12v habitation electrics 24v bus

Discussion in 'Tech/Mech General' started by lee52, Nov 2, 2013.

  1. lee52

    lee52 Funster

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    hi just in the middle of refurbing the ole bus, and one of the main jobs is to sort out all the electrics and it looks like it be wired with whatever was to hand

    the habitation side is 12v as per normal and the bus runs 24v so when it comes to charging the 12v leisure batt i can see 3 options but not sure what is best/standard way

    1 relay to charge of one of the bus batts (2x 12v in series so link one to leisure batt via a relay will charge fine)
    2 bus has a 24v to 12v convertor for radio etc... could pinch a fed of that (but not sure on amp rating of the convertor and dont want to cook it)
    3 retro fit a 12v alternator to engine ( so i will have a 24v for main bus batts and a 12v for habitation)

    or is there any other ways
     
  2. Snowbird

    Snowbird Funster Life Member

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    I like 3 best, that should give you a really good charge rate. Then I suppose 1 would work at a pinch,but not as well as 3. 2 in my opinion is a definite no no from what experiences I have had with dropper boxes.
     
  3. hilldweller

    hilldweller Funster Life Member

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    Ebay 230620464901

    Proper job way, don't know if you like this price but you may find one cheaper.
     
  4. lee52

    lee52 Funster

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    2 wasnt a option i was happy i know 1 will work all day long but dont like the idea of havin one batt in parallel just all un balanced loads etc...

    as for 3 need to have a good look at engine for mounting a second alt i know i have a spare pulley on the crank so a case of finding a mounting point to make up a bracket etc...
     
  5. lee52

    lee52 Funster

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    aye tis a proper job and not as much hassle as fitting second alternators etc...

    suppose the avantage of the second alternator is i could have 60a to 100a plus of charging power
     
  6. hilldweller

    hilldweller Funster Life Member

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    That's true.

    Fitting a second alternator and finding the right belt will cause a few swear words I bet.

    I can't get my head round option 1. It would have to be the "lower" one sharing a common ground. But it means you have, say, 200Ah battery in series with a 100Ah ( top ) battery charged in series. All the current for 2 lower batteries goes through the top one - got to be a disaster.
     
  7. FULL TIMER

    FULL TIMER Read Only Funster

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    Last edited: Nov 2, 2013
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  8. vwalan

    vwalan Funster

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  9. FULL TIMER

    FULL TIMER Read Only Funster

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    Durite also quality, catalogue in the van seems to be around £280 inc vat, although the sterling has a lot higher output and only about a tenner dearer
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2013
  10. vwalan

    vwalan Funster

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    your lucky . mines a 2008 price list so well out of date . but good gear .
     
  11. lee52

    lee52 Funster

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    thanks for the ideas i knew there must of been an electronics answer to it
    much more reliable and easier than trying to graft a second alternator to the engine
     
  12. lee52

    lee52 Funster

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    just the bus is undergoing a full refurb I cant afford to put everything in that i want to straight away so trying to plan for the future o while wall boards are of etc.. running cables etc.. for future upgrades
     
  13. lee52

    lee52 Funster

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    what about using a solar regulator controller seen them where they can take upto 50v input and output 12v and regulate charging for batt (might have to use b2b or a relay to disconnect from truck batts when not running

    you can set the float charge values etc.... see how charging amps batt state etc.... you can get a 60a one upto 48v in 12v/24v output 58quid
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2013
  14. FULL TIMER

    FULL TIMER Read Only Funster

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    there is another way, just use a standard 24v split charger such as one of these from Amber Valley http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Amber-Val...Charge-Voltage-Controlled-Relay-/121162638055
    or these from durite http://midsummerenergy.co.uk/buy/battery-chargers-accessories/durite-voltage-sensitive-relay.html
    linked to a 24v leisure battery bank and then use a 24v - 12v voltage dropper to feed a 12v fuse block for your accessories pump, lights and appliances. this is the set up I have at the moment , which ever way you do it if you want to power the fridge whilst on the move you'll have to sort something else out, personally I havn't bothered on mine as it will stay cool enough without power for a good few hours if properly packed and previously cooled. I did mine this way because I already had a 24v Eberspacher heater and a very expensive Sterling battery charger and a couple of 24 -12v droppers, it has all worked well so far. to be honest by the time you bought all the componants it would probably still work out cheaper to go the Battery - Battery charger route
     
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  15. lee52

    lee52 Funster

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    even better i have a spare 40amp 24v/12v dropper so i can just run the two leisure batts in series charge as normal from truck (i have a 24v b2b) then drop to 12v for fuse box then to the habitation elecs BINGO!!! and free as i have all the stuff i need allready the 40amps wil be more than enough all lighting is gonna be led fridge will run on 240v or gas when parked up toilet and water pump begga all power and not continuous
     
  16. FULL TIMER

    FULL TIMER Read Only Funster

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    That's that sorted then, like I said not having the fridge wired to come on when the engine running hasn't been a problem for us but there are way's of sorting it if needed. worth keeping an eye out on ebay as Charles Sterling often offers returned items at very reasonable prices, I picked up a £400 24v battery charger for £75 it was still in the box as new and still in the cellophane unopened,( also got another to keep as a spare) ,and a decent inverter for around £30.
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2013
  17. lee52

    lee52 Funster

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    cant see any reason why i couldnt run the fridge when driving 24v to 12v dropper for the fridge only wired throu a relay so only connects when the engine is running

    just so glad i asked for ideas cos now i have ended up with a nice simple (and cheap cos i have all parts) fix spot on
     
  18. FULL TIMER

    FULL TIMER Read Only Funster

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    No reason at all I just havn't found the need so far, I always work on the logic that simple is best, some of the systems we see in ambulances are unbelievable and totally over the top, could and have achieved the same results with a few relays and fuse boxes.
     
  19. lee52

    lee52 Funster

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    end of the day i want something simple less to go wrong and easy and cheap to fix if i have a prob on the road

    like u say they are over the top my car the horn is even ecu controlled what was wrong with 2 contacts touching together to send power to the horn?. now I press the horn button and i am asking permission from the ecu to sound the bloodly horn lol
     
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