£120 for Habitation Service? (1 Viewer)

[Terry]

Having been in customer servicing of machinery there are those that know what they are doing, and those who think they know, and these are the worst. Have seen some dangerous things done by people who think they know, but common seance should have told them not to do what they have done. Far better to pay and know things are done correctly.

Or better still buy from someone like Johns Cross who give free hab checks for 5 years.

So exactly HOW do you know it has been done correctly ? You have to trust who is doing it and in some cases hope they are not having a bad day or in other cases at a couple of places I know they employ idiots to do the test who I would not trust to oil the hinges in my vanoh:
terry

 

[buttons]

So exactly HOW do you know it has been done correctly ? You have to trust who is doing it and in some cases hope they are not having a bad day or in other cases at a couple of places I know they employ idiots to do the test who I would not trust to oil the hinges in my vanoh:
terry

Absolutely correct terry, and what guaranty do you get from a visual inspection anyway. After three years then your MOT should identify any bits that are hanging off underneath. All these fancy accreditations are just money for the leading bodies and jobs for the boys. We are being hoodwinked and marketed until we have no more to spend then some more.
How did we possibly manage before all these came about. I had caravans and mororhomes for years with just a push on piece of rubber pipe for the gas.
I'm sure that the leading bodies and organisations that have created all this nonsense are as we speak lobbying to make all testing mandatory. :soaobox: Training has huge financial rewards for these organisations.:soaobox:
Someone must agree......:thumb:.

 

[joner8888]

Gas leak = use your nose
Water leak = use your fingers
Oil leak= see it on your drive
Electrical problem= tripped switch rcd
Anything else= common sense:thumb:

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[buttons]

Gas leak = use your nose
Water leak = use your fingers
Oil leak= see it on your drive
Electrical problem= tripped switch rcd
Anything else= common sense:thumb:

Exactly..........

 

[slobadoberbob]

about as simple as it gets

Gas leak = use your nose
Water leak = use your fingers
Oil leak= see it on your drive
Electrical problem= tripped switch rcd
Anything else= common sense:thumb:

When I had my recent 230v problem.. the RCD board tripped.
If I hear the pump kick in (water) when I have no taps open then I know there is a leak.
If there is an LPG leak the alarms would be sounding
I think I would notice an oil leak....

save my £120 for something I need (like fuel)


Bob

 

[motorhomelover]

As bob said it is a rip off

you should be looking at your out fit every time you use it and fix it when it goes wrong the dealers quote habitation check
it you do pay and have one every year will the dealer fix a damp problem free of charge ?? (they should ahve picked it up before it can be seen)
No way they take your money for things that any one can do


like most we get gas equipment serviced (not an expensive exercise)
every one with a caravan/ motorhome should have a damp meter
they are easy to use and not expensive

Duncan at starspangledspanner checks every thing on a full service
why fix it if it is not broken ????

better ways to spend your hard earned lolly maybe on a holiday LOL

I have real all that everyone has said.. I agree with some and do not agree with others. I said early in the thread I have never paid anyone to do a habitation check in 25 years. My leanings are with Buttons on this. Common sense is the answer.

Owning RV's we have LPG tanks that are fixed and we do not layabout with changing bottles. It is a work in progress in a way. I check things every time I use the RV.. Due to construction I do not have to worry about damp issues... (in this case it is an American thing)...

I had an electrical fault as we know at the time of my MOT when a wire mains wire was cut through by a sliding jack (cannot prove it but 99.9999% sure) .. so the mains failed in the RV. I had an electrician come in and check the system.. All OK.. Eddie of VanBitz found the offending wire and carried out repairs. The point is when you know something is wrong you sort it I do not wait a year to have a check.

I have so many alarms on the RV.. if something is wrong I know about it soon enough.

But as Buttons says there are no regulations for me to have a check done and I will spend my hard earned money as I think best and I am sorry that is not for a habitation check that to me (note I said to me) is a rip off.

