send it back for a refund.thanks for the advice anyway.
     
  14. JeanLuc

    JeanLuc Funster

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    If it is of any reassurance, I have a Hymer B630 Star-Line (2003) and it is fitted with an EBL99 and the older IT992 control panel (with twin needle meters). I have a 135W solar panel feeding into an LR1218 and directly into the EBL. This charges both leisure (2 x 90 Ah lead-acid) and the starter batteries. Solar charge current is displayed on the charging meter on the panel and battery voltage is displayed as normal by pressing the relevant battery selector switch (leisure or starter). The system works very well and everything is integrated.
     
  15. Lenny HB

    Lenny HB Funster

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    Take JeanLuc's advice and fit LR1218 regulator, Elektroblocks really do not like other solar regulators, some Elektroblocks you can connect another solar regulator to them, but you should not bypass the Electroblock, on some models it is defiantly not advisable . If you bypass it you stand a high chance of the Elektroblock shutting down when on EHU and worst case blowing it up, it's not worth the risk.
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2015
  16. gwyntaxi

    gwyntaxi Funster

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    hello again JeanLuc,
    thanks for the advice,as i mentioned in an earlier response,this solar system was fitted by Detroit Solar by the previous owner,so I think I Will have to take your advice and look into the possibility of getting one fitted or sourcing one & doing it myself.
     
  17. gwyntaxi

    gwyntaxi Funster

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    Hi Lennyhb,
    I think I am going to take all the advice offered & fit the schaudt regulator,thanks for the advice.
     
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  18. JeanLuc

    JeanLuc Funster

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    If you decide to do it yourself, the wiring is pretty easy and the LR1218 fitting instructions are clear. The biggest issue might be running cables from the present regulator location to the vicinity of the EBL if that is some way away. I am assuming that the present regulator may be near the leisure batteries but the EBL is probably under the driver's (LHD) seat. There is room for the LR1218 on the back of the seat mounting base (self tappers into the steel structure) but you will need to get the cables from the solar panel to it. This is best done by removing the seat, unscrewing and lifting the EBL (you don't need to disconnect the wiring if you are careful) then feeding the cables up through the rubber-sleeved duct in the floor pan under the EBL.
    If you decide not to do it yourself, I should take a trip to Dave Newell in Telford as he will know what to do, can source the LR1218 and gives a Funster discount Dave Newell Leisure Vehicle Services
    If you decide to do it yourself, Dave may be able to supply the unit, otherwise try Edgehill Motorhomes who sell Schaudt equipment Edgehill Motorhomes Nottinghamshire UK - Hymer or A&N who service Schaudt units A and N Caravan Services : Schaudt Electronics .
     
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  19. Taran_Las

    Taran_Las Funster

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    Out of curiosity, how does the EBL determine amps remaining ?
     
  20. pappajohn

    pappajohn Funster Life Member

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    A calculation between the batteries known AH rating and the voltage at any given time.
    As long as the batteries ah capacity has been entered at the control panel the voltage relates to an approximation of remaining amps reserve.

    100ah battery (no load) at 12.8v.....fully charged 100amps reserve
    100ah battery (no load) at 12.3v.....half charged 50amps reserve
    100ah battery (no load) at 12.0v.....discharged 0amps reserve
     
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