2000 (w) Boxer/ducatto Gearbox + Wheel Bearing Problems.

Discussion in 'Tech/Mech General' started by Spawn_e_git, Jun 7, 2015.

  1. Spawn_e_git

    Spawn_e_git Funster

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    hi everyone. I think this may be my first post on here. :)

    I used to use another forum but every thread there seemed to turn into a slanging match by the end:whistle:

    Anyway, a couple of months ago we brought a 2000 Boxer based MH.

    It's 2.5 D but has had a turbo fitted at sometime later.

    I have two issues that have arisen.

    1. I get crunching when changing from 2nd gear to 3rd. It is more common when the van has been driving for a while (>25m) and is not every time I change probably about 3 in 10 changes. No other gears are affected and 3rd down to 2nd is fine.
    I've put the front of the van on axel stands and I can "drive" it stationary and still have the same problem. The worst case I suppose is the syncromesh gone but the van has done only 30k even though it's 15 years old.
    If I pause and allow the engine revs to fall below 1500 rpm before I change it does not crunch.
    From previous owners bills etc I can see it has had the gearbox oil changed with the additional amount for th 5th gear.
    I plan to try and see if the clutch is binding a bit as the biting point is low to the floor. And change the gearbox oil for a synthetic type as when the oil is colder (therefore thicker) the crunch never happens.
    Does anyone have any additional checks/adjustments to look into?

    The 2nd issue is a squeal coming from the front offside wheel. Is is related to speed but applying the brakes does not change the pitch or silence the squeal. There is no rumbling noise that I have had with other wheel bearings and the fact that the brakes make no different when applied is confusing somehwhat. Any ideas on this. I've googled the wheel bearings and squeals and they either talk about a rumbling (not present) or the brakes needing a clean but in these case application of the brakes stops the noise but my noise continues.

    Anyway, thanks for stopping by this thread and any info whould be greatly appreciated.

    :D
    Mark.
     
  2. MikeD

    MikeD Funster

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    I am no expert but I suspect the synchromesh cones are becoming worn. Does it clunk in if you make a very slow gear change? Allowing the rev's to drop is maybe allowing the cones time to match speed before the gears engage.

    Squealing from the front offside sounds like you have maybe picked a stone up or the pads/ brake calipers binding. Does the wheel freely rotate by hand when you have it on axle stands?

    Else even if the above is totally useless advice. Welcome to the fun. :)(y)
     
  3. SandT

    SandT Funster

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    If the squealing is not affected by the brakes then perhaps its a belt slipping?

    Don't want to start a slanging match though!!

    Terry
     
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  4. Spawn_e_git

    Spawn_e_git Funster

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    Hi guys.

    Thanks for the reply.

    Yes syncromesh is the nuclear option but the 30k miles and that is not until it's warmed up that makes me hope that ours not.


    With the squeel is not engine revs related. So thinking drive related.

    Thanks for the replies. Will look at the brakes.
     
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  5. tonyidle

    tonyidle Funster

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    If you can engage reverse silently at a standstill (with a hot engine) then clutch clearance is not the problem. As suggested the squeal could be trapped grit. It could also be the extra driveshaft bearing on the OS driveshaft. It's a sealed bearing & offers no early warning of failure. It's also easy to change.
     
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  6. Spawn_e_git

    Spawn_e_git Funster

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    Clutch in reverse is " clunky"
     
  7. Spawn_e_git

    Spawn_e_git Funster

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    Ok update...

    Changed gearbox oil for semi synthetic made no difference when I tried it on the axel stands. I resided myself to a new gearbox and phoned around for quotes and vowed to just put up with it or avoid using 3rd gear.

    Took the van out twice since then and not a single crunch on both trips which we at least an hour and a half away so hopefully sorted it or at least put off the inevitable.

    Whilst doing the above and oil /filter change I sprayed wd40 around the drive shaft intermediate bearing and took the brake pads out for a clean up and squeal has also gone. If it comes back then I'll look at changing the bearing.

    Hopefully everything is now fixed (for now.....).
     