Bob

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[makems]

So, the general consensus answer to my original questions:
"Yes £120 is a good price, but you're wasting your money anyway"

We use our MH a lot - about 8 months of the year, so I'm concerned about things that wear out or fail gradually or worse, fail with an almighty BANG!
My experience is that if somthing fails, it will be at the most inconvenient time and place imaginable. So avoiding failure rather than waiting for it and then having to deal with it is my preferred route, even if that means spending a few bob.

I'm going back to the outfit concerned to give me a detailed list of what exactly they check. Then I will make up my mind if there's anything on the list I can't sensibly do myself. But I have to bear in mid that I a Numpty where anything mechanical or plumbing related is involved.

Thanks for the input guys - keep it going

 

[MHVirgins]

We had ours done in January this year, by an approved mobile motorhome/caravan servicing chappy He came to the house and it took him over an hour and a half to do it.

It was £170 and will be due to be done again in January next year

Like Gooney, we had to have ours done to maintain the warranty on a new van. The guy who did it saved us having to do an 80 mile round trip to the dealer, so all in all we're quite happy.

 

[buttons]

So, the general consensus answer to my original questions:
"Yes £120 is a good price, but you're wasting your money anyway"
We use our MH a lot - about 8 months of the year, so I'm concerned about things that wear out or fail gradually or worse, fail with an almighty BANG!
My experience is that if somthing fails, it will be at the most inconvenient time and place imaginable. So avoiding failure rather than waiting for it and then having to deal with it is my preferred route, even if that means spending a few bob.
I'm going back to the outfit concerned to give me a detailed list of what exactly they check. Then I will make up my mind if there's anything on the list I can't sensibly do myself. But I have to bear in mid that I a Numpty where anything mechanical or plumbing related is involved.

Thanks for the input guys - keep it going

We can take a horse to the water Makems but we cant make him drink.:rain:

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[Gooney]

Hi Makems
You opened this thread asking if £120 was a good price for a Habitation check, which I think we all agree is a fair price, the thread then swung to did you actually need one, the posters fell into different camps, one included myself, HAD to have the check done to keep the vehicle warranty void.

Some other posters argued they don't need the checks done, but for some reason they don't realise they are paying to have it done anyway in what they refer to as a Full service every year.

Let me explain, If we go back to the warranty terms for a new vehicle you find it is in 2 sections, a cab service to satisfy the needs of the base vehicle manufacturer i.e. Fiat, Peugeot, Ford etc and a habitation check/service to satisfy the needs of the converter, Elddis, Autotrail etc. The term full service covers both these aspects so as you see their servicing costs include the Habitation checks anyway.

Some posters built their own campers and as such felt they were competent enough to perform their own servicing and checks anyway.

The other posters,.........Well forget them!! :thumb:

 

[jhorsf]

I have real all that everyone has said.. I agree with some and do not agree with others. I said early in the thread I have never paid anyone to do a habitation check in 25 years. My leanings are with Buttons on this. Common sense is the answer.

Owning RV's we have LPG tanks that are fixed and we do not layabout with changing bottles. It is a work in progress in a way. I check things every time I use the RV..[HI] Due to construction I do not have to worry about damp issues... (in this case it is an American thing)...[/HI]

I had an electrical fault as we know at the time of my MOT when a wire mains wire was cut through by a sliding jack (cannot prove it but 99.9999% sure) .. so the mains failed in the RV. I had an electrician come in and check the system.. All OK.. Eddie of VanBitz found the offending wire and carried out repairs. The point is when you know something is wrong you sort it I do not wait a year to have a check.

I have so many alarms on the RV.. if something is wrong I know about it soon enough.

But as Buttons says there are no regulations for me to have a check done and I will spend my hard earned money as I think best and I am sorry that is not for a habitation check that to me (note I said to me) is a rip off.

Bob

Bob where on earth did you get the idea that your motorhome could not suffer from leaks in the body due to construction? I would love to hear your explanation for this

 

[Gooney]

Absolutely correct terry, and what guaranty do you get from a visual inspection anyway. After three years then your MOT should identify any bits that are hanging off underneath. All these fancy accreditations are just money for the leading bodies and jobs for the boys. We are being hoodwinked and marketed until we have no more to spend then some more.
How did we possibly manage before all these came about. I had caravans and mororhomes for years with just a push on piece of rubber pipe for the gas.
I'm sure that the leading bodies and organisations that have created all this nonsense are as we speak lobbying to make all testing mandatory. :soaobox: Training has huge financial rewards for these organisations.:soaobox:
Someone must agree......:thumb:.

