Battery problems ???

Discussion in 'Motorhome Chat' started by badge, Feb 24, 2014.

  1. badge

    badge Read Only Funster

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    Thanks to any help in advance .
    I have a Burstner motorhome , since owning her , she never ever makes a whole night on the 2 batteries fitted , 100/ 80 amp varta batteries .
    A fortnight ago , once having the habitation check done , I got the dealer to install 2 new 100 amp batteries .
    Which I thought problem solved .
    Took the family to France sking , first night , early hours same thing happened dropped below 11 volts shut down .

    So I'm back to square one , I can't imagine what happening , have solar panel installed , all led lights , 12 v TV , still drains the batteries ..


    O
    Please help .... I need to solve this one ..

    Thanks Paul
     
  2. hilldweller

    hilldweller Funster Life Member

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    Invest in a BM1 battery monitor, it will show you exactly what is going in and out of your batteries.

    We easily manage 3 days on a single 100Ah battery.

    One that surprised me was the radio connected to the hab batt and the current it took.
     
  3. Minxy Girl

    Minxy Girl Funster Life Member

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    When you say 'shut down' what exactly do you mean ... that all your electric power was lost OR that your heating stopped working? If the latter, what heating system have you got?
     
  4. haganap

    haganap Funster Life Member

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    Hi paul
    Good to meet you and the family last week and enjoy some white gold...:BigGrin:

    I would suggest the following--
    Firstly you are a large family with 6 in the MH and no doubt TV on and other gadgets you are going to spank them batteries.
    Also did you have the heating on and what sort was it? If it's blown air that's going to spank the batteries too.

    What you really need is a good battery bank, a good solar panel or two and maybe even a B2B for more rapid charging.

    However the battery quality is also really important. I would suggest some good traction batteries as they can discharge further therefore giving more ultimate usage. :thumb:

    Hope you got home safe and sound:thumb:

    Hope to see you next year
     
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  5. B-well

    B-well Funster

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    Paul. Check tv draw, as some do take some battery power if not designed for motorhome. seems large family and heating system may have some bearing on this matter as previous suggested.
    I just had week Ski trip x3 of us no hook up 110 amp battery x1 with no probs but conserved blown air heating to minimum usage as this draws a lot of currant.
    Hope you sort this one out as it will plague your thoughts for further trips, good luck.:Doh:
     
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  6. pappajohn

    pappajohn Funster Life Member

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    blown air heating......120watt/hr

    Tv....25watt/hr

    Lights....5 to 10watt/hr depending how many used

    Safe useable power reserve ....100amps (50% discharge is recommended maximum)

    150watts equates to 12.5amps therefore your 100 useable amps will last 8 hours assuming the above consumption over an 8 hour period
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2014
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  7. jonandshell

    jonandshell Funster

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    Haggers has the right formula Paul.

    The Alps were really mild this year, not really a harsh test for a van like yours. We have experienced the draw kids with gadgets put on your electrical system. Our 345 Ah bank could last three days with 24/7 diesel heating, laptops and icrap being charged, plus TV at night.

    Our solution is a Sterling Alternator to Battery charger and traction monobloc batteries. You'll need massive solar panels to keep up with the low winter sun and limited daylight hours.

    Usual routine for us was to recharge the batteries with a two hour run of the engine every other day. We also keep the fridge cool by running it off the inverter whilst on the ferry! We used the Harwich to Hook of Holland ferry, about 7 hrs.
     
  8. badge

    badge Read Only Funster

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    We have the Aldi heating , because we're aware of the problem , when we stop for the night to wild camp , we use the power cautiously , not many lights etc .
    Power internal at first shows ok , earl hours of the morning ,with the heating on part gas , with a few floor lights on so kids can get to the loo .
    The power drops below 11 bolts and switches off .
     
  9. badge

    badge Read Only Funster

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    Was brill meeting up with you guys , enjoyed the trip was great , and will definitely look forward to hooking up next year with some red wine , need to be converted lol .
    Kids were impressed with your ski lessons , made a big different .
    The Friday we went up the weather was quite bad up top , but the snow conditions were awesome , had great fun , then mid day sun came out .
    Was lovely , great last day ..... The best part was I came home in one piece lol .

