12v habitation electrics 24v bus (1 Viewer)

[lee52]

hi just in the middle of refurbing the ole bus, and one of the main jobs is to sort out all the electrics and it looks like it be wired with whatever was to hand

the habitation side is 12v as per normal and the bus runs 24v so when it comes to charging the 12v leisure batt i can see 3 options but not sure what is best/standard way

1 relay to charge of one of the bus batts (2x 12v in series so link one to leisure batt via a relay will charge fine)
2 bus has a 24v to 12v convertor for radio etc... could pinch a fed of that (but not sure on amp rating of the convertor and dont want to cook it)
3 retro fit a 12v alternator to engine ( so i will have a 24v for main bus batts and a 12v for habitation)

or is there any other ways

 

[Snowbird]

I like 3 best, that should give you a really good charge rate. Then I suppose 1 would work at a pinch,but not as well as 3. 2 in my opinion is a definite no no from what experiences I have had with dropper boxes.

 

[hilldweller]

Ebay 230620464901

Proper job way, don't know if you like this price but you may find one cheaper.

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[lee52]

I like 3 best, that should give you a really good charge rate. Then I suppose 1 would work at a pinch,but not as well as 3. 2 in my opinion is a definite no no from what experiences I have had with dropper boxes.

2 wasnt a option i was happy i know 1 will work all day long but dont like the idea of havin one batt in parallel just all un balanced loads etc...

as for 3 need to have a good look at engine for mounting a second alt i know i have a spare pulley on the crank so a case of finding a mounting point to make up a bracket etc...

 

[lee52]

Ebay 230620464901

Proper job way, don't know if you like this price but you may find one cheaper.

aye tis a proper job and not as much hassle as fitting second alternators etc...

suppose the avantage of the second alternator is i could have 60a to 100a plus of charging power

 

[hilldweller]

suppose the avantage of the second alternator is i could have 60a to 100a plus of charging power

That's true.

Fitting a second alternator and finding the right belt will cause a few swear words I bet.

I can't get my head round option 1. It would have to be the "lower" one sharing a common ground. But it means you have, say, 200Ah battery in series with a 100Ah ( top ) battery charged in series. All the current for 2 lower batteries goes through the top one - got to be a disaster.

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[FULL TIMER]

easy, sterling 24v - 12v battery to battery charger http://www.sp-shop.co.uk/Sterling-Power-Battery-to-Battery-24v-12v-25A-PN-BB241250.html a proper quality job

 

[vwalan]

or get a durite battery to battery 24v to 12v charger . i have had one for years .in fact all my mates use them now .Link Removed
no prices but i,m sure you can gert a good price .
really easy to fit as well.

 

[FULL TIMER]

Durite also quality, catalogue in the van seems to be around £280 inc vat, although the sterling has a lot higher output and only about a tenner dearer

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[vwalan]

your lucky . mines a 2008 price list so well out of date . but good gear .

 

[lee52]

thanks for the ideas i knew there must of been an electronics answer to it
much more reliable and easier than trying to graft a second alternator to the engine

 

[lee52]

just the bus is undergoing a full refurb I cant afford to put everything in that i want to straight away so trying to plan for the future o while wall boards are of etc.. running cables etc.. for future upgrades

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[lee52]

what about using a solar regulator controller seen them where they can take upto 50v input and output 12v and regulate charging for batt (might have to use b2b or a relay to disconnect from truck batts when not running

you can set the float charge values etc.... see how charging amps batt state etc.... you can get a 60a one upto 48v in 12v/24v output 58quid

 