Bob where on earth did you get the idea that your motorhome could not suffer from leaks in the body due to construction? I would love to hear your explanation for this

I didn't want to bring this up..... But if you google Winnibago roof leaks.............


I also seem to remember a link to U Tube showing the best way to seal the roof's of these American works of art.

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[slobadoberbob]

simples

Bob where on earth did you get the idea that your motorhome could not suffer from leaks in the body due to construction? I would love to hear your explanation for this

The Winnebago is all fibreglass and the roof is a complete single unit... I take it you never saw the film they made of the building of a Winnebago from the ground up.... All based on an ally interlocking frame ... The installation is built in to the panels... MY rear end cap is the best part of 2" thick.. I know I have drilled it to add additional lamps.

No wood in the construction.. No rubber roofs... everything is flanged and sealed...

That is an American thing... totally dry from day one and every day forward... it is not a flimsy Hymer or eurobox... by the way what is a damp meter so easy these days to get a bite


Bob:thumb:

 

[slobadoberbob]

Not so with a Winnebago ASPECT

I didn't want to bring this up..... But if you google Winnibago roof leaks.............


I also seem to remember a link to U Tube showing the best way to seal the roof's of these American works of art.

The Winnebago Aspect and the new breed (last 10 years) have all been made with a solid fibreglass roof.. so it is not an issue these days.

Bob

 

[Minxy]

Just to give my tuppence worth on this - we had to have a habitation service (which included a damp check) as part of our warranty guarantee and it is a good job we did as we've had to have a few things sorted which would have cost much more than the 2 habitation/damp checkes we've had. However as it is now out of warranty, we will only have to have the damp check to keep the water ingress warranty valid, so that's all we'll bother with now.

One thing we did have to make sure of though is that the habitation was carried out by a company 'registered' with the manufacturer (Chausson) so that they could enter the details onto their computerised system to keep the warranty valid. If we had had it done at a non-registered company, regardless of how well it was carried out, the warranty would have been null and void. So, if your MH is still under warranty check very carefully exactly what the manufacturer requirements are BEFORE you go to a 'non-registered' company.

For those who think that even the damp check is a waste of money, I suggest you think again, someone I know on another forum had a European motorhome and he had the checks done as required and wasn't aware of any problems with it, it was only when he came to trade it in at 4 years old that severe damp was discovered - fortunately as he'd done the damp checks it was fully covered under the warranty so the deal still went ahead and he got the price he had originally agreed.

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[jhorsf]

So Bob your roof has no holes in it at all ? no roof vents no lights no skylights? so what use is a one piece roof when it has things SEALED with mastic in it? Sorry Bob your explanation Just like some motorhomes just does not hold water


I just found out Winnebago recommends you check the adhesion of the roof line sealant every 6 MONTHS to keep the warranty

 

[Gooney]

Surely John your not suggesting a change of scope to a little known advert, should now read 23foot 9inch mobile swimming pool with aqua pure filter system.

 

[sedge]

Speaking personally here ... Mark happens to do ours. (CLS) This is because he is Swift approved (as in Warranty LOL); he's just up the road; he comes to our house, does a good job and he doesn't rip you off.

We have a caravan dealers almost opposite our house, we could take it to. (They charge £180 cos I asked last year LOL) Or we could ask Ash. Or we could take it back to whence it came in Northampton, or drive it down to Johns Cross. Or anywhere we wanted. You pays yer money and takes yer choice.

Our choice is to just get it done!

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[JJ]

[HI]The Winnebago is all fibreglass and the roof is a complete single unit...[/HI] I take it you never saw the film they made of the building of a Winnebago from the ground up.... All based on an ally interlocking frame ... The installation is built in to the panels...[HI] MY rear end cap is the best part of 2" thick.. I know I have drilled it to add additional lamps.[/HI]

No wood in the construction.. No rubber roofs... everything is flanged and sealed...

