asda engine oil (2 Viewers)

callumwa

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Don't forget the permanganate fading time! Fibre grade MEG and methanol were the worst. We used to carry PO on the gas ships under a nitrogen blanket; so glad I'm not at sea any more. One of my mates is old man on a VLGC - boring bus divers job Bonny to Futsu but good money.

PappaJohn, I see your point but some of those manufacturers specs are frighteningly similar to an API spec........ We do tests for engine makers as well.

Ah.....

Permanganate time tests... PTT.......:RollEyes::RollEyes:
or PMT as I call them:RollEyes:, we just do not have the gear on board to do them to the Lab specs of today.

Our PO is carried under nitrogen, purge tanks to less than 0.5% O2 now, adjacent empty spaces to less than 2%, before loading.

Hexene (C6), we now purge the tanks prior loading to less than 50 ppm O2, for cargo "quality" purposes:Doh:. We used to load it into coated tanks with just an N2 blanket........:Doh:

Same shit though, just like the oils, the producers spout ever exacting quality standards and specs, why, to increase profits and pretend they have an edge over the opposition.

::bigsmile:
 

pappajohn

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I totally agree John...
They for sure do not do it for nothing, they both combine to make themselves even bigger profits and give themselves a weasly get out clause for warranties.

Cynical I know, sorry.....:RollEyes:

My Civic 2.2Cdti apparently always had Castrol Oil from the Honda dealership, said so on the invoice and the sticker on the windscreen:RollEyes:, I have used a budget oil for years now since the warranty ended. No issues at all...

Do you actually know what the difference in the oil is between the Merc oil and the Rv oil apart from their own code "numbers". That would be interesting.

The Mercedes oil is a specific low ash oil and any other 'standard' 5w/30 will clog and destroy the diesel particulate filter...proven fact and well documented on both MB and Chrysler owners club forums....around £9 ltr but a new DPF is several hundred pounds so even needing 9.5 ltrs it is relatively cheap

FORD...No idea except it's a bloody expensive and needs changing every 3000 miles...replacing a £7000 engine or changing oil at 3000 miles....No brainer really

Strange how a 3ltr V6 takes 9.5ltrs yet a 6.8ltr V10 only takes 6.5ltrs.
 
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callumwa

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The Mercedes oil is a specific low ash oil and any other 'standard' 5w/30 [HI]will clog and destroy the diesel particulate filter[/HI]...proven fact and well documented on both MB and Chrysler owners club forums....around £9 ltr but a new DPF is several hundred pounds so even needing 9.5 ltrs it is relatively cheap

FORD...No idea except it's a bloody expensive and needs changing every 3000 miles...replacing a £7000 engine or changing oil at 3000 miles....No brainer really

Strange how a 3ltr V6 takes 9.5ltrs yet a 6.8ltr V10 only takes 6.5ltrs.


Sounds a bit like the fuel filters which got clogged with minute ice particles on the BA 777 which crash landed at Heathrow a few years ago.
The solution, they did not change the Jet A1 fuel supplies, they just modified the filter apertures so that the ice particles could not clog the filter......:RollEyes:

Reminds me of a Mazda 626 coupe I had years ago. I had loss of oil pressure on the oil gauge, then warning light coming on whilst touring France.

I cleaned the filter as best I could, and then eased the car home gently to Watford, and went to my Independent local mechanics in Bushey, (interestingly ex Vauxhall & Mazda main dealer guys).
Solution, they made the filter apertures larger, kept the car for another 30k without a problem.

Sometimes the problem is engineered, the solution is de-engineering......

::bigsmile:

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rainbow chasers

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FORD...No idea except it's a bloody expensive and needs changing every 3000 miles...replacing a £7000 engine or changing oil at 3000 miles....No brainer really

Strange how a 3ltr V6 takes 9.5ltrs yet a 6.8ltr V10 only takes 6.5ltrs.

Ford come out of the factory with havoline oil (texaco) which is what their race fleet run on. It appears ford engines run well on it.

The viscosity is thin nowdays due to something IIRC that is called by the acronym CAFE. It is all about miniscule improvements in fuel economy that governments demand for environmental reasons. Thinner fuel, less resistence internally and thus better economy - it does mean more servicing, and due to lower amounts of oil used on modern engines (near seizure in comparison) all to keep emissions low for the environment.

So engines need more changes of oil, they blow up far more frequently and often need replacing.......all good for the environment eh?
 
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I think there are three types of people...

1) those with no money who will buy the cheapest going.
2) those who have some money and want to buy to spec without going premium
3) those who believe all the marketing stuff and buy the premium..

None of these people are wrong. It is all about peace of mind in my view.
I have gone from type 3 all the way to type 1 now.

I used to buy the premium stuff as it gave me peace of mind. I then moved down to the branded stuff and didn't notice a difference.

I am now firmly in the the budget stuff and haven't noticed the slightest difference. I have bought a pair of tyres 4 months ago for £150 fully inc fitted. Working like a charm. I took a budget oil refill at the same time. It was some no name stuff. Engine loved it as it was the first oil change in over 4 years on this vehicle.