  8. Baldeagle7470

    Baldeagle7470 Funster

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    My van is the same age but was slightly higher mileage when I bought it.I found that the 5th gear was a kind of add on to the 4 speed box.I was told to do what you have done with the oil and mine is fine.
    Additionally it was recommended not to change into 5th before the oil had a good chance to circulate in the box.Guessing that is because its a kind of bolt on extra.
    I also was shocked to find that although the brakes worked fine on inspection the front pads had chunks broken off from the backplate due to long term standing causing rust and were actually falling apart !! Not to scare you but maybe another thing worth checking.
    Good luck with your new van.
     
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  9. Tootles

    Tootles Funster

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    Has your gearbox got the dipstick? If so, try this mod. It has worked very well for me. (y)

    gbox_dipstick.jpg
     
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  10. gus-lopez

    gus-lopez Funster

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    +1 (y)
     
  11. Flamenca

    Flamenca Funster Life Member

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    With the new level marked on the dipstick do you stil have to fill the gearbox and differential separately?
     
  12. Spawn_e_git

    Spawn_e_git Funster

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    No dipstick on the gearbox. I measured what came out and filled with the same + 0.5l via the reverse switch.
     
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  13. Tootles

    Tootles Funster

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    The final drive shares the gearbox oil.

    Gearbox Oil:


    Type: Original Handbook 75w/80w GL5 spec

    My preference: 75w90 GL5 spec Semi-synthetic

    Shown in photo for info are:

    • Top: Gearbox/final drive dipstick
    • Lower Left: Final Drive Drain Plug
    • Lower Right: Gearbox Drain Plug
    Note TWO drain plugs. This is due to the baffle that exists between the gearbox and final drive sections to prevent the oil surging under acceleration/braking. The owners handbook states that you must fill the gearbox through the reversing light switch and NOT the dipstick hole otherwise there is a risk of under filling the gearbox as the level in the final drive (where you are measuring it with the dipstick) .

    service2.jpg
     
  14. Tootles

    Tootles Funster

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    Are you sure?? Check the photo for exact location. It's quite hard to see from over the bonnet.
     
  15. Flamenca

    Flamenca Funster Life Member

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    Thanks for the information. I appreciate that the oil is shared but what I am trying to ascertain is whether the level of the oil is above the baffle plate when using the new mark (20mm down) on the dipstick or do you still have to fill the gearbox through the hole for the reversing light switch.
     
  16. Tootles

    Tootles Funster

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    That's the idea. The oil isn't interrupted by the baffle plate using the modified dipstick, allowing it to form a level. Also, no seals are put at risk by increasing the oil. The baffle still does its job in stopping oil surge.
    The rule(s) seem to be.......
    Allow at least 20 minuets running from cold before engaging 5th gear, and never allow the vehicle to drop below 50 MPH in 5th. I have had this modification now for about 4000 miles, all fine, and no leaks.
    This gearbox can be prone to leaks from the speedo cable housing, but it's cheap and easy to fix. (y)

    Yes I would, just to be sure.
     
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  17. Spawn_e_git

    Spawn_e_git Funster

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    Se
    Searched everywhere for it from underneath as well. Never found dipstick and only found one drain plug. So I assumed it was the other type gearbox.
     
  18. dave newell lvs

    dave newell lvs Trader-Vehicle Services

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    Dipsticks were only fitted to the MK1 Ducato AKA Talbot Express which ceased production in 1994. Any Ducato/Boxer/Relay after that does not have a gearbox dipstick.

    D.
     
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  19. Tootles

    Tootles Funster

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    Thanks for that Dave. (y) (y) I have been told that the early gearbox was fitted to a multitude of engines, (petrol and diesel), would it also fit the post '94 engines, (2.5 and TD), or was the unit on the later stuff fundamentally different? Would it be possible to retro fit the post '94 box to the early engine??
     
  20. dave newell lvs

    dave newell lvs Trader-Vehicle Services

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    "Would it be possible to retro fit the post '94 box to the early engine??"

    Not certain but probably do-able. Not really a worthwhile conversion though as they continued to have troubles with fifth gear until about 2002/2003 when the facelifted model came out with the revised gearbox (reverse left and forward rather than right and back). Most important is to make sure the scuttle and heater drain pipes do not fall onto the gearchange linkage at the box because that leads to water in the box and is a sure route to disaster.

    D.
     
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