[HI]That is an American thing... totally dry from day one and every day forward.[/HI].. it is not a flimsy Hymer or eurobox... by the way what is a damp meter so easy these days to get a bite


Bob:thumb:

I was feeling a bit peckish and when I looked up I saw what looked like some food dangling from a thin string above me... I thought I would go and have a bite of it...


Bob knows that his "RV" is built better than "Euro boxes" (as he refers to them) so the following piece does not concern him...

Being a little suspicious about the infalliblity of the construction of these RVs I did a quick check... It took me thirty seconds on Google to find this... it might, however, be the only RV in the whole world to have had this problem...

Link Removed

QUESTION:

My problem is a roof water leak. We have a 1991, 32 ft Winnebago. It has a one piece roof and I have caulked the front seam (it is about a half an inch thick) and the awning seam but still the leak persists. It comes in the front above the dash into the cabinets and into the cabinet behind the passenger seat. Can you help?

ANSWER:

It appears the seams you are talking about are the front cap seam and the side roof seam. The only way to do a correct repair is to remove the moldings at these seams (at least one-half of it at the front) and six feet on the side molding. You probably find the caulk beneath the moldings has dried and cracked. The source of your water leak is most likely somewhere at these seams. (I'm assuming your roof is good) Next, you have to remove the roof material and some of the siding (just pull it back) and look for evidence of water ever being there. If this has been going on for any length of time you also have to be concerned about dry rot. Projects such as these can escalate. You want to determine the extent of any possible damage, remove it, rebuild it and then reassemble everything. Sometimes this is best left to the professionals as it must be put back together correctly, resealed, the molding reattached correctly so that the water leak is a thing of the past.




JJ :Cool:

PS... Whoops! the above is not the only case... there seems to be more of them...

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php?topic=22575.0

http://winnebago-industries.pissedc...ust-around-our-windshield-20080229114281.html

 

[jhorsf]

http://winnebago-industries.pissedc...ust-around-our-windshield-20080229114281.html

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25957501/gotomsg/25959948.cfm





http://www.irv2.com/forums/f84/roof-leaks-through-air-conditioner-23745.html

.




sorry Bob but the evidence is overwhelming Winnebago's DO LEAK

 

[jhorsf]

This one is a typical example
http://www.epinions.com/review/auto...ebago_Minnie_Winnie/content_168720961156?sb=1




Read all 1 Reviews | Write a Review
About the Author


Epinions.com ID: tzehner
Reviews written: 1
Trusted by: 0 members

Water Leaks 2000 Minnie Winnie 31C transfer molding
Written: Jan 07 '05
User Rating: Disappointing
Reliability:
Quality :
Handling And Control:
Pros:good floor layout
Cons:roof integrity non existent
I like the features of the slide out and storage, on board generator, floor layout, and general interior quality. However, every year since 8/1999 I've had water leaks from the transfer molding and seams around the cab over. I was able to have Winnebago cover the repair though warranty and a good faith warranty extension. The last two year's repair cost was $864.00 and expected to be $1364.00 this year. Winnebago says it's a 'maintenance' item. An average additional $1000.00 a year is ludicrous!!! This is a design flaw!!! Don't buy a Minnie Winnie if you don't want to see your dealer every year and contribute to his bottom line.....

Recommended: No


Amount Paid (US$): 65000.00
Condition: New
Model Year: 2000
Model and Options: Minnie Winnie 31C




Its not looking good in the case for the defence is it
Bob

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[buttons]

Hi Makems
You opened this thread asking if £120 was a good price for a Habitation check, which I think we all agree is a fair price, the thread then swung to did you actually need one, the posters fell into different camps, one included myself, HAD to have the check done to keep the vehicle warranty void.
Some other posters argued they don't need the checks done, but for some reason they don't realise they are paying to have it done anyway in what they refer to as a Full service every year.
Let me explain, If we go back to the warranty terms for a new vehicle you find it is in 2 sections, a cab service to satisfy the needs of the base vehicle manufacturer i.e. Fiat, Peugeot, Ford etc and a habitation check/service to satisfy the needs of the converter, Elddis, Autotrail etc. The term full service covers both these aspects so as you see their servicing costs include the Habitation checks anyway.
Some posters built their own campers and as such felt they were competent enough to perform their own servicing and checks anyway.
[HI]The other posters,.........Well forget them!! [/HI]:thumb:

