Automatic hydraulic levelling systems (1 Viewer)

[DavidG58]

Had them added to our Hymer (Mercerdes) earlier this year following an uncontrolled rush of blood to the head

£5K poorer, generally very happy, fitted by SAP in Doncaster, great for stopping rocking when parked, we had no corner steadies on ours, but good for levelling on fairly level ground, have had a few issues where the ground seemed OK but system said too uneven, I know my Millenco Quattros would have coped easily

Would I buy for my next MH, probably

 

[Steve and Denise]

Thanks Steve
What did SAP charge?
Do they fully discuss the installation with you and where they are going to run and fix stuff?

Unfortunately 5k is the price, but this is a quality bit of kit that can be changed over if need be about £1000 we had the remote auto then there is no need to cut any hole for the panel. I do belive Mick Lieghty who owns SAP will be at Lincoln with a stand as I say Andy take a look at mine I know your standard of work and then go and have a chat with him about fitting

 

[Techno]

Thanks but I'll be in Germany and well put! that gives me confidence in using them

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[eddie]

The only van that I ordered that didn't have hydraulic levelling jacks on as standard, had them ordered as an option.

Once you've used you'd be loath to,have a van without them

Push a button and its job done, when arriving and the same when your leaving

 

[funflair]

Thanks Steve
What did SAP charge?
Do they fully discuss the installation with you and where they are going to run and fix stuff?

Hi Andy

We have E&P from Mick at SAP in Doncaster, we called in to see him and have a chat before I would let him have an order, great bloke and neat and tidy work, goes overboard on neat and tidy.

Normally just push the auto button but if the slope is too severe for the maximum stroke on rams no problem as you can put blocks under and run them manual, price depends on the weight of your van ours were like Davids at just over £5k. The set points are fully customisable so you can set a slight tilt if that is your preferred option, also two legs down on side to drain tank, as said great for changing wheels etc.

Happy with ours.

Martin

 

[laird of Dunstan]

Your all waffling you can't beat using blocks and ramps to level your mh , especially when its muddy and raining

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[funflair]

Your all waffling you can't beat using blocks and ramps to level your mh , especially when its muddy and raining

You must have shares in a clutch company

 

[Techno]

Are there specific user instructions? When I think about it I do realise that deploying the rear jacks with the handbrake applied can cause severe cable stretch, is this a noted fact?
(Alko torsion bar axle)

 

[Steve and Denise]

Are there specific user instructions? When I think about it I do realise that deploying the rear jacks with the handbrake applied can cause severe cable stretch, is this a noted fact?
(Alko torsion bar axle)

Not quite sure how that would be an issue as cables on my rear axels have more than enough lengh for a 90 degree rotation other wise you could not lift the van high enough to change the wheel without damage the rear shocker rod also limits the amount of travel. I have never had the need to strip an Alko axle but would suspect there is a limit/stop at the wheel end of the tube on each end. All that said yours could be totally different

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[Steve and Denise]

Oh there is a manual of sorts but only basic

 

[Techno]

Not quite sure how that would be an issue as cables on my rear axels have more than enough lengh for a 90 degree rotation other wise you could not lift the van high enough to change the wheel without damage the rear shocker rod also limits the amount of travel. I have never had the need to strip an Alko axle but would suspect there is a limit/stop at the wheel end of the tube on each end. All that said yours could be totally different

If you apply the handbrake as normal and then lift the chassis it stretches the inner cable. When greasing Alko Axles the handbrake must be off when lifting the chassis otherwise the cable takes the weight of the wheel and tries to lift it thus stretching it.
Obviously there is no need to have the handbrake on but I bet some do.

 

[Steve and Denise]

The inner and outer cable move at the same rate on our van so no diference and as I say the shocks stop travel at about 100 mm

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[Techno]

Mine groans if the handbrake is on as the torsion arm gets further from the chassis.

 

[zac]

I thought i read that the handbrake had to be on for the levelling to work?

 

[funflair]

Mine groans if the handbrake is on as the torsion arm gets further from the chassis.

I think the groaning is the wheels turning slightly and the brakes slipping, ours does when going up onto jacks.
Yes the handbrake has to be on.

Martin

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[Steve and Denise]

Mine groans if the handbrake is on as the torsion arm gets further from the chassis.

That will be the inner hand brake shoes that are fitted inside the discs as Martin says

 

[PAGR]

Just had E&P fitted to our tag and think it's great, and yes the hand brake does have to be on for them to work. If the ignition is on and you release the handbrake an alarm sounds and the jacks automatically retract as a safety feature. You can release the handbrake once lifted and ignition is off though.
The rear brakes do groan a bit in operation.

 

[Techno]

A thank you to Andy "Imbiber" for you extensive message about SAP Sorry I cannot reply as that requires subscriber privileges . You really ought to join a proper forum mate
Should you feel the need
t33_cno@hotmail.co.uk

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[Peter Sansom]

We had a couple of hand cranked on the rear of our last van. Didn't really use them much. Think it depends on what kind of rear overhang you're talking about too. Does the extra weight equal extra fuel?

 

[DavidG58]

Just had E&P fitted to our tag and think it's great, and yes the hand brake does have to be on for them to work. If the ignition is on and you release the handbrake an alarm sounds and the jacks automatically retract as a safety feature. You can release the handbrake once lifted and ignition is off though.
The rear brakes do groan a bit in operation.

that's interesting, but what do you do when leaving? If you forget to pull handbrake on before starting does the system recognise the hand brake is already off??

Our handbrake has a release option to drop the level but leave the brake engaged, Bev thought she had broken the cable when she 'borrowed' MY MH, the lever goes limp if you gently depress the button when handbrake is on, it then drops to horizontal out of the way of the seats.

Actually on our current Hymer the handbrake is not in the way when up so not really an issue for us, until Bev is let loose on her own

 

[morrow]

I've had them on my van for 2 years. I think they are great especially when it's raining no need to get wet just press the auto button.

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[Charlie]

How much effort and time is saved over putting ramps down ?

You still have to crawl under the van to put sole pads down ?

I watched a fella setting his van up on site two weeks ago and couldn't help thinking it was more messing than the simple Thule ramps we use.....

Cost aside its something that would no appeal to me..... Taking cost a a factor it makes me laugh...

 

[Popeye]

How much effort and time is saved over putting ramps down ?

That kind of depends how fussy you are or how uneven the ground is, but up to twenty minutes compared to some drivers I've observed.

You still have to crawl under the van to put sole pads down ?

No you do not, the systems used by most of us have the new enormous 8" diameter sole plates, having said that I chuck blocks under to keep the sole plates clean, takes all of two minutes to do if you dawdle.

 

[funflair]

Met with friends on a sloping site in Czech Republic, I put two block under the right side jacks and then manual level, all set up in a couple of minutes and everything level.

He tried to get a 6 tonne MH up on the blocks and gave up when he could see the clutch smoke, he moved to another pitch.

Might be expensive but I know which I prefer.

Martin

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[Techno]

I know what I prefer but it will have to wait

 

[Kevan]

A.S Air suspension are now doing a self level system supposed to be 40 kg, will have a Look at Lincoln, they did my air suspension and made a good job very neat and tidy

 

[jongood]

We have gliderite system and are pretty happy with it.

Its lighter and cheaper than E & P, its not quite as sturdy but its lighter and cheaper

http://www.glide-rite.com/category_s/12.htm

Its a manual system and we only put down plates if we re on sand.

Jon

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