    Will definitely take on board your suggestions Paul , thanks again ....
     
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  10. pappajohn

    pappajohn Funster Life Member

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    possibly your electronic control panel having a fit.......

    Ignore what the panel says and does, get a volt/multimeter on the batteries and see what the real voltage is.

    Dodgy panel sees 11v, even though the true voltage is 12v plus, and thinks....mmm! time to shut down.

    Never had a problem with old style manual control panels, but digital ones are nowt but trouble with a mind of there own.
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2014
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  11. badge

    badge Read Only Funster

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    Thanks for you input mate , most appreciated , hope you had a great trip , we certainly enjoyed ours .
    Going to have ago at the paragliding next year , really fancy it . Fancy it Paul ?.


    The whole ski trip takes forever to come round then it's gone ...:(:Sad:
     
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  12. haganap

    haganap Funster Life Member

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    Yeah deffo,
    Probably going to arrange a little get together at GB next year so paragliding = no problem :BigGrin:
     
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  13. jonandshell

    jonandshell Funster

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    Just another thought.......

    What is the cabling like between batteries and your distribution panel. If there is a fair distance between the two, a large voltage drop can result if the cable is too thin.

    Papa Johns suggestion of measuring voltage at the batteries would be a good way to diagnose this fault.

    Many motorhome manufacturers do not spec cable size correctly, relying on you being on EHU for the van to function properly!:Angry:

    Another cause could be poor electrical connection.
     
  14. peterc10

    peterc10 Funster

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    Are you sure about that figure? Truma says my 6E averages 1.3A, which makes 15.6W/hr. Even the short term max (which I assume is on start up only) is only 5.6A, which makes 67W/hr.
     
  15. Reallyretired

    Reallyretired Funster

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    According to my control panel the Truma on full whack uses 5A and 1A when its maintaining temperature (probably same as your figures but no decimal places) so Pappajohns a bit pessimistic. Trouble is OP has an Alde system, haven't a clue what that uses.
     
  16. Sidney

    Sidney Funster

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    If it's an Alde central heating system (glycol mix pushed around pipes and heating convector) the circulation pump draws just 0.2 A.
     
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  17. peterc10

    peterc10 Funster

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    Guess we are about the same then. When you say maintaining temperature does that mean with the fan on low speed or no fan at all? Looks like the Alde is more efficient with 12V though, which surprises me. I always thought it was easier to pump air than water!
     
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  18. JeanLuc

    JeanLuc Funster

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    What main charging system does your Burstner have and how is the solar panel connected (via what regulator and how is the regulator connected to the rest of the system)?
     
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  19. Wickolad

    Wickolad Funster

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    Hi badge, it may be an idea to put an ampmeter in line at your battery +be, with all lights heating and appliances turned off, oh and may be idea to isolate solar panel, pull fuse. This way you can see if there is power being drawn from the battery bank. Try items you usually use in turn, this should give you an idea of what is happening to your power.
    A real long shot.....if all appears normal when checking, leave the solar panel disconnected and leave all items powered as you would normally when using the MH. See if there's a difference. I say this as a bit of a long shot, but solar panels are usually fitted with a reverse discharge diode, to prevent the panels drawing power from your battery at night I believe. If this diode has failed, could your panel be pulling the power from your batteries as soon as daylight has gone. A long shot as I say, but something is dragging your power. I'm sure someone on here may be able to shed some light on this phenomena, no pun intended. :Smile:
     
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  20. SMB

    SMB Funster

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    Hi

    I posted this on a previous post:

    I had a power drain on my leisure batteries and was assisted by a very helpful motorhomer who knew what he was doing unlike me! He used the following tool to check all the circuits in the fusebox and identified two circuits that were constantly drawing 2.5amps each when the control panel was active, even though no appliances were being used on one of them! i had some work done to the van before I left England and the electrics are obviously goosed. I have removed the fuses until I return, only replacing them if I need to use the affected appliances:
    http://www.amazon.co.uk/Automotive-..._sbs_ce_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0005V6FM7ZSN28PMKEKY
     
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