Before you forget me Gooney could I ask just one question...........As a time served craftsman albeit retired, will you continue to have your yearly habitation service done when you warranted expires or will you rely on your own engineering brain to constantly monitor using Joner8888 5 point plan plus.:thumb:

A habitation check if you are very lucky will advise that you have little to worry about on Jan 1st what about Jan 2nd a lot can happen overnight. Ask the crew of the Titanic :helptitanic:
You say you are a time server mechanical fitter, probably served 5/6 years to reach that panicle followed by a further 40 years of experience. What is the minimum time spent to achieve some of these fancy new accreditations required to charge you £120 for a habitation check?

I can understand less aware owners being swayed by fear tactics and heavy marketing but not someone with your own credentials surely.
Constant monitoring:youbetcha:
Gas leak = use your nose
Water leak = use your fingers
Oil leak= see it on your drive
Electrical problem= tripped switch rcd
Anything else= common sense
Damp= use a meter

 

[Gooney]

[HI]Before you forget me Gooney could I ask just one question[/HI]...........As a time served craftsman albeit retired, will you continue to have your yearly habitation service done when you warranted expires or will you rely on your own engineering brain to constantly monitor using Joner8888 5 point plan plus.:thumb:

A habitation check if you are very lucky will advise that you have little to worry about on Jan 1st what about Jan 2nd a lot can happen overnight. Ask the crew of the Titanic :helptitanic:
You say you are a time server mechanical fitter, probably served 5/6 years to reach that panicle followed by a further 40 years of experience. What is the minimum time spent to achieve some of these fancy new accreditations required to charge you £120 for a habitation check?

I can understand less aware owners being swayed by fear tactics and heavy marketing but not someone with your own credentials surely.
Constant monitoring:youbetcha:
Gas leak = use your nose
Water leak = use your fingers
Oil leak= see it on your drive
Electrical problem= tripped switch rcd
Anything else= common sense
Damp= use a meter

Who said that?

As you rightly point out Buttons I do have an engineering brain and as such Jonners plan is second nature to me, yes maintaining the manufacturers warranty is a big incentive to have the hab checks done.

Will I carry on after the warranty period expires?
I do have the knowledge and experience to maintain my vehicle, capability is questionable, without harping on about it, a disability inhibits this, but more to the point I may as well pay £130 per year for some one who's work I am capable of and have assessed as being a more than competent and reliable engineer to do it for me without having to purchase any more tools for my already loaded garage.
I will concede though, out of warranty I would probably follow Loujess's lead and have a bi-annual formal hab check/service, Oh, and as far as the cab service goes that will go to a local small garage NOT the main dealer.

 

[darklord]

What you get on a "hab check" and what you think you get, may be worlds apart.

MY idea of a hab check, is getting the gas/boiler system checked, the 12v electric side, including charging and state of batteries etc, the 240v side of things (by someone qualified to check 240v electrics) and again charging system, and equally as important, a damp test complete with \"map" of areas checked and readings in those areas. Someone recrently had servicing done by a dealer that eneded up with serious damp problems that should have been picked up long before they were.
I would also like the toilet and waste systems checked, tanks checked for leakage along with all taps and inlets, as well as window and door seals, vent seals and security. I would also like the outside "sdeals" checked, and every couple or three years, would have them removed and resealed.
This is along with all the mundane other stuff, anyone who could,nt do it, would,nt get my business.........and to be honest, anyone who chsrged £120, certainly would,nt, to me, its a days work, so should incur a days wages by a competant and proficient person, plus his/her travelling expenses etc, or admin etc if at a dealer.
Remember, a hab test is like an MOT, only good for the day it is done, BUT if you incurred a problem after it was done, i would think you would like to be having a chat with whoever did it?

As for van servicing............I,l not start on that, apart from to remind you to make sure your towbar and electrics are checked and in good order, especially if you have thriteen pin plugs.:thumb:

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