AES Fridge gas prob

Discussion in 'Tech/Mech General' started by derekfaeberwick, Jun 18, 2010.

  1. derekfaeberwick

    derekfaeberwick Read Only Funster

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    Hi there, my fridge, a DometicAES 2 R7505 won't start up in the gas mode anymore.

    It just clicks once or twice then the buzzer comes on and the red light appears.:Angry:

    Big bother as I need the fridge for my wee dogs insulin. (and my beer)

    HELP!!!:shout:
     
  2. robinmclaren

    robinmclaren Read Only Funster

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    just a thought check your gas, we had a duff propane while in cornwall, fire ok, cooker ok , fridge would not light , lit it manually ok but went out, took gas out of van opened valve for 10 seconds in open space , refitted worked fine, apparently air in bottle
    if not i dont know
     
  3. Johns_Cross_Motorhomes

    Johns_Cross_Motorhomes Trader - Motorhome & Accessory Sales

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    Possibility of thermocouple being duff if its getting planty of gas.

    Peter
     
  4. derekfaeberwick

    derekfaeberwick Read Only Funster

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    Temp repair.

    Right guys 'n gals, thinking caps on. A while ago I found that the in line fuse by the battery was heating up, melting the plastic in fact, and the gas was getting a bit tardy in lighting, a bit hit or miss but would start if I persevered with it. Yesterday though it just wouldn't light at all.

    Temp fix- I've disconnected the engine live to the fridge and it now lights straight away so I can now use it on Gas when travelling.

    The voltage from the aux battery to the fridge seems to drop after the engine was running and was unable to fire the fridge up in gas mode.

    Strange but any ideas? It now switches back and fore between mains and gas so at least I can now nip over the border to see the footy should the need arise.:Wink:
     
  5. Ferend

    Ferend Read Only Funster

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    I'm guessing that your fault is that the fridge would not light on gas after it had been running on 12V for a while?

    I suggest that you change the 'melted' fuse holder for a good quality one, it sounds like the current drawn by the fridge in 12V mode is too much for the existing fuse holder causing it to heat up. This will create a resistance, causing a voltage drop in the system which is probably causing the igniter to fail.

    Disconnecting the D+ (engine feed) at the fridge means that it's not running on 12V, so the fuse doesn't heat up, hence no voltage drop!
     
  6. derekfaeberwick

    derekfaeberwick Read Only Funster

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    I changed the fuse holder for a jumbo one 6 weeks ago and I thought I'd cracked it but the problem came back.

    After running the engine with the fuses in when I switch off there is a big voltage drop to the fridge from the hab battery, all very confusing.

    Could it be a faulty time delay caused by the AES. I'm just shooting in the dark now.[​IMG]
     
  7. derekfaeberwick

    derekfaeberwick Read Only Funster

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    Still help!!!:cry::cry::cry:
     
  8. Ferend

    Ferend Read Only Funster

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    Where are you measuring the voltage drop, at the fridge or the battery? What are the readings?

    If there is a voltage drop at the fridge but not at the habitation battery itself then there must be a bad connection somewhere between the battery and the fridge.

    I don't know if the AES system is supposed to drop the 12V power to the element straight away when the engine is stopped, I would guess so, but may be someone with experience of them can enlighten us...
     
  9. derekfaeberwick

    derekfaeberwick Read Only Funster

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    The power drop is at the fridge, the light goes very dim.

    The problem used to be intermittent but became full time after I disconnected the connections one at a time and made sure they were all clean and tight, they were.:Sad:

    Totally stumped now and the AES box on top of the fridge is not very accessible.
     
  10. Ferend

    Ferend Read Only Funster

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    It does sound like a bad connection problem. Have you checked all the connections in the +ve and -ve wiring between the fridge and the battery?

    You'll need to to get a multimeter to track the problem down, when the problem manifests itself take voltage readings at the 12V connector block on the fridge, and directly at the battery posts. Those readings will enable us to determine if there is a problem at the battery or between the battery and the fridge.
     
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