1995 boxer 350 LWB diesel cab heater

Discussion in 'Tech/Mech General' started by g4jnw, Apr 19, 2013.

  1. g4jnw

    g4jnw Read Only Funster

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    Im stumped a little, the cab heater is blowing on setting 4 only but cold not hot, i realise the resistor could be faulty as far as only working on 4 (setting 4 is bypassing the resistor) haven't managed to get hold of one yet - but thats not the problem - The van had a new heater matrix 30k miles ago. We have only had the van 2 weeks but just been on a 100 mile run and the heater is still cold, what else could i look at?

    The temp gauge rises quite nicely to half way and hold the temp ok.
     
  2. chaser

    chaser Funster

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    Sounds like an airlock
     
  3. g4jnw

    g4jnw Read Only Funster

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    Surely should have cleared after 100 miles, once had an airlock in an old car and the temp fluctuated quite a lot, the temp stuck to half on the van as soon as it warmed up.
     
  4. rainbow chasers

    rainbow chasers Read Only Funster

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    I agree, probably and airlock in the matrix - the french engines have always been a pig to bleed - they can take ages!

    Pop the cap and let it run, you can squeeze the pipes to help dislodge the air. You will see bubbles coming up from time to time - worse one I did took about two hours!:Doh:
     
  5. g4jnw

    g4jnw Read Only Funster

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    Thanks both of you will have a go at this over the weekend, recently bought it and it was sorn for about 5 months after returning from Spain but i see 30k miles ago there was a new heater matrix fitted so didn't think it would be that, hopefully its as simple as your advice :Doh:
     
  6. chaser

    chaser Funster

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    That will be it then, if they have had the pipes off to fit the new matrix, should be easy enough, if the squeezing don't do it you might have to take a heater pipe off and wait till it runs solid water , no air then put it back on while its still running out
     
  7. timdownieuk

    timdownieuk Funster

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    As others have said, sounds like an airlock. Regarding your resistor, it may well be just a blown thermal fuse in the resistor pack. These can be replaced much more cheaply (a quid or two to buy on eBay or a lot less if you live near a Maplin/RS type shop.

    Tim
     
  8. CHRI$

    CHRI$ Funster

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    could be the heater control valve has become disconnected,or has been disconnected as they sometimes leak,and some people put in rad weld or similar to cure the leak,but every time you change the control from hot to cold the leak would start again until the rad weld resealed,to get around this problem of it re-leaking some people disconnect the heater control valve leaving it in the cold position or the hot position.
    long time since i fixed one but you will find the control valve on the side of the heater unit drivers side i think? cant remember 100% :Smile:
    forgot to mention! some people bypass the heater matrix altogether after a leak inside the cab area,by joining both heater pipes together under the bonnet.
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2013
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  9. g4jnw

    g4jnw Read Only Funster

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    Thanks Tim can you point me to the correct thermal fuse I live about 20 miles from a Maplin, there are quite a few and all different temperatures http://www.maplin.co.uk/productsearch?criteria=thermal+fuse
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2013
  10. g4jnw

    g4jnw Read Only Funster

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    DAM!!!!

    Looked under the bonnet today after all our discussions, shows you shouldn't take all you are told by the seller as gospel!! - The heater matrix may have been fitted 30k ago but it looks at first sight like its been bypassed as the pipe that should go into it is joined with the other end, its a bit of a give away now i see it as where the join is the pipe comes over the top of the air intake pipe.
    As they were living down in Spain they maybe thought they didn't need it, now am not sure whether to bother myself as we will be using it only though the summer, the easiest way maybe just to get a 12v cab heater but a bit disappointing it was only seeing one of the posts in this thread that made me look :Doh:
     
  11. g4jnw

    g4jnw Read Only Funster

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    forgot to mention! some people bypass the heater matrix altogether after a leak inside the cab area,by joining both heater pipes together under the bonnet.

    Chris this is exactly what they did!!!! :cry:
     
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  12. CHRI$

    CHRI$ Funster

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    JJ taught me every thing i know about vans and fridges:thumb: :Laughing:
     
  13. timdownieuk

    timdownieuk Funster

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    Ideally you should match the rating of the existing fuse. They seem to range from 160 to 230ish in most cars. If you go for 160 you'll probably be erring on the side of caution.

    Note that you can't easily solder these in (you'll blow the fuse) and normally they are spot welded in. Auto electrical places may do this for you. Alternatively, if you cut the old fuse out leaving the full lengths of the old fuses legs behind, you can use the metal insides from a small chocolate block connector to connect the new fuse. (A connector like this http://www.flickr.com/photos/tudedude/3633464329/).

    It's worth checking that there isn't a defect with the ventilation system that might have caused the fuse to blow in the first place. The most stressful thing for the fuse is low fan speed selection with perhaps blocked inlets or outlets leading to the fuse getting cooked.

    HTH.

    Tim
     
  14. timdownieuk

    timdownieuk Funster

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    Bummer. :Sad: I wouldn't waste your time with a 12V heater. They're way too ineffectual to do anything useful.

    As a purchaser of a 1997 motorhome I know all about finding hidden defects. Just keep telling yourself that it's all part of the fun! ;-)
     
  15. g4jnw

    g4jnw Read Only Funster

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    With a view now of not bothering with a 12v heater have taken the bottom section of the dash off, seems silly but I can't find the heater matrix or where it would have been had there been one fitted.
    Searched the net to find out where it actually should be and all i can find is "just found my leaky heater matrix had to remove all the bottom of the interior dash then un bolt the gear stick unbolt the whole heater system disconnect the hoses from the engine bay and wiggle the whole unit out then take the matrix out .it s a pig still got to put it all back again"

    either this guy has got a different year to me or im doing something wrong, mine is a 1995 2.5D NON AC model - the gear lever sits on the dash but i can see behind it once i remove the bottom section of the dash, can't see how to remove the gear lever as there is a rubber gaitor over it that is fixed to a square plastic section.

    Looking through from the side i can't even see where the matrix would be - its starting to drive me mad :cry:
     
  16. CHRI$

    CHRI$ Funster

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    the matrix is inside the heater box you have to remove the whole heater unit to access it:cry:
     
  17. g4jnw

    g4jnw Read Only Funster

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    ok, at least im not going mad, could do with a step by step guide to getting to it,
    I see the heater box which is the big lump of plastic :thumb: thats as far as i go for now i guess.

    At least if i can see the matrix i may be able to decide what to do.

    So the instructions that i found on the net must have been for a later model then?
     
  18. CHRI$

    CHRI$ Funster

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    removing the heater box is a big job,i dont envy you one bit:cry:
    might be an idea to buy a Haynes manual for you model,but i will look see if someone has information on the internet:thumb:
     
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  19. g4jnw

    g4jnw Read Only Funster

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    Thanks Chris, looked for a manual and doesn't look like there is one available but no wonder they bypassed the matrix then
     
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  20. CHRI$

    CHRI$ Funster

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