[FULL TIMER]

there is another way, just use a standard 24v split charger such as one of these from Amber Valley http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Amber-Val...Charge-Voltage-Controlled-Relay-/121162638055
or these from durite http://midsummerenergy.co.uk/buy/battery-chargers-accessories/durite-voltage-sensitive-relay.html
linked to a 24v leisure battery bank and then use a 24v - 12v voltage dropper to feed a 12v fuse block for your accessories pump, lights and appliances. this is the set up I have at the moment , which ever way you do it if you want to power the fridge whilst on the move you'll have to sort something else out, personally I havn't bothered on mine as it will stay cool enough without power for a good few hours if properly packed and previously cooled. I did mine this way because I already had a 24v Eberspacher heater and a very expensive Sterling battery charger and a couple of 24 -12v droppers, it has all worked well so far. to be honest by the time you bought all the componants it would probably still work out cheaper to go the Battery - Battery charger route

 

[lee52]

there is another way, just use a standard 24v split charger such as one of these from Amber Valley http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Amber-Val...Charge-Voltage-Controlled-Relay-/121162638055
or these from durite http://midsummerenergy.co.uk/buy/battery-chargers-accessories/durite-voltage-sensitive-relay.html
linked to a 24v leisure battery bank and then use a 24v - 12v voltage dropper to feed a 12v fuse block for your accessories pump, lights and appliances. this is the set up I have at the moment , which ever way you do it if you want to power the fridge whilst on the move you'll have to sort something else out, personally I havn't bothered on mine as it will stay cool enough without power for a good few hours if properly packed and previously cooled. I did mine this way because I already had a 24v Eberspacher heater and a very expensive Sterling battery charger and a couple of 24 -12v droppers, it has all worked well so far. to be honest by the time you bought all the componants it would probably still work out cheaper to go the Battery - Battery charger route

even better i have a spare 40amp 24v/12v dropper so i can just run the two leisure batts in series charge as normal from truck (i have a 24v b2b) then drop to 12v for fuse box then to the habitation elecs BINGO!!! and free as i have all the stuff i need allready the 40amps wil be more than enough all lighting is gonna be led fridge will run on 240v or gas when parked up toilet and water pump begga all power and not continuous

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[FULL TIMER]

That's that sorted then, like I said not having the fridge wired to come on when the engine running hasn't been a problem for us but there are way's of sorting it if needed. worth keeping an eye out on ebay as Charles Sterling often offers returned items at very reasonable prices, I picked up a £400 24v battery charger for £75 it was still in the box as new and still in the cellophane unopened,( also got another to keep as a spare) ,and a decent inverter for around £30.

 

[lee52]

That's that sorted then, like I said not having the fridge wired to come on when the engine running hasn't been a problem for us but there are way's of sorting it if needed. worth keeping an eye out on ebay as Charles Sterling often offers returned items at very reasonable prices, I picked up a £400 24v battery charger for £75 it was still in the box as new and still in the cellophane unopened,( also got another to keep as a spare) ,and a decent inverter for around £30.

cant see any reason why i couldnt run the fridge when driving 24v to 12v dropper for the fridge only wired throu a relay so only connects when the engine is running

just so glad i asked for ideas cos now i have ended up with a nice simple (and cheap cos i have all parts) fix spot on

 

[FULL TIMER]

cant see any reason why i couldnt run the fridge when driving 24v to 12v dropper for the fridge only wired throu a relay so only connects when the engine is running

just so glad i asked for ideas cos now i have ended up with a nice simple (and cheap cos i have all parts) fix spot on

No reason at all I just havn't found the need so far, I always work on the logic that simple is best, some of the systems we see in ambulances are unbelievable and totally over the top, could and have achieved the same results with a few relays and fuse boxes.

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[lee52]

No reason at all I just havn't found the need so far, I always work on the logic that simple is best, some of the systems we see in ambulances are unbelievable and totally over the top, could and have achieved the same results with a few relays and fuse boxes.

end of the day i want something simple less to go wrong and easy and cheap to fix if i have a prob on the road

like u say they are over the top my car the horn is even ecu controlled what was wrong with 2 contacts touching together to send power to the horn?. now I press the horn button and i am asking permission from the ecu to sound the bloodly horn lol