A bit of hard work

Discussion in 'Motorhome Detailing' started by Big bus man, Oct 2, 2015.

  1. Big bus man

    Big bus man

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    My MH is now 10 years old and the near side suffers from patchy chalking. I tried various hand polishing techniques with no improvement so after watching some YouTube videos on vehicle detailing I decided to buy a rotary polishing tool. The bodywork is GRP, it was always going to be trial and error take a long time and yes as many of you will know it's hard work but I have found the best method for me was to use 2500 grit wet & dry then a good polish with a finishing polish using a soft sponge pad on the rotors tool. Being a machine polish this involved taping all the joints and rubbers and also using a fine spray mist of water when needed. Still a long way to go but it works for me.
     
  2. Eddystone

    Eddystone Funster

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    That seems a bit drastic. Our MH is 15yrs old and the GRP comes up well with G3 if I have to use it. It is the dark colour that seems to need more attention. Be careful not do go through the gell coat.
     
  3. Big bus man

    Big bus man

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    I agree with you Eddystone, G3 on it's own does give a lovely shine if it is only cutting through oxidisation, problem is on one side only on the top half although it looks like oxidisation after heavy polishing on it's own it is still there. It does scare me using wet & dry on the GRP but I do it lightly, the panel looks nice and polished viewed side on but look down the panel you see these patches and they bug me. I am using G3 only on the roof and that works fine.
     
  4. musson

    musson Funster

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  5. Charlie

    Charlie Funster

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    Farecla G3 is an AOI polish. This means All In One.

    The fine particles that give the cut in this type of polish break down in size as heat builds . They then reduce cutting ability as you polish. Fine if it goes well but the polish is not predictable.

    You could start polishing and think why has the polish stopped working. Then add more and with the high level cut restored cut through the lacquer when polishing bodywork.

    GRP usually has a thick gel coat so liberties can be taken but be very careful if you polish the paint on your vehicles.

    G3 requires misting with water or it wont cut at all. It will bind and cause much marring to whatever surface you are polishing.

    Taking wet and dry to any finish is an EXTREMELY risky thing to do.
    If you sand through either the gel coat or the lacquer on paint HUGE damage will be done. On GRP you will see patches when viewed from an angle. This means the waterproof Gel coat has been polished through taking away its waterproofing ability. The panel is now defectively destroyed.

    If you polish through the lacquer or sand through the lacquer on painted ares like on the cab it will require re spraying.

    Wet sanding is only done by the most experienced detailers and ONLY when done measuring carefully with a dual layer Paint Thickness Gauge.

    4000 Grit is the heaviest cut paper that should be used and lubricated with a proper lubricant. Plain water will not do.

    Please take care. Repairing damage done when wet sanding can cost a fortune.
     
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