My non scientific view is.. If it meets the core specs and you are happy to use it why not? If you are able and happy to pay a couple of quid more for the branded stuff then the peace of mind this gives you is worth paying for.
If you have a top of the range vehicle that is brand new and can afford it why not get the premium stuff.

I think the the two key things here are cost and peace of mind. I really don't think there is that much of a gap in actual performance of engine oils when you are talking about motorhomes tootling along at 50(ish) mph.
If you have a ferrari or other high revving performance vehicle it may well be worth looking at synthetic oils with high spec.. But for us lot of chuggers probably not.
 
Nov 18, 2011
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I think there are three types of people...

1) those with no money who will buy the cheapest going.
2) those who have some money and want to buy to spec without going premium
3) those who believe all the marketing stuff and buy the premium..

None of these people are wrong. It is all about peace of mind in my view.
I have gone from type 3 all the way to type 1 now.

I used to buy the premium stuff as it gave me peace of mind. I then moved down to the branded stuff and didn't notice a difference.

I am now firmly in the the budget stuff and haven't noticed the slightest difference. I have bought a pair of tyres 4 months ago for £150 fully inc fitted. Working like a charm. I took a budget oil refill at the same time. It was some no name stuff. Engine loved it as it was the first oil change in over 4 years on this vehicle.

My non scientific view is.. If it meets the core specs and you are happy to use it why not? If you are able and happy to pay a couple of quid more for the branded stuff then the peace of mind this gives you is worth paying for.
If you have a top of the range vehicle that is brand new and can afford it why not get the premium stuff.

I think the the two key things here are cost and peace of mind. I really don't think there is that much of a gap in actual performance of engine oils when you are talking about motorhomes tootling along at 50(ish) mph.
If you have a ferrari or other high revving performance vehicle it may well be worth looking at synthetic oils with high spec.. But for us lot of chuggers probably not.

Well done who rely gives a s….t if it is API it is to the minimum standard for motor oil and that is a high standard so don’t knock it Ferrari with tight engine yes but bog standard engine no problem

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Snowbird

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The key is not price or spec, but frequency of change. Even though modern oils say they can be changed less frequently but at a premium price I still change my oils at 5000 miles as I have always done. Have never had an oil issue in millions of miles travelled. Four of my vehicles are well over 100000 milers, and all run on bio which some say will destroy the engine in 1000 miles :ROFLMAO:.
 

mike mcglynn

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Base Lube Oils

So where do these Asda "branded" oils actually come from before they are canned or bottled? On what evidence can you call the Asda oil "crap". Is there a technical specification for crap oil..

Some Asda value products (beans, cornflakes etc) also actually come from the main "branded" manufacturers.

We frequently carry high value refined oils and lube additives, such as transformer oils, etc. which we load from the same specific refineries. We have to undertake high spec (ppm) laboratory analytical testing of the cleanliness of our stainless steel tanks before we can even carry these products.
We then deliver these oils to various receivers who just "supply" the product without any additives or treatments and they change their brand name, however the shipping name is identical.

Some people alternate between branded and budget oils, others change more frequently. It's called choice.
As said earlier, if you are happy to pay more for the "name" do so. This is not just an oil thing, it's everything in life.

:Smile:

Hi,Callumwa I was a surveyor many years ago and then was a supervisor in a bulk oil terminal ,I can say that I have seen many shipments of oil coming and going depending on market prices and quality and demand ,many oil companies from giants to the small independant specialist just buy on the spot as it can be cheaper for them ,conversly there are trading companys who will buy a shipment of base oils various grades hoping to make a fortune and often do as each different storage tank will produce differing quality results as a matter of course the better the quality the higher the price, the demand is then greater and then that drives the oil co. to buy as much as they can store, some times we delivered out of the same storage tank to perhaps a dozen different producers the trading co. used to play one off against the other as the supply dwindled and the next ship was not due for a month or so :Doh:there is more fiddling than an Irish Folk Band

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rainbow chasers

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The key is not price or spec, but frequency of change. Even though modern oils say they can be changed less frequently but at a premium price I still change my oils at 5000 miles as I have always done. Have never had an oil issue in millions of miles travelled. Four of my vehicles are well over 100000 milers, and all run on bio which some say will destroy the engine in 1000 miles :ROFLMAO:.

Definitely! Every 3-5k with me - although I have slacked off with the work van this year:Blush:

First started doing it after I met a helicopter owner with the rustiest looking golf your ever did see. It was a 1.3 petrol, on an E plate - 390,000 miles and you had to hear that engine purr to believe it! It was quiet, and ran like new! He was used to changing the oil every 1000 miles, a little too regular for me, but he had the attitude that it was the lifeblood of the engine. His heli was changed every time it landed and he took a similar attitude with his car's oil.

Since I took up the 3-5k rule, I have had no breakdowns. Patrol when sold 576,000 miles and going very strong, Merc was 280,000, Landy 260,000 - all running sweet when I parted with them